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Hey fella, sorry my inbox as been full and I had your email yesterday but worked a 12 hour shift and was poo'd when I finished.

Thought it would be better to reply on here so people can add to it and I know someone will use a "search" button one day and this will be enough for them to know what to do lol.

To be honest in comparing the panel filter with drilled box and a induction filter there isn't much differeance as long as you have a good air feed to the induction filter and it never caused me any problems as long as you keep on top of the cleaning it will last for years!

Before thinking of cams, headwork or even a map/flash ecu, I would recommend to sort the air filter (either of above) exhaust system a nice 4-1 manifold the TSR manifold is pretty much impossible to find here let alone to you in Australia. If you have a very good and knowledgable custom exhaust company then that might have to be better option for you!

I always thought that no more than 2.25" was ideal for an N/A engine but my new system is now 2.5" but thats because of the power the car is running now and it needed more flow. But if you are going for a 2.5" exhaust it could be easier to use the Mk3 Ibiza Cupra 1.8T 20v aftermarket exhausts.

Along with the exhaust system and manifold would recommend a decat pipe, made hell of an improvement to mine! You may loose bottom end torque but the 16v isn't really known for that and you will gain at the higher range of the rev's and it will rev a lot quicker!

With the throttle body there is a taper inside before it goes to the butterfly, I had the taper machined out to increase the internal diameter of the throttle body. Dont have to worry about the butterfly being too small after this as it tapers towards the butterfly and then opens back up to the full diameter at the buterfly so machine that tapper just increases the throttle body internal diameter heance more air flowing :)

Once you done that don't bother with the mapping/flashing the ecu yet! Go for a shorter final drive taking it from 3.67 to 3.94, shortens the ratio of the gearbox and makes it feel like you've add 20bhp match this with a lighten and balance flywheel as the oem one weighs a stupid amount.

Here's a link to everything you need to know about the 3.94 FD! Clicky, click

Add an ATB diff to the box and you have a very good handling car to! And I could do another eassy on handling! lol.

Reason why i said not to have the ecu mapped/flashed yet is because if you thinking of cams and headwork this would be the best time. But with the stock ecu you can't go any more than 268 degree cams, I was told that 260 was the limit for the ecu and it won't pass the MOT but mine did with 268 cams but did involve a bottle of fuel cleaner and a blast up the motorway before testing the emissions :D

If you don't want to do the cams and headwork then give a remap/flash a go I guess.

Think thats it for the engine unless you want to spend more you could keep with the N/A engine like I have and fit throttle bodies or go to the dark side and go for forced induction in either the turbo or supercharge form!

But if you want to spend that kind of cash then you would be better off buying a Mk3 Ibiza Cupra thats breaking buy the whole car removing the engine and varies bits and do a 20vT conversion then sell off what you didn't use from the donar car and make some cash back! Roly and Martin M are the ones to ask about that part ;)

Hope this helps, I'm off now to get a can after that write up :drunk:
 
Hey fella, sorry my inbox as been full and I had your email yesterday but worked a 12 hour shift and was poo'd when I finished.

Thought it would be better to reply on here so people can add to it and I know someone will use a "search" button one day and this will be enough for them to know what to do lol.

To be honest in comparing the panel filter with drilled box and a induction filter there isn't much differeance as long as you have a good air feed to the induction filter and it never caused me any problems as long as you keep on top of the cleaning it will last for years!

Before thinking of cams, headwork or even a map/flash ecu, I would recommend to sort the air filter (either of above) exhaust system a nice 4-1 manifold the TSR manifold is pretty much impossible to find here let alone to you in Australia. If you have a very good and knowledgable custom exhaust company then that might have to be better option for you!

I always thought that no more than 2.25" was ideal for an N/A engine but my new system is now 2.5" but thats because of the power the car is running now and it needed more flow. But if you are going for a 2.5" exhaust it could be easier to use the Mk3 Ibiza Cupra 1.8T 20v aftermarket exhausts.

Along with the exhaust system and manifold would recommend a decat pipe, made hell of an improvement to mine! You may loose bottom end torque but the 16v isn't really known for that and you will gain at the higher range of the rev's and it will rev a lot quicker!

With the throttle body there is a taper inside before it goes to the butterfly, I had the taper machined out to increase the internal diameter of the throttle body. Dont have to worry about the butterfly being too small after this as it tapers towards the butterfly and then opens back up to the full diameter at the buterfly so machine that tapper just increases the throttle body internal diameter heance more air flowing :)

Once you done that don't bother with the mapping/flashing the ecu yet! Go for a shorter final drive taking it from 3.67 to 3.94, shortens the ratio of the gearbox and makes it feel like you've add 20bhp match this with a lighten and balance flywheel as the oem one weighs a stupid amount.

Here's a link to everything you need to know about the 3.94 FD! Clicky, click

Add an ATB diff to the box and you have a very good handling car to! And I could do another eassy on handling! lol.

Reason why i said not to have the ecu mapped/flashed yet is because if you thinking of cams and headwork this would be the best time. But with the stock ecu you can't go any more than 268 degree cams, I was told that 260 was the limit for the ecu and it won't pass the MOT but mine did with 268 cams but did involve a bottle of fuel cleaner and a blast up the motorway before testing the emissions :D

If you don't want to do the cams and headwork then give a remap/flash a go I guess.

Think thats it for the engine unless you want to spend more you could keep with the N/A engine like I have and fit throttle bodies or go to the dark side and go for forced induction in either the turbo or supercharge form!

But if you want to spend that kind of cash then you would be better off buying a Mk3 Ibiza Cupra thats breaking buy the whole car removing the engine and varies bits and do a 20vT conversion then sell off what you didn't use from the donar car and make some cash back! Roly and Martin M are the ones to ask about that part ;)

Hope this helps, I'm off now to get a can after that write up :drunk:



Best answer i seen on the whole site broken down and simplified for a noob like me and others :) thanks and well deserved drink
 
Thanks Dave that breaks it down into the format I was looking for! On the exhaust side I have spoken to rob at TSR and he is putting something together for me but as you are aware there has been some fitting or clearance issues so he is in the process o some internal testing on the Ibiza to ensure I have a smooth install down under........ I have read your build thread several times and I figured I would model your build from your beast so thanks. Im sure I will have some other questions as I progress but your info has been very much appreciated.

BTW where is the best place to source the final drive and do I need any other parts to complete the mod?

Enjoy your Drinks and thanks ....... :D:D
 
TSR is now under new ownership so that one will be different, could be for the better or worse but it's what you need :)

The final drive you can get from the old VW Passat but I was wasn't too sure on the gearbox code and then would need to strip that gearbox aswell as mine and knowing my luck it would be chewed gear!

All the extra bits I used are listed in the link on page 2 along with the part numbers and amounts needed! Need anymore advise just ask!
 
Also I have spotted a company called supersprint.... they do an option for the car ! Any good ? There is also a company in the USA/ebay motors store that look to be selling a copy of the supersprint option.
 
Supersprint is only for the LHD models, same for the US and they haven't got the ABF engine out there.
 
AS I understand it after talking with rob he said he still had a prototype unit on the shelf and he did ask the question right or LHD...... Lets hope its the right one ! ;)
TSR is now under new ownership so that one will be different, could be for the better or worse but it's what you need :)

The final drive you can get from the old VW Passat but I was wasn't too sure on the gearbox code and then would need to strip that gearbox aswell as mine and knowing my luck it would be chewed gear!

All the extra bits I used are listed in the link on page 2 along with the part numbers and amounts needed! Need anymore advise just ask!
 
sorry if this is in the wrong thread im mecanically minded and elecric mided e.g sound systems car wiring but engines are a new venture for me and i manage to aquire a 4 1 stainless steel manifold for the gti ibiza and a decat the decat will be piss easy done before but manifold fitting i thinks going to be tricky am i right or wrong please advise help :)
 
manifold would be quite a long task for a 1st thing to do.. quite fiddily also....is you cat and downpipe one piece?
 
i belive so but the one im getting have decat built on i hoped would unbolt from bottom under car remove head and and just unbolt is this not the case :(


found this for a jetta would this be similar

Put the vehicle on a lift or on jackstands. Make sure the support is secure.

Step 2Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove any heat shields that are in the way, and then disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring. Remove the exhaust support brackets as needed.

Step 3Take the front exhaust pipe from the manifold or the turbocharger. Loosen the exhaust manifold nuts and bolts and remove them. Lift the manifold from the engine.

Step 4Discard the old gasket. Use solvent to clean any gasket material from the exhaust manifold surface.

Install the Exhaust Manifold
Step 1Coat the stud bolts on the cylinder head with hot bolt paste. Set a new gasket in place and then position the exhaust manifold on the engine.

Step 2Tighten the bolts in sequence, working outward from the center in a criss-cross pattern. Torque the bolts to 18 foot pounds.

Step 3Bolt the exhaust pipe to the manifold with a new gasket. Use new self-locking nuts and torque them to 30 foot pounds.

Step 4Reverse the procedure to reconnect hoses and connections that were removed earlier. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Step 5Start the engine. Check for any exhaust leaks.
 
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right sounds like a haynes manual read lol but my fear is the bots going to be siezed so blow torch and wd40 before i try lol