Rear callipers sticking

[JDUB 20V]

Recently noticed the rear callipers on my LCR are slightly sticking & thought about replacing the handbrake cables so had a word with the parts man at my local Seat Dealership and he mentioned adding a weight modification to the rear calliper to allow them to release fully. Can anybody shed some light on this please?

 

[Steely]

9 times out of 10 the reason the rear calipers stick is due to the pads actually being restricted due to a build up of grime in the metal sliders,

mine have done it twice now, 30 min strip down, wind the piston right back, clean the sliders x2 & pad guides x4 , ( they pull out of the cage) and this should sort your problem,

 

[JDUB 20V]

Il give that a go but the handbrake leaver also feels as though the cables are worn if you know what i mean..

 

[Rgm racer]

9 times out of 10 the reason the rear calipers stick is due to the pads actually being restricted due to a build up of grime in the metal sliders,

mine have done it twice now, 30 min strip down, wind the piston right back, clean the sliders x2 & pad guides x4 , ( they pull out of the cage) and this should sort your problem,

Hope ok to jump in here as I have also got rear caliper sticking issue.

When you say strip down does this involve also having to disturb fluid at all so it needs re-bleeding afterwards?

Also how do you wind pistons back and are you able to post picture to show or explain more what you mean by sliders,pad guides and cage?-thanks rob.

 

[Steely]

Hope ok to jump in here as I have also got rear caliper sticking issue.

When you say strip down does this involve also having to disturb fluid at all so it needs re-bleeding afterwards?

Also how do you wind pistons back and are you able to post picture to show or explain more what you mean by sliders,pad guides and cage?-thanks rob.

No need to disturb the brake fluid, just take the handbrake off,

just undo the caliper from its hanger, IIRC 1x13mm and 1x 15mm open end spanner,

theres 2 metal guides wich the pads sit in on the hanger, and 2 sliding pins held in by ruber sleeves, clean all these up a much as possible,

you'll need a brake wind back tool/ socket attachement , one caliper has a LH thread, one a RH, keep winding the caliper back to its stop position, ( keep an eye on your brake fluid resovoir just incase it fills over as you wind the piston back,

refitting is reversal of removal,

 

[JDUB 20V]

No need to disturb the brake fluid, just take the handbrake off,

just undo the caliper from its hanger, IIRC 1x13mm and 1x 15mm open end spanner,

theres 2 metal guides wich the pads sit in on the hanger, and 2 sliding pins held in by ruber sleeves, clean all these up a much as possible,

you'll need a brake wind back tool/ socket attachement , one caliper has a LH thread, one a RH, keep winding the caliper back to its stop position, ( keep an eye on your brake fluid resovoir just incase it fills over as you wind the piston back,

refitting is reversal of removal,

Makes sense, will give go tomorrow provided they weather holds out! Will update thereafter, Cheers buddy.

 

[MarkWales]

Any more information on the caliper weight?

 

[rallynut]

yeah i had this as said clean up brakes and make sure piston winds in and out ok,if it still does it there is a spring clip that can be bought for about £3 a pair that hooks on the outsid eof the caliper and pulls the tension off better than without it,worked for me but wish i knew before i spent weeks trying to sort mine.

 

[JDUB 20V]

yeah i had this as said clean up brakes and make sure piston winds in and out ok,if it still does it there is a spring clip that can be bought for about £3 a pair that hooks on the outsid eof the caliper and pulls the tension off better than without it,worked for me but wish i knew before i spent weeks trying to sort mine.

Any part numbers or links for the springs?

 

[Rgm racer]

No need to disturb the brake fluid, just take the handbrake off,

just undo the caliper from its hanger, IIRC 1x13mm and 1x 15mm open end spanner,

theres 2 metal guides wich the pads sit in on the hanger, and 2 sliding pins held in by ruber sleeves, clean all these up a much as possible,

you'll need a brake wind back tool/ socket attachement , one caliper has a LH thread, one a RH, keep winding the caliper back to its stop position, ( keep an eye on your brake fluid resovoir just incase it fills over as you wind the piston back,

refitting is reversal of removal,

So does it need a wind back set that has tools for both left and right hand threads as i see the cheaper individual tools seem to be either right [most cases] or left handed?

Also if winding back pistons to clean up caliper or fit pads etc.what happens after,do you have to rewind back in or does this happen automatically as you use brakes again?

 

[Rgm racer]

bump

 

[Brettyboy]

So does it need a wind back set that has tools for both left and right hand threads as i see the cheaper individual tools seem to be either right [most cases] or left handed?

Also if winding back pistons to clean up caliper or fit pads etc.what happens after,do you have to rewind back in or does this happen automatically as you use brakes again?

Just pump ur brake pedal & they self adjust

 

[MarkWales]

Where did you get the springs? Any Part Numbers?

 

[Steely]

So does it need a wind back set that has tools for both left and right hand threads as i see the cheaper individual tools seem to be either right [most cases] or left handed?

Also if winding back pistons to clean up caliper or fit pads etc.what happens after,do you have to rewind back in or does this happen automatically as you use brakes again?

They self adjust as mentioned , and no one tool is used for both. All it means is you wind clockwise for one and counter-clockwise for the other, its usually a disc with 2 lugs on which can either be attached to a 1/2" wrench

 

[rallynut]

search in the ibiza forums for part no.

 

[JDUB 20V]

Gave the carriers/sliders a good clean today and applied copper grease, see how it goes now..

 

[Slimy]

That doesn't sound right to me. Both my rear calipers both wound in the same way. The wind in tool contains a threaded bar, it will only wind in one way and I only needed one tool to do both sides.

There's no reason for them to be opposing threads. This is the tool I have;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290697330910

 

[Steely]

That doesn't sound right to me. Both my rear calipers both wound in the same way. The wind in tool contains a threaded bar, it will only wind in one way and I only needed one tool to do both sides.

There's no reason for them to be opposing threads. This is the tool I have;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290697330910

I only used the one tool for both sides, im sure theyre opposite threads, purely for the way the handbrake adjusts,

 

[Slimy]

I know what you're thinking, you're saying that because the handbrake cable attaches to the caliper on the same place on each side, as it pulls you would expect that the pistons would rotate in opposite directions, so you'd have to wind them in the opposite way?

Unfortunately that's not how the pistons work. Under normal conditions the pistons do not rotate, even when you apply the handbrake. The rotation is only required to wind the pistons back in against the ratchet mechanism. So it doesn't matter where the cables attach, they're still only applying linear force rather than rotational.

If they did rotate, they'd have to do something clever with the backing of the pads otherwise over time the piston would wear into the back of the pad. Or the pad would wear away the piston!

Was the tool you used similar to the one I linked to? It's only got a right hand thread, so if the other one had to wind the other way you would actually be helping it to wind out.

 

[bruceR]

As above, the pistons are pushed back in using the same tool for both sides and rotate the sme way.
I have changed rear pads on mine a couple of times and can confirm this