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Kevgrady

Full Member
May 4, 2006
408
0
North East
right here we go i have a problem with my cupra. Its going into limp mode at all kinds of speeds :confused: , the mods i have are : forge FMIC, forge TIP, forge 007p, BMC CDA and miltek cat back.
 
needs to be pluggd in to diagnostic equipment to diagnose:)
like phoning up the doctor and saying i have something in my eye:)
 
been on vag com and use to come up with negative deviation but had it mapped today by bell auto's and thats stopped now :shrug:
 
what was the fault code
it shouldnt of been mapped if there was a fault present anyways and they should have tested it better
 
nooooooooooooo, it hast got any faults coming back now as vegative deviation was bad mapping, but whats the excuse for limp mode?
 
It was on vagcom b4 i touched it , like i do with all my customers cars.

The original problem with the cars map was a big minus hole in the boost request map as a bad atempt to sort the boost problem out.

Now that the map is correct he still has a slight problem somewhere else on the car causing this limp mode on very limited occasions and not every time you put your foot down like with the original/previous tuned map.


I could switch limp mode of in the file OR tell the file not to give this fault BUT this is not curing the cars problem mearly cheating it into going away.
 
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Then personally I would check all vac hoses first and all pipe work, next carry out final control diagnosis repeatedly on n75 boost pressure control valve and check resistance of it when hot,check wastegate operation with mity vac and disconnected then take it for a long road test to evaluate air mass meter,boost pressure o2 sensor etc and come up with an answer from that
 
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As you say goble i think there is some component failure when the car is hot or still a possible pipe problem somewhere.

He has changed most of the pipe work for silicone pipes.

All the intercooler hoses are fine to the FMIC etc etc, it really only leaves the N75 braking down or one of the pipes you have not done.

Testing components and pipes will give the answer in the end i think
 
or had before the earth straps next to the ecu are corroded and giving poor earths and the old one of water ingress into the ecu.(had it before that car would run o.k. for 1 hour then go into limp or cutout on road,opened ecu and small deposits of water were in ecu)
 
If im been honest here,, today i did not notice or think of earth straps next to the ecu.

I did however make the comment that the ecu cage was very loose to the bodywork from the previous tuners atempts.

Something i overlooked if im been honest :redface:

Should the earths be connected directly to the ECU cage ??

I only ever slide the ecu from the cage if needed for some reason,
but never remove the cage totaly so dont take much notice of any earth straps attached.
 
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There one above the ecu and actually two behind the vin number in the scuttle panel:)
 
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Something else for you to look at kev.

no jobs sorry, I could not afford you lol

I only had a quick look at the car today as it was only intended for me to sort the mapping problem out and not to do any other problems the car may have.
 
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But we did have fun fitting the TIP, and tightening the wheels after your tyre fitter left them loose :(