Intercooler lower boost pipe

benuk

Active Member
Dec 12, 2008
271
0
UK
The lower intercooler boost pope poped off yesterday during acceleration changing between 3rd and 4th. :shrug:

I reconnected it (pushed it back in), its obviously a weak point :cartman:. I used a couple of cable ties to try and hold it in place a bit better. I thought about jubilee clips, but I couldn't see a way of using it with the pipe as they are not soft.

Anyone improved the security of this joint DIY.. got any pics to post / guide? Or is the only way to get uprated pipes? :confused:
 

JPS3290

Dirty Diesel
Jun 6, 2003
438
0
Durham
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I had to replace this pipe and the top right angled intercooler pipe. Top one was about £40 and lower for just under £80, both from Seat! I had a quick look but couldn't find any uprated ones but needed car back on the road ASAP due to the mileage I do so had to get the standard ones.

The metal lugs on them that actually hold them in and hollow and wear down over time. My car (cupra tdi) is 3 years old but done 69k so hasnt done bad I suppose.
 

benuk

Active Member
Dec 12, 2008
271
0
UK
Yeah, its annoying as I'm nervous now about pushing too hard in-case it blows out again. I'm also reluctant to replace the pipe with stock parts as its obviously a bad design even before a remap!
 

CupraRobX

Active Member
Jun 29, 2006
467
331
Surrey
I too have had this same problem. I had all the hoses replaced at last servce by AmD Essex, only to find the lower boost hose elbow blow off two days later. (Pat @ AmD did warn this could happen!).

I got myself another lower boost hose and this time secured it using a 60-80mm jubilee clip OVER the standard U-clip. My thought process was that the lugs were able to force themselves past the standard clips as they flexed under full boost. By using the jubilee clip tightened over the standard clips, this could contain them, eliminating their ability to be forced out of position by the lugs. I was pretty confident this would work since i tried this method using the (2 day old damaged) hose with one rounded lug and it held full boost just fine for over 5 days of driving.

I also spoke so SFS performance about their silicone replacement, but they said people had returned them as they were a little too big. I sent them one of my OEM ones to make an exact copy from - as they never had one - but haven't followed up to see if they've made an improved one. I'd aim for the jubilee clip fix first (my has held for 8 months with no problems now) then maybe a silicone replacement.
 

JPS3290

Dirty Diesel
Jun 6, 2003
438
0
Durham
Visit site
I should have mentioned 62 of the 69K has been done with a Custom Code stage 1 remap as well so although annoying, I don't think 69k is too bad from a set of the pipes. However if the car was standard i'd be much more pee'd off!!
 

benuk

Active Member
Dec 12, 2008
271
0
UK
ok thanks, maybe I will try that, mine came off at the joint right at the intercooler.. so put the jubilee clip around the pipe at the intercooler the other one pushes into?

I too have had this same problem. I had all the hoses replaced at last servce by AmD Essex, only to find the lower boost hose elbow blow off two days later. (Pat @ AmD did warn this could happen!).

I got myself another lower boost hose and this time secured it using a 60-80mm jubilee clip OVER the standard U-clip. My thought process was that the lugs were able to force themselves past the standard clips as they flexed under full boost. By using the jubilee clip tightened over the standard clips, this could contain them, eliminating their ability to be forced out of position by the lugs. I was pretty confident this would work since i tried this method using the (2 day old damaged) hose with one rounded lug and it held full boost just fine for over 5 days of driving.

I also spoke so SFS performance about their silicone replacement, but they said people had returned them as they were a little too big. I sent them one of my OEM ones to make an exact copy from - as they never had one - but haven't followed up to see if they've made an improved one. I'd aim for the jubilee clip fix first (my has held for 8 months with no problems now) then maybe a silicone replacement.
 

CupraRobX

Active Member
Jun 29, 2006
467
331
Surrey
I know I should have taken pictures when I did it, but my hands were so thick with goopy oily grime i didnt want to get my camera dirty! I actually put a clip on each end of the lower 90 degree boost hose just to be sure (and I really couldn't be ars**d to scrabble around again to re-do the other side if it did pop off again!)

I put the jubilee clips over the 90 degree hoze first (loosely) then reattached as normal making sure the U-clips were in the correct position. I then positioned the clips directly over the U-clips making sure to keep as much contact area as possible. The clip wont sit perfectly straight but you can do them up very tight, so a little twisting is possible.

You should be able to get the clips either from a garage or maybe your local unfriendly B&Q store!
 

Lippo

YNWA
May 8, 2006
395
0
Formby
Mine went last year. Got a standard pipe to replace it. Not had any problems since. The car had done about 85k then, 45k on on a P Torque remap.

I wouldn't waste my money on an aftermarket hose, just get the original. About £25ish.
 

CupraRobX

Active Member
Jun 29, 2006
467
331
Surrey
Mine went last year. Got a standard pipe to replace it. Not had any problems since. The car had done about 85k then, 45k on on a P Torque remap.

I wouldn't waste my money on an aftermarket hose, just get the original. About £25ish.

No idea where you got an OEM one for £25!!! I think I had to pay about £85 for mine...bloody twice!!!!!
 

Lippo

YNWA
May 8, 2006
395
0
Formby
No idea where you got an OEM one for £25!!! I think I had to pay about £85 for mine...bloody twice!!!!!

I might be thinking of a different hose...

Which one is it?

MagicalSnap-201009230820-001.png



Edit; Just re-read the post, mine was the top hose that went, not the bottom one. £85 ouch!!
 
Last edited:

Lippo

YNWA
May 8, 2006
395
0
Formby
I'm talking about number two - the lower 90 degree boost hose from the bottom of the intercooler.

£85 for that, rip off...

Part number is 6Q0 145 832 C.

Had my front bumper off yesterday changing the oil and saw this pipe absolutely covered in oil and krud.
 

Lippo

YNWA
May 8, 2006
395
0
Formby
Well sod's law, my bottom hose popped off on Thursday at the start of a 30 mile trip home. Buggered around for 2 hours in -5C taking the bumper off before I found the culprit.

I now know where the lower intercooler pipe is!!

Popped off again today and managed to limp home. I've used loads of cable ties to secure it to the intercooler, making a cage of sorts to secure it together. Hopefully it'll hold till the weather gets warmer.

The added bonus was that the engine light came on which made it easier to drive home the last 15 miles. I've now reset it with cheapo eBay cable.
 

kieran1

Guest
I had the same problem a couple of weeks ago....went to Inschape VW in Chelmsford (Who I can't recommend enough!!!!)....cost £30 for the lower intercooler pipe...£2 something for the oil seal and a whopping 79p for the metal clip.......replaced them now have no problems with it at all.....I thought that I had seen a hard pipe somewhere...think it was in a Performance VW magazine but i could be wrong......
 

160driver

Guest
Hi all I have had the same problem it would appear......got a sucking noise under load acceleration and had it 'limp' on me with a charge pressure control fault: negative deviation. So took it to Seat (who have charged me £85 just to look at it) and they have confirmed an intercooler pipe has come adrift/broke but I am supposed to have warranty however it appears that it may not be covered!!!!!

Car has done 23k over 4 years...don't expect to pay 10k for a car that has already been in for various tit bits and now this!!!! And after being a sold a 'peace of mind' warranty I find I am not covered....it is bollox...

Anyway it looks like I am gonna be shafted so how do I get to the intercooler? Looks like a DIY job..

Cheers


160driver
 
Mar 25, 2009
1,245
0
bath
hey all, i did a test with an idea i had for this problem recently, i bought some 76mm heat shrink, cut it to size and the shrunk it over the joint, i then used a cable tie either side of the joint to keep it tight and secure, there is no movement in the joint and no air leaks, been like this for a few months now, all awkward joints i left the standards clips on but on the joint next to the engine i removed the clip so its just the heat shrink holding it together, its a remapped 130 tdi running 175bhp and 300torque and holding great, and at about £4 a metre its cheap
 

Lippo

YNWA
May 8, 2006
395
0
Formby
Hi all I have had the same problem it would appear......got a sucking noise under load acceleration and had it 'limp' on me with a charge pressure control fault: negative deviation. So took it to Seat (who have charged me £85 just to look at it) and they have confirmed an intercooler pipe has come adrift/broke but I am supposed to have warranty however it appears that it may not be covered!!!!!

Car has done 23k over 4 years...don't expect to pay 10k for a car that has already been in for various tit bits and now this!!!! And after being a sold a 'peace of mind' warranty I find I am not covered....it is bollox...

Anyway it looks like I am gonna be shafted so how do I get to the intercooler? Looks like a DIY job..

Cheers


160driver

It's fairly simple. Jack up the front of the car and remove the under tray. As you look from underneath the car, there is a thick hose to the far right of the engine bay, near to the bottom of the bumper. This is the bottom intercooler hose. I bent the plastic tray directly underneath the hose/intercooler to get better access. It takes a bit of effort to slide the hose back in. Quite straightforward, especially after doing it several times!

It is very mucky down there, loads of solidified oil and sh*t to ruin your duds.

85 quid is a lot of money for just looking!! Have a look on ebay for cheap VAGCOM cables. They really do work in doing simple stuff like reading and clearing fault codes.

hey all, i did a test with an idea i had for this problem recently, i bought some 76mm heat shrink, cut it to size and the shrunk it over the joint, i then used a cable tie either side of the joint to keep it tight and secure, there is no movement in the joint and no air leaks, been like this for a few months now, all awkward joints i left the standards clips on but on the joint next to the engine i removed the clip so its just the heat shrink holding it together, its a remapped 130 tdi running 175bhp and 300torque and holding great, and at about £4 a metre its cheap

Great idea. I don't know how much force is placed on the pipe and union but sounds like this would hold it well. I didn't have any heatshrink that size otherwise I might have tried it myself. I did have a load of cable ties and must have used about 16 to secure it. I'm pretty hopeful it'll be strong enough to hold it together for the forseeable future.