Help! Bottom end / oil strainer probs

[B2daV]

I know im a newbie but as I think I have a major problem on my hands I wanted to get a bit of an idea of what people think this problem may be please? I've got a Leon Cupra R 225 (running a stage 1 remap approx 260bhp + 300 lb/ft torque) which has developed some bottom end problems...

On acceleration I started hearing a very slight knocking noise and it heard like it was coming from the bottom end, the noise wasn't loud at all but then the oil warning light came on so shut off the engine and coasted to a stop.

On inspection I had taken the sump off to find some sump gasket maker and what I later found out to be bottom end bearing "filings" within the oil strainer! When stripping the bottom end I started underneath cylinder one and found that the oil lubrication hole n the bearings had been skimmed over where the bearing looks like it's got hot and spun with the crank? Also, putting a fault reader on the car it was coming up with misfire on cylinder one...?

I've been told that the damage has probibally been caused by low oil pressures due to the strainer blockage, would it cause this much damage and or would there be any other reasoning behind the problems I have been experiencing?

I wanted to make sure I have covered all the possible problems faults along with any other things I should look out for (or upgrade) whilst stripped for a long term fix?

Any coments or feedback would be much appreciated!

 

[badboybunty]

i have heard that all 1.8t suffer from oil strainer problems and should be done for saftey every 40k or so i replaced mine on my mk4 golf the day i had it

it has not had a recent service where someone has used oil flush i here its the worst thing to do to a 1.8t and can block the strainer

i would say the strainer has blocked causing oil pump failure

so get a new pump out of course and new strainer and gaskets wouldnt say anything else has caused this

 

[B2daV]

Thanks for the reply bud, if anyone else could shed some light it would be appreciated too...

Would it be worth testing the oil pressure on gauge first before the possibility of a new pump too? Oil is getting to the top too but havn't tested for pressure yet. If so, do you have an idea of what pressure it should be hitting?

The crank doesnt look damaged at all so hopefully should it be okay with just bearings, oil pump if required (can this be replaced from the bottom?) and strainer would you have thought?

 

[badboybunty]

Thanks for the reply bud, if anyone else could shed some light it would be appreciated too...

Would it be worth testing the oil pressure on gauge first before the possibility of a new pump too? Oil is getting to the top too but havn't tested for pressure yet. If so, do you have an idea of what pressure it should be hitting?

The crank doesnt look damaged at all so hopefully should it be okay with just bearings, oil pump if required (can this be replaced from the bottom?) and strainer would you have thought?

never done a oil pump on a 1.8 t but hopefully someone will tell you how to do it but would just replace it as matter of course to be honest

have u took the big end caps off to inspect as crank may look fine but could be wear to shells and a scorn crank undernieath if so crank will have to come out if not to bad polished and have shells made to required spec

engine might have to come out tbh its not a stage that u want miss as might cause premuture engine failure in the future

im not a engine builder only built one engine for a t16 rover turbo but have to be carefull and dont miss a step

 

[big rich]

Usually the reason for oil pressure issues is the gauze in the pick up pipe gets blocked up with carbonised oil deposits, surprised your turbos not fooked if your bottom ends fooked.

 

[Applemobile]

Can all be done from underneath. I would pop a main cap off whilst your there just to check.

 

[badboybunty]

also what oil was you using in it???

should not be semi synthetic this can get hot and form as deposits in the engine which block the strainer

 

[Ronin225]

Pics from an S3 loss of lubrication as car was overdue service

 

[Dan1720v]

If its spun a bearing which it sounds like it has if it's heated the crank/rod to the point of going discoloured, look for a new engine IMO.

 

[Muttley]

There have been several reports on the forum of oil strainer blockage,sometimes leading to engine failure. I wouldn't say it was a common problem, but it is high-profile (because of the catastrophic effects) so even a few instances are worrying.

I've seen some reports that the sump gasket material can be part of the problem, and you (B2daV that is) found gasket material in your strainer.

Apparently applying too much liquid gasket when replacing the sump causes the excess to get squeezed out in blobs on the inside of the joint. These then get baked hard by the engine, drop off and get drawn to the strainer, where they are just sticky and soft enough to stick and cause blockage.

To avoid it happening again, only apply a 2-3mm continuous bead around the center of the sump joint line, looping to the inside of each bolt hole.

You've had lubrication failure leading to a partial seize of the bottom end. You need to check the main bearings, camshafts, pistons and the turbo as well, as all will have suffered poor lubrication leading up to the failure. As Dan says, it may be better to look for another engine.

 

[grahams81]

If you've spun the Big end bearings then you need to be careful. The heat that is quickly generated when the bearing picks up normally distorts the con rod caps - they may appear to be ok but may have pulled oval due to the heat, same applies to Main Bearings - if working on the engine in the car remove one main at a time and check for sign's of wear / picking up.

You'll also need to double check the journals on the crank.

Like already said, it may be easier to replace the engine.

It really depends on how handy you are, if you can rebuild it yourself or have good friends etc then the cheapest would be to rebuild it....... and you'd also know it's good (second hand engines could be no good - you don't know if the seller is legit or dodgy)

If the big end has spun and knackered the con rod i would advise just binning them and getting some forged con rods - there's plenty of them that fail on remapped LCR's

Add a full set of bearings, con rods, Head bolts & Gasket set, Main Bearing Bolts, new oil pump & strainer (cheap insurance when building a new engine)

Maybe piston rings (measure the ring end gaps in the bores and check the specs) and your good for life.

And as for the sump sealant 2-3mm bead is far too much, the workshop manual says between 1.0mm and 1.5mm...... Too much will cause failure again.

Good luck.

 

[Muttley]

Elsawin says 2-3mm. So does Haynes (Golf 4 manuals). Agreed that sounds a lot. Also says to let it set for 30 minutes before refilling with oil.