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N249 and N112 Bypass
- Thread starter peter_cupra197
- Start date
Where are you based? It's a very easy mod that's over complicated by the amount of questions about it on here but if you're nearby to the Swindon area I'll give you a hand
Also depends on whether you want to bypass it mechanically or with resistors - in which case you'd also need to look at binning the SAI pump
Also depends on whether you want to bypass it mechanically or with resistors - in which case you'd also need to look at binning the SAI pump
Im down in cambridge 
wish you were a little closer lol i know what you mean though i read it one time and it seems ok then on another thread it sounds really complicated maybe you could just send me details the way you did it would be greatly appreciated
wish you were a little closer lol i know what you mean though i read it one time and it seems ok then on another thread it sounds really complicated maybe you could just send me details the way you did it would be greatly appreciated 
Why do it?
Did the manufacturers not put it on for a reason?
Its something i have never looked into doing so thought i would ask! lol
Did the manufacturers not put it on for a reason?
Its something i have never looked into doing so thought i would ask! lol
its for the america law with their car rules..
look as this link it tells you how to do it:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3111538
anyone know where the thread is with the vac pipe diagram for the n112 bypass aswell as the n249 or can u put it on this thread. I've done the n249 just need to know where to route the vac pipe's remaining i rekon strait bit from actuator to inlet main with tee into dv please correct if wrong
cuprachrissy
Guest
i have read sooooooooooo many threads on this, all i wanted to do was take the horrible box off the top. my car has been off the road for a while so wanted to tackle but i stupidly took everything off, done it wrong n now nothing is connected. i know the gold valve at the bottom of the mani is for the fpr, but as for everything else i dont have a clue. just want to know what goes to what in the pic if it helps. thanks, soz for jumping on thread (and by the way i have read the sticky but doesnt help my prob), thanks
pic of what i mean
pic of what i mean
cuprachrissy
Guest
why in this pic is the uys second selenoid (circled) disconnected, like no vac lines attached?. this is also where i have put my selenoids so should i just copy this? sorry garygti just need to get this over and done n never attempt it again!!
i have read sooooooooooo many threads on this, all i wanted to do was take the horrible box off the top. my car has been off the road for a while so wanted to tackle but i stupidly took everything off, done it wrong n now nothing is connected. i know the gold valve at the bottom of the mani is for the fpr, but as for everything else i dont have a clue. just want to know what goes to what in the pic if it helps. thanks, soz for jumping on thread (and by the way i have read the sticky but doesnt help my prob), thanks
pic of what i mean
1 =N112
2=n249
why in this pic is the uys second selenoid (circled) disconnected, like no vac lines attached?. this is also where i have put my selenoids so should i just copy this? sorry garygti just need to get this over and done n never attempt it again!!
This is the N249 Bypassed
U can copy this... but you are placing them over the heat off the turbo and exhaust manifold. people on here have had them melt. get a 330ohm 10watt resistor and remove the lot. or sit them over the rocker cover more
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cuprachrissy
Guest
omg i just got it, i feel really stupid now lol, cant believe i dint realise all this long. o well. 
cuprachrissy
Guest
ok might move back onto rocker cover or put heat shield underneath. thanks for your help mate. im an electrician and i wouldnt even bother messing around with resistors on cars. lol
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=205897&highlight=bypass
thats about as simple as it gets to explain this is from when i done mine...
thats about as simple as it gets to explain this is from when i done mine...
your an electrician and you wouldnt mess around with resistors on cars.??
we have done it for ages. and its not that complicated. even an electrician can do it. if thats what you are then you should have no problem jointing. how hard could it be?
It really is so simple.
It's more difficult sitting there and reading about it but when you are outside with the bonnet up it's straight forward.
I have done it mechanically but I have 2 resistors in my room. I have decided to keep the engine cover so i have got rid of the N249 but left the N112's just plugged in.
If anyone wants the resistors let me know. i wont bother with them now.
It's more difficult sitting there and reading about it but when you are outside with the bonnet up it's straight forward.
I have done it mechanically but I have 2 resistors in my room. I have decided to keep the engine cover so i have got rid of the N249 but left the N112's just plugged in.
If anyone wants the resistors let me know. i wont bother with them now.
I've done my N249 bypass and realy want to remove it, hopwever I also want to remove the other one I think its the N112. However I have read and read every thread on the bypass but I just want to be sure...
The N249 has no vac lines so can be easily removed with a resistor... easy
The N112 still have the vac lines to it, If I am to remove this and put a resistor in place I now have the vac line from the actuator and the SAI. What do I do with these? Do I simply just connect the vac lines up to each other?
The N249 has no vac lines so can be easily removed with a resistor... easy
The N112 still have the vac lines to it, If I am to remove this and put a resistor in place I now have the vac line from the actuator and the SAI. What do I do with these? Do I simply just connect the vac lines up to each other?
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