intermittent power loss 1.8T

[BEOWULF]

N75 is on the intake from the Air Box

Looks like this ...

cheers sportbilly
which one should i get bearing in mind that the car is revoed and where can i get one from will gsf parts have one or is it a main dealer jobby

 

[sportbilly]

I had a LCR and stuck with the same type, some Ibiza boys have swapped to the J I think.

LCR was an F if I remember correctly.

Dealer or VAGPARTS or any other place - doesnt really matter, about £30 or so.

 

[BEOWULF]

Thanks sportbilly much appreciated.
I try one of these at the weekend to see if it make any difference.

 

[ElasticTangent]

This is a long shot and I've never actually proved it BUT I had a similar problem with my old 180bhp Cupra. Foot down and no power. This might be coincidence but at the same time I had a faulty brake pedal switch which basically meant the brake lights were on all the time.

Once I had the switch swapped out I never had the power problem again. A mechanic mate of mine said that the ECU might have though that I had pressing both the breaks and accelerator at the same time and was cutting the power.

Like I say I never proved that this was the problem or that the info I was given was right.

 

[R Power]

wow i thought i was the only one!!! today and few days ago i noticed dramatic loss in power, my 225 lcr felt like a 1.6, pretty embarasing in a way i think. this N75 is the cause then is it?

 

[sicupra]

Does any one know where the N75 valve is on a cupra might just try this and go from there.

Infront of the DV, just under the corner of the plastic engine cover.
Theres 3 small diameter hoses coming off it.
I upgraded mine to a audi tt 225 one at the weekend and it fixed the problem and it definatly boosts better.

 

[BEOWULF]

This is a long shot and I've never actually proved it BUT I had a similar problem with my old 180bhp Cupra. Foot down and no power. This might be coincidence but at the same time I had a faulty brake pedal switch which basically meant the brake lights were on all the time.

Once I had the switch swapped out I never had the power problem again. A mechanic mate of mine said that the ECU might have though that I had pressing both the breaks and accelerator at the same time and was cutting the power.

Like I say I never proved that this was the problem or that the info I was given was right.

funny you should say that m8
I have noticed with my brake light if u put ya foot down to fast the 2nd time they don't work or flash on go off will try the n75 valve then go from there as it seams to be the easiest job .

 

[yellowbeezer06]

I also have this fault, but it does not dissapear when i turn the car off, boost returns randomly? have had a trial revo remap and a green dynatwist cone, thats it trial map ran out and fault then becam apparent.
I have replaced the MAF, also gave it a major service and it was perfect for a week then straight back to limp again. Getting really annoying now, i get the EML light on and vagcom and VAS both read fuel mixture system too rich Bank 1 long term fault?
tried replacing the DV with a Forge 007 and it was the same, tried standard air box also the same???

 

[yellowbeezer06]

Its a 2001 Leon 20vt Cupra btw

 

[sportbilly]

Get it flashed back to stock code ... see if you still have it.

You tried a different N75?

 

[yellowbeezer06]

apparently it reverts back to a Revo version on the stock map, i spoke to Revo they say they have never heard of it and that its nothing to do with them!
i havnt tried a different n75 yet, my mate has a 2001 Audi S3, would it be the same, its 20vt but a 210 lump?

 

[sportbilly]

Part number is on it - worth a try though - different one's give differnet spikes though.

 

[yellowbeezer06]

mite try tonite, iv already replaced some split boost hoses etc, and it still ran the same! 20vt's!!!!!!

 

[MrNorma]

casting up an old one but i have the same problem, restart engine and it goes for a while but comes back. Been since i had remap and dont think its that as so many people have it. Not changed anything as i dont want to spend money on something i dont need. Can anyone confirm whats causing this?

Mines is a 55 plat Ibiza FR

 

[mrvavavoom]

i had problems like this with mine and my tuner altered the I A T values and its perfect

 

[Damoegan]

I had a similar problem last year and it turned out to be the Bailey DV30 I was running at the time. When it got hot it was sticking (either open or closed).

Might be worth checking the condition of your DV, maybe give it a service.

 

[Mr Roboto]

I can't believe symptoms like that will not turn up in VAG-COM.

Off topic, I know, but what a way to write! If I knew a lot, I couldn't help, because it's hard to read.

Yeah that is starnge

SEAT told me for a fault code to register on the ECU the fault has to last for 2 seconds or more.

 

[MrNorma]

I had a similar problem last year and it turned out to be the Bailey DV30 I was running at the time. When it got hot it was sticking (either open or closed).

Might be worth checking the condition of your DV, maybe give it a service.

Did you restart the engine and the power seemed to come back? Looking forward to getting that pipe due to mine expanding.

 

[Deleted member 19366]

Drive along put foot down boost, left off for a bend put foot back down and bingo no boost. Switch engine off/on and we have boost again. You've now experienced boost leak, 9 times out of 10 its a split hose causing it

 

[MrNorma]

if it was split would it not do it all the time?

i need to go round all the hoses but dont know how to get in at them and also what i am looking for, any help greatly appreciated.