Hesistation on part throttle...

[xd-data-ii]

Yeah, fair enough ..... assuming disconnecting the battery does clear the fault codes

 

[traumapat]

if its deffo the prob the fault will reappear. huge difference with maf unplugged?

 

[Mr OCD]

Yeah, fair enough ..... assuming disconnecting the battery does clear the fault codes

Good point actually ... I will try clearing the faults with VAGCOM in a moment

 

[Mr OCD]

if its deffo the prob the fault will reappear. huge difference with maf unplugged?

Nope... car seems to run fine although still stuttering / hesistating under partial throttle...

 

[Mr OCD]

Now thats interesting... also got this code that just looked up:

18010/P1602/005634 - Power Supply B+ Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
Possible Causes
Cables on the Battery were removed
Battery weak (voltage)
Generator Disfunction
Possible Solutions
Check Battery Cables
Check/Replace Battery
Check/Replace Generator

So I am wondering if disconnecting the battery didnt actually clear the codes as disconnecting it has shown up a code for doing this!?

 

[traumapat]

ive gotten away with it before... just left terminal 30 as the only fault.

vag com is the right way to clear the codes. ideally.

strange unplugging the maf made no difference. youd expect it to if its logging a fault? unless it is still thinking it cant trust the maf readings.


id clear all codes preferbly with vag com. and see how it runs. if doing this without engine running , just ignition on it cant fault the maf. check the ecu is clear. then go for a drive. anything then showing is a new fault.

 

[Mr OCD]

Ok ... all faults cleared...

I'm going to drive it to work tommorrow instead of using the bike and will take vagcom lead with me so can read when get to work... see what happens then.

I'm also going to buy the full version software as would like to start logging...

 

[Mr OCD]

Checked this morning when got to work after a 35 mile drive including a few blats through the gears ... no codes evident.

 

[Mr OCD]

Update

Car rolling roaded today...

180bhp... 202lbft torque

Pants for a remapped car that should be 210bhp / 220lbft...

Operator said fuelling is very good if a little rich but he says its not boosting properly... the graph shows this ... he says its the 'boost switch'... not entirely sure what he is on about but seemed to know his stuff

Tried to get the map sensor off to clean it and cant shift it ... looks as though the SMIC will need to come out - hard job to remove?

Not entirely sure where to go from here...

 

[traumapat]

ok . time line.

you noticed a blip around 2500rpm.

unplugging maf made blip lessen alot.

replaced maf. did it then drive as smoothly as it previously did unplugged?

the remap. do you have agraph from when the car was mapped? do you know for certain it should be 200+? i realise it was a family member so should be easy to find out what figure it should be. youve kinda said that on full throttle the cars fine. its quite a power loss , are you suprised you didnt notice it? saying this as rr`s can be vary variable results wise.

can you post your latest rr graph showing the 180?

ive no experience of n75 faults. worth a search.

are you able to do actual logs with your version of vagcom?

 

[Mr OCD]

ok . time line.

you noticed a blip around 2500rpm.

unplugging maf made blip lessen alot.

replaced maf. did it then drive as smoothly as it previously did unplugged?

the remap. do you have agraph from when the car was mapped? do you know for certain it should be 200+? i realise it was a family member so should be easy to find out what figure it should be. youve kinda said that on full throttle the cars fine. its quite a power loss , are you suprised you didnt notice it? saying this as rr`s can be vary variable results wise.

can you post your latest rr graph showing the 180?

ive no experience of n75 faults. worth a search.

are you able to do actual logs with your version of vagcom?

Ok... replacing MAF made the car much smoother and better on fuel too ... so that was one fault.

I dont have a graph from when the car was mapped as it wasnt rolling roaded. Car was mapped by my cousin and says its a 212/221 map for the LC and should be 5bhp/5lbft either side of that figure. So it certainly should be 200bhp + ...

I've never noticed it as probably havent had full power since remap

I have latest RR graph ... its in the car at moment and Wife has it so will post it up later once scanned.

Latest developments is that there is a CLEAR flat spot between 3000-4000rpm. It comes on full boost around 2500rpm... accelerates fine with foot to the floor but power seems to drop off around 3000-4000rpm and this is clearly shown on the RR graph with a dip of both bhp / torque in this area before it starts to rise again.

Operator said problem with it holding boost - I am going to put a boost guage on it this week... what boost should it run on remap?

Anyone got a stage one mapped RR graph so I can compare my graph curves?

Checked the MAF today on way home when Wife driving logging the MAF on VAGCOM and getting excellent readings of 200gs ... so its fine.

So its a boost problem ... I'm 99.9% certain that boost is dropping off ... the car seems to be struggling controlling the boost...

So looking into how the boost system works we have the dump valve, boost controller (N75), N249(Regulates N75) and the MAP sensor... anything else?

I want to remove the MAP sensor and clean it but cant get it out - I'm going to need to remove the SMIC ... easy job?

Whats the sensor under manifold at front of car?

 

[traumapat]

Ok... replacing MAF made the car much smoother and better on fuel too ... so that was one fault.

I dont have a graph from when the car was mapped as it wasnt rolling roaded. Car was mapped by my cousin and says its a 212/221 map for the LC and should be 5bhp/5lbft either side of that figure. So it certainly should be 200bhp + ...

I've never noticed it as probably havent had full power since remap

I have latest RR graph ... its in the car at moment and Wife has it so will post it up later once scanned.

Latest developments is that there is a CLEAR flat spot between 3000-4000rpm. It comes on full boost around 2500rpm... accelerates fine with foot to the floor but power seems to drop off around 3000-4000rpm and this is clearly shown on the RR graph with a dip of both bhp / torque in this area before it starts to rise again.

Operator said problem with it holding boost - I am going to put a boost guage on it this week... what boost should it run on remap?

Anyone got a stage one mapped RR graph so I can compare my graph curves?

Checked the MAF today on way home when Wife driving logging the MAF on VAGCOM and getting excellent readings of 200gs ... so its fine.

So its a boost problem ... I'm 99.9% certain that boost is dropping off ... the car seems to be struggling controlling the boost...

So looking into how the boost system works we have the dump valve, boost controller (N75), N249(Regulates N75) and the MAP sensor... anything else?

I want to remove the MAP sensor and clean it but cant get it out - I'm going to need to remove the SMIC ... easy job?

Whats the sensor under manifold at front of car?

your getting there.

map estimations sound honest.. although judging by rr experiences on here id give 10bhp either way. dyno lottery

at least youve had the flat spot confirmed on a graph. if i can find my stage 2 i`ll post it... the shape should be fairly similar.. might be some stage 1 plots posted on r rides section?

i cant remember stage 1 boost? 11 psi?

stock dv can split. known weakness on early cars... worsening on remapping..

possibility? most upgrade their dv even if not remapping.

if you look at the knowledge base on the main site theres info on removing front bumper... hopefully you wont have to... but the pics should give you an idea ... failing that forges website do a downloadable instruction on fitting their fmic... again helpful.


theres a way of testing forge piston dvs that should work on any? if you stick a pen or similar inside pushing the diaphram up, then cover the small top hole with your finger and release the pen. there should be a couple of mm drop in the diaphram and then it should hold under vaccuum.

be careful not to damage the diaphram.

 

[Mr OCD]

Rolling Road Graph

Its a bit faint but thats how it was printed out ...

 

[Mr OCD]

your getting there.

map estimations sound honest.. although judging by rr experiences on here id give 10bhp either way. dyno lottery

at least youve had the flat spot confirmed on a graph. if i can find my stage 2 i`ll post it... the shape should be fairly similar.. might be some stage 1 plots posted on r rides section?

i cant remember stage 1 boost? 11 psi?

stock dv can split. known weakness on early cars... worsening on remapping..

possibility? most upgrade their dv even if not remapping.

if you look at the knowledge base on the main site theres info on removing front bumper... hopefully you wont have to... but the pics should give you an idea ... failing that forges website do a downloadable instruction on fitting their fmic... again helpful.


theres a way of testing forge piston dvs that should work on any? if you stick a pen or similar inside pushing the diaphram up, then cover the small top hole with your finger and release the pen. there should be a couple of mm drop in the diaphram and then it should hold under vaccuum.

be careful not to damage the diaphram.

Aye slowly...

Agreed but I would be hoping to see at least 200bhp... 181bhp is low... very low. The torque isnt too bad though... if could sort the flat spot I'd be happy with the performance regardless of the figures.

I thought standard boost was 10psi? - I want to log boost on vagcom but need full software edition to do that apparently and require a serial number

Would a brand new OE BOSCH DV be ok for replacement or does it need to be an upgraded one? I hate the 'chav' dump valve noise - brand new OE's are also very cheap.

The bumper has to come off for SMIC removal?

 

[Mr OCD]

Bumper removal is easy ...should be able to do it in twenty mins I reckon so thats a job for tommorrow night to remove the SMIC / Map sensor and clean out

Can you check map sensor in VAGCOM logs at all ?

 

[srherman]

Can anyone advise me on how to get rid of my bloody flat spot on tolly V5 170bhp, it happens at approx 3200rpm. so annoying.

 

[gezmeister]

Can anyone advise me on how to get rid of my bloody flat spot on tolly V5 170bhp, it happens at approx 3200rpm. so annoying.

Try posting in the toledo section mate, might get a better response

 

[Cowie]

my leon occasionally seems to hesitate at around 3k rpm. like its hit the power required and stops producing more. it feels like a soft jolt.

its always done this and its more pronouced now the cars running more power.


however reading your description im confused. my problem when the throttle is held at a certain point... for me around 3k. you seem to be saying its when you lift off the power... wouldnt that be natural? turbo starts spinning and producing boost and just when its ready you request less so it dumps the built up boost? thus hesitation... or at least the sensation?

That's pretty much what I have with mine pat,am thinking its a boost leak issue waiting for bits to test so will see.

just saw how old this thread is!!!!!! lol

 

[TubbyTwo]

mine does this as well, very annoying, but put it down to the crappy DBW throttle.

poor design, slightest lift of you foot and it jolts.

 

[mt audio]

I have had this problem for bloody ages-atleast 6 months and just gave up on it then all of a sudden the other week I had a massive jerk and it was back to it's old self. And throttle response was then immediate. However had to d/c battery the other day for unrelated issue but now back to how it was and now I'm determined to sort. 2.5k rpm just takes ages to spool up and then hesitation constantly. Had a service since including plugs and fuel filter and still not any better. My mpg is also crap. I struggle to get in the 30mpg figures and don't see much more than 300 to a tank and used to see 330-360 to a tank so clearly I have something up.
I have had all new
Coilpacks
Plugs
Fuel filter
Oil and oil filter
Air filter is green cotton one so no probs there.
Maf was replaced last year too.
No fault codes either
I'm adamant we can get to the source of the problem the more people we have involved listing what they have replaced

Matt