Gearbox Mount How to Guide

Daniel M

Blackbelts & Chickenheads
Apr 18, 2013
2,874
7
Middlesbrough
I changed my gearbox mount yesterday and thought I would do a how to guide whilst I was at it.

Tools required.

Ramps/Jacks
T20 Torx bit
10mm socket/spanner
13mm socket/spanner
16mm socket/spanner
18mm socket/spanner
Phillips screwdriver
Allen/hex bit (forgot to check the size, think either 6-8mm)

Gearbox mount (will add part number)

To begin with you need to either jack the car up or stick it on the ramps to gain access to the under tray. There should be 12 torx bolts holding the undertray on unless like mine a couple of them have snapped off over the years.



Next job is to take the car off the jack/ramps and open the bonnet then proceed by disconnecting the battery using your 10mm socket/spanner.

Once the battery is disconnected you can proceed by taking the air feed off the airbox. This just unclips and comes away in 2-3 bits. Mine rattles like a bi*ch hence the double sided tape on it.







Now that the air feed is out of the way you can remove the battery to gain better access to the airbox bolts.

Remove the cheap cover from around the battery (unless you have a battery box).



Next there is a 13mm bolt that holds the battery down, undo this and the battery should lift out of the tray.



There are some bolts that attach the airbox to the battery tray, one is an allen/hex bolt. The others are quite obvious to see hence why I haven't taken detailed pics of them.

Next you want to undo the two screws which attach the airbox to the MAF sensor. This is where you'll need your phillips screwdriver. The MAF should pull away from the airbox.

The airbox is held onto the battery tray with two rubber prongs (these can be stiff so watch you don't hit yourself in the face when pulling them free).



Once they are free the airbox can be removed.



Next job is to undo the two bolts seen here on the battery tray.





The battery tray can now be removed.



You will now have access to the gearbox mount. Before you attack the bolts you must support the gearbox by using a jack to take the weight.



I made the mistake of jacking it up too close to the front of the box, so make sure its further back towards the middle.

You now want to undo the 3 18mm bolts you can see here.





Next there are 4 16mm bolts under the wiring harness/trunking. The trunking just clips out of place so it can be moved from side to side. See below.



Once all 7 bolts are free the mount can be removed.



New and old mount side by side



And the mounts themselves

Old


New


Place the new mount in place and secure with a couple of the 16mm bolts. The mount wont line up straight away so you'll need to lower/raise the gearbox as needed.

Once this is done replace the remaining bolts.



Then refit the battery tray, airbox, air feed, battery and undertray.

Take it for a spin and feel the difference.
 

chr1sd

Active Member
Mar 16, 2014
364
1
Newcastle Upon Tyne
Did you replace the bolts? the 4 holding the mount to the chassis leg arent really critical as if they snap the engine / box cant really go anywhere. The other three should be replaced though.
 

Daniel M

Blackbelts & Chickenheads
Apr 18, 2013
2,874
7
Middlesbrough
Did you replace the bolts? the 4 holding the mount to the chassis leg arent really critical as if they snap the engine / box cant really go anywhere. The other three should be replaced though.

No I didn't as they were like new and wouldn't ever see them snapping. I can understand why people would but I honestly feel very comfortable re-using the old ones.
 

chr1sd

Active Member
Mar 16, 2014
364
1
Newcastle Upon Tyne
No I didn't as they were like new and wouldn't ever see them snapping. I can understand why people would but I honestly feel very comfortable re-using the old ones.

In my experience you rarely need to replace engine and gearbox mounting bolts. I would only ever do so myself if one had actually already snapped.

they are torque to yield bolts and workshop manual states they should be replaced. Theres plenty of examples of VAG cars where the bolts fail due to being reused, and theres even a guy on here whos snapped on the other side, after the garage resued them after his timing belt change. For the sake of £10 for the 3 bolts, id replace them, not worth the risk of your oil sump hitting the motorway at 70mph. Just trying to help.
 
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