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d4ns

Active Member
Nov 10, 2012
101
0
Hey guys, really hoping for some wisdom / advice as im a bit stuck... :shrug:

Driving home, the car started to lose power and then started spluttering as if a coil pack is going. No engine light unlike last time. Pulled over to plug in the OBD2 module to connect to torque app and it stalled on me. Also nearly oversteering the bend as the power steering had stopped and PAS light come on. It has virtually no power now and after startup it hunts pretty quickly a couple of times and then dies without foot on accelerator. Cant drive without at least 50% throttle and then it kangaroos, splutters etc.

Cant see any loose intake hoses etc
No errors showing on torque app so rules out the coil packs / spark plugs?
Engine coolant temp was 90 degrees when checked so seems accurate, does that rule out the ECT sensor?

Next idea in my head is the TB sensor?

Seems to take ever so slightly longer to stall while cooler.

And help would be much appreciated.

Dan
 
Thank you for your quick reply.

Came across that thread a minute ago and didnt realise it was a video :p Yeah iirc it does make the high pitched whine, but doesnt it do that when it stalls anyway? Will double check in a second as to top it off its started raining. :)
 
it should make the high pitched whine when youve got the ignition on, that is normal.. listen to the video, that isnt normal.. the high pitched whine isnt consistant, its crackling like a loose connection.

This is how i realised it was a dodgy connection on the sensor, a simple clean fixed the issue
 
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It certainly felt inconsistent while i attempting to drive it the last 1/4 mile home and symptoms would certainly fit. Just had a listen, but its soo hard to tell with the rain pattering against everything. Might have to wait until morning to try. I disconnected the connection and put it back on and it back on and is still similar. It is definitely idling for longer before it stalls now its slightly cooler. Will try disconnecting the MAF in the morning too. I do hope its just a sensor. :)

Will try and listen again in the morning. Much appreciated. :thumbup:

Dan
 
I had the same sort of symptons when my map sensor on the boost pipe near the headlight had a broken connection
 
Thank you for all the tips. :)

Does vagcom give more info than the torque app?

Im thinking it may be the MAP sensor as when i disconnected it quickly earlier it didnt seem to make much difference when it was cold. Will try again in the morning.

Dan
 
Thank you for all the tips. :)

Does vagcom give more info than the torque app?

Im thinking it may be the MAP sensor as when i disconnected it quickly earlier it didnt seem to make much difference when it was cold. Will try again in the morning.

Dan

Vag com will pull up any faults or show roughly where the
Fault is . Mine has shown air mass sensor , torque monitor 2 , and Imobilizer fault . Feeling yours will be similar .
 
Well its still starting up every time quite easily, Cant hear any 'crackling' from the TB. Just changed the MAF sensor as it hasnt been done in a long time anyway and its exactly the same. Now its completely cold it starts up and just dies, not hunting now. :s

Temp sensor was new not long ago.

Torque app not showing anything other than the MAF sensor from when i disconnected it, but reset it and not on now.

Wondering if it could be coils, but id expect it to run still rough, more like its getting no air.

Any help would be awesome...

Dan
 
Or it's your Imobilizer is throwing a fault up with your key / cluster . Don't ask me how . I just know as that's what mine did last year . Just decided to pack up on me . Mines doing the same again , but haven't had time to get round to looking at it yet .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Highly doubt the immobiliser tbh as was still driving with revs and not coming up with any key warning light etc., but thanks for the tip.

Oh yes, Rivva, was the connection under the TB i tried. no luck and contacts nice and shiny.

Dan
 
Going to take the TB off and clean it tomorrow evening, but im truly stuck as most things that it could be would throw up a code light. :s

Can i reset the TB with torque app?

Spent ages looking through threads, but most similar issues are the MAF from what i can see... :think:

Dan
 
Bit of a long shot,but a few months ago i bought a set of samco hoses,which were from an s3, after i fitted them, mine misfired sometimes,and lost power when i put my foot down, i didnt get a light or any codes come up.
It turned out the top hose which went to the throttle body,was slightly kinked and wasn't getting enough airflow,i put the old hoses back on, and it solved the problem
 
Thank you. Its certainly something to check. :)

Not sure if it was a one off but while experimenting with TB and MAF disconnected, the revs climbed on first start up. This could have been from the extra fuel from priming it though.

Just want some daylight and a bit of dry weather to have a play. Just want to think of possible causes to minimise wasted time of the road.

How accurate is torque app with diagnosing stored codes, for example would a vagcom cable reader display more information, etc.

Dan
 
Thank you. Its certainly something to check. :)

Not sure if it was a one off but while experimenting with TB and MAF disconnected, the revs climbed on first start up. This could have been from the extra fuel from priming it though.

Just want some daylight and a bit of dry weather to have a play. Just want to think of possible causes to minimise wasted time of the road.

How accurate is torque app with diagnosing stored codes, for example would a vagcom cable reader display more information, etc.

Dan

Since using VAGCOM I've found the torque app to be a bit hit and miss, only seems to bring up certain fault codes and can be very on and off if you get me, one search would result in nothing then 2 mins later search again and there's a code pops up.. Not very reliable if you ask me, get it plugged in with VAGCOM

Sticky revs on start up (rises to 2k then slowly drops) is the sign of a leak OR dodgy thermostat, I wouldn't of thought the stat would cause such running issues though?
 
Check all of the vacuum hoses under the inlet manifold where the PCV pipe work is for leaks, when I did the PCV delete I left the nipple underneath uncapped therefore causing a massive leak and what you mentioned about hunting revs happened and basically ran like a bag of nails until I capped it off
 
Did you fit a genuine cts? I fitted a cheap Ebay one on my car and after a few months it packed up causing me to hardly be able to start the engine pitch genuine one in and it's running fine now.