mashpotato_1981

Guest
I have got a problem with my brakes since replacing rear pads/discs and osr caliper. Bought an eezibleed kit to do a brake fluid change but now i don't have a brake pedal! It just travels to the floor, very little resistance... I have bled both rears, osr first...but do i need to do the fronts aswell? Is this why there is no pedal, air in the front lines cos i thought with a pressurized system it wouldnt get into these? it probably sounds well amateur but could do with a bit of friendly advice on this one.... before tryin to bleed the fronts....

thanks
 
I would bleed all of them, just to be on the safe side. When you changed the rear calliper, were you careful when bleeding them not to let the reservoir get too low, you could have introduced air into the system it wasn't kept topped up.
 
kept the feeder bottle half full though at times it went down to min so i guess air may have gone in... can the eezibleed systems damage your master cylinder? ran it off spare tyre with around 20-25psi...
 
I don't know whether it's the same on your car, but mine also uses the brake fluid for the clutch. I don't know whether that has to be included in your bleeding as well? But do the front brakes first, as those are easier.

I thought eezibleeds use 20 PSI max, with 10 PSI being typical? I can't imagine the reservoir or the pipe being designed to cope with any kind of high pressure, might be worth having a quick feel round to see if you have a leak that could be introducing air.
 
You will need to bleed all 4 and ensure the fluid does not get low during the bleeding process
 
Do all 4 starting with the n/s/r then o/s/r then n/s/f then o/s/f. Keep the reservoir topped up to the brim making sure it's doesn't drop because there is a overflow, an it will draw air in if your not careful, then u will have to start again :) give each caliper around 9 pumps.
 
Sorry Danielson - I need to disagree with you - If bleeding air from a system you always start with the bleed point closest to the supply - that way you are eliminating air in a progressive manner and the air will be evacuated systematically; what does this mean? well start from o/s/f - then n/s/f - the pedal should get better as the front system is air free! the task is then to do o/s/r then n/s/r and the pedal should end up better than it was prior to disc/caliper change.

If you let any air in the master cylinder then you need to start again and repeat above.

The Eazibleed is a good system, however you can easily loose track of how much fluid has passed through.

Good Luck!
 
Always been told back to front and always done it that way and it's always been fine, but I will try it front to back on next brake job I get, see if it's any better :) cheers.
 
Do all 4 starting with the n/s/r then o/s/r then n/s/f then o/s/f. Keep the reservoir topped up to the brim making sure it's doesn't drop because there is a overflow, an it will draw air in if your not careful, then u will have to start again :) give each caliper around 9 pumps.

Dont pump the pedal to the floor to bleed the brakes,

I killed my servo this way feb time, , the misconception it rolls the master cylinder isnt the biggest issue, more you split the diaphragm in the servo, which is a bugger to replace,