Key fob won't unlock passenger doors! Help!

[Felix]

Recently bought a 2004 Cupra but when clicking the open button on the remote only the passenger door opens even if I double or tripple click the open button I still only get the drivers door open. You can hear the locks doing something when it's pressed but nothing happens, could it be a sticky lock or something?
Also had the thought of maybe changing the locking system so that all the doors open with a single click, like normal... Though I believe this HAS to be done in VC, is there a way of doing it on the fob?
Any help welcomed!

 

[vwdom]

i got confused with the lcr i looked at the other day didn't realise you had to click it once for the drivers door twice for all the rest never did figure out how to get the boot open

 

[mr_magpie]

My lcr fob opens driver door with one click and all others with a second click on the fob. If you want to change this then you'll need some vcds lovin'

E.

 

[Felix]

Got it all sorted with help from a spot on bloke from here. Got on VC and changed the locking from double to single click opening and all is good. Everything opens on one click just as it should! Got a beep put on to confirm locking and unlocking. Happy chappy now :-D
Thanks for replies!

 

[Slimy]

I have a bit of trouble with my passenger lock, it doesn't always lock properly and never locks at all when I use the internal lock button. I need to open up the lock mechanism and sort out the solder points, it's a common fault. Have a look at this for what is involved;

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1542461

As mr magpie says, to swap from 'one door' to 'all door' unlocking it's a trip to VCDS land. It's an easy job.

 

[Jimmy3rown]

I've recently bought an '02 Leon Cupra, which I'm still getting to know (first VAG car).

I seem to have a problem with the central locking and alarm. First of all, the passenger door is playing up and VCDS-lite says there's an intermittent problem with it. Occasionally the door will work properly, the clear/red light and the main courtesy light will come on, but other times it won't. Also, I haven't had any issues with it locking/unlocking via buttons yet.
I think this door may have a lot to do with everything else.

For the first time, the alarm has gone off randomly, after hours without use, with no sign of disturbance inside or out. I think this is the faulty passenger door with a poor connection telling the car that it's suddenly open. This door doesn't get used much, but did a few times on this day.

I've read many times about the key having a double click feature, but I've never got this to work. I bought the car with it set to only open the drivers door, but I could never open the other doors with the fob, only by the button inside. I've put the setting back to normal (00259), resulting in all doors opening with one click. I don't have the flip key, and it has two buttons. I've read the manual, which does NOT mention being able to open drivers door with one click and other doors with two clicks. The only double click feature is for locking, which on the second click disables the alarm... which also doesn't seem to work - could this also be the faulty door? I think there might be a few Leon's with keys that do different things.

I have tried double clicking many times to see if I can disable the alarm with it locked, but no joy. I've tried pressing it at different speeds and used the same method in the door lock, but that little red light on the door keeps flashing away. Apparently the red light stops flashing if the alarm is disabled.

I'm not sure the volumetric sensors work - I've sat in the car with it locked for over 30sec looking special, and nothing. It has that button down near the seat, which I don't have a clue if it works because I can't test the sensors. Also, the vag-com says the sensor is on, no faults - but is it activated, does the car think the passenger door is open?

I want to strip all the doors down and reseal them, as well as fixing the passenger door, but not in this cold weather. On the other hand, I don't want the alarm to start randomly going off. I may have to take #14 fuse out for the winter.

 

[Felix]

Well, I still haven't got round to sorting the door mechanism on my passenger side yet and I occasionally get the door sticking locked, seem to be able to unlock it by pulling the handle inside (and feel resistance) and whilst holding it, press the door unlock on the drivers door, seems to free off the lock. From what I gather it's either caused by a slow lock, sticking lock, or by those terminals which need a spot of solder.

The sensors inside you should be able to test with the window down, then stick yourself in. Takes 30 seconds for the alarm to 'settle'. The button down on the pillar should disable it if you press it when exiting.
The remote double click thing should be done within 2 seconds of each other. I suggest you get the beep put on the alarm too - if the car doesn't lock properly you don't get a noise, so if your faulty lock decides not to lock then you'll know about it.

 

[Jimmy3rown]

Thanks Felix for replying.
I had another play with the locks/alarm today. Motion sensors definitely work and so does the disable button on the pillar.

I still can't get the double click on the remote to work, to lock the car with the alarm off. The locking/unlocking process doesn't seem right - there's a delay in the passenger door and when I unlock, the courtesy light flicks on/off, but it's meant to stay on. If I press the remote button a second time the light comes back on. So this seems like a door hasn't fully unlocked, or doesn't think it has.
So something's up with one or more the door electrics, probably those cracked solder points. Door mechanisms seem okay, I haven't had an issue of doors not physically locking/unlocking... I think.

I disconnected the battery today for about an hour in the hope that it would reset any settings that I didn't know about, but no. However the remote locking did behave differently - when it was locked the indicators didn't flash, but it was locked and the pilot alarm light was flashing. It did this a few times but it's now back to one click and doors lock with one flash of the indicators. Still can't get the double click to work though.

I've thought about putting the beep on, but I've been watching out for the indicators so far. May try the beep feature though.

I'd like to hear from anyone who can't disable the alarm with two clicks on the remote or two turns in the lock.

 

[Jimmy3rown]

I found a thread that clearly explains how the central locking works:
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=253812

Since my last post, there was a few times when the alarm randomly went off - the final straw was when it went off twice in the early hours of the morning. The ECU recorded an intermittent fault with the passenger door and I had a strong feeling it would be the solder joints in the module, so I ordered everything I needed to fix the module and seal the door carrier.

I used the following guides to help dismantle the door and fix the module:

To seal the door carriers:
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?p=3255716#post3255716

To strip the door down:
http://vwgolfr32.co.uk/windowregulator/

Repair the door module:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1542461

Guide for dismantling the rear doors, but I haven't done this yet:
The guide is on Golf GTI forum and the topic is 'Rear door card and plate removal with extra info for door locked shut'. The link was being blocked here.

My central locking is now working perfectly and the passenger door is sealed! The cracked solder joint on my module was for the latch switch - so the ECU wasn't always registering if the door was open or closed. The alarm was going off because the cracked solder joint would randomly make a connection and the ECU would think the door was being opened.

This job didn't go smoothly - I got to unbolting the latch mechanism on the door edge, the bolts require a 8mm triple square tool/bit, but a suitable sized allen/hex worked fine for me.

TEST that the latch mechanism works correctly before reassembling! Simulate the door being opened/closed, locked/unlocked, otherwise you'll be stripping the door down for a second time I'd even resealed the carrier too - the butyl sealant is brilliant stuff, but breaking the seal was hard work!

Finally, be wary of how many times you adjust the window with the engine off - I stripped and reassembled the same door twice and this flattened the battery.

I have three more doors to reseal, but as a temporary fix to prevent water ingress I've used the hook side of sticky backed Velcro. I've cut a small strip and stuck it vertically to the door - under the door card where the metal part of the door presses against the rubber seal on the car. The Velcro creates an air gap for the water to run through. I've stuck this close to the speaker, which seems to be where it leaks most, plus this is the lowest point. It's only rained once since, but when the door was opened the area where the Velcro is was dry.

 

[Jimmy3rown]

Also, don't forget to seal around the speaker because water comes through there too.
Some people go around with silicone sealant, but I chose to:

• Drill the rivets out to remove speaker
• Use the same butyl sealant as on the doors, but make it thinner by cutting or stretching
• I screwed the speaker back on using speaker fixing kit
• Holding the nut type part for the screw with the door carrier on is impossible, so I used double sided foam to hold in place before fitting the speaker.

 

[Stingly]

Not sure if thread 394079 is relevant or helps at all?

(can't link as I'm too much of a newbie, apparently.)

 

[Stingly]

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=394079

HA! I've now done enough posts to add links! Finally!