Sorry for the double post....but look at my specs and I'm running a SMIC, only causes a issue if I rev high in hot weather....fine in the winter though
the smic is inadequate even as standard, i used to get massive inlet temps after a high speed run in the summer
tbh to actually enjoy these cars you cant just map them, if i were doing it again from scratch i'd uprate to an fmic and fit a decent clutch first. The standard items are inadequate and closely followed by the standard turbo especially on a pd130
tbh to actually enjoy these cars you cant just map them, if i were doing it again from scratch i'd uprate to an fmic and fit a decent clutch first. The standard items are inadequate and closely followed by the standard turbo especially on a pd130
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My VNT mechanisms sticks unless lubricated; goes into limp mode going up fair hill at middle throttle position while maintaining speed 75mph indicated. I lubricate it with WD40 every oil change and it seems to have gone away.. so maybe an issue and certainly BriSkoda forum have it down as a problem on these tdi engines. Anyway a Cupra so no intercooler issues so maybe not relevant.
Thanks for the info, just checked out BriSkoda and it seems to have a lot more info on this... now all I need to do is find out how to lube it! This is interesting...
Q: "For someone that has possible VNT sticky vanes what is the best advise on how to drive with it whilst you don;t have funds to get it fixed?
Can you do any damage to the car whilst driving with sticky vanes?"
A: "Yes, the turbo is working at 150% or flat out maybe seeing upto 40psi , so turbo seal will fail, can split intercoolers, boost controller working overtime trying to bring the boost down, poor MPG, too much cylinder compression head gasket fail."
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For anyone reading this after some info, it was a sticky turbo vain causing my limp mode at speed.
Took it to a different garage for a scan and it came up with "charge pressure control positive deviation" as a fault code, basically overboosting. Checked the actuator and it was tight-ish, did the old "Italian clear out" (no boost to full and instant throttle release through gears several times) and it was fine afterwards. I'll just get it lube'd every year at service time now to keep it going.
Took it to a different garage for a scan and it came up with "charge pressure control positive deviation" as a fault code, basically overboosting. Checked the actuator and it was tight-ish, did the old "Italian clear out" (no boost to full and instant throttle release through gears several times) and it was fine afterwards. I'll just get it lube'd every year at service time now to keep it going.
The way I lubricate the VNT is;
1. First disclaimer.. putting flammable WD40 on a turbo is dangerous, working on a hot turbo in a restricted space is dangerous. Have a fire extinguisher ready or nearby.
2. I do this every oil change.. I do it hot .. so get car hot enough to pull in the cooling fan (also checks cooling fan works which is a good idea)
3. Then jack up car on passenger side and prop axle stand under it (I do this while running and awaiting fan but no doubt HSE says do not run and jack a car)
4. Remove belly pan
5. Stop engine after fan pull in
6. Drain oil.. note that hot oil is nasty stuff.. so gloves and care.
7. Let it drain for 30-40 mins.. do oil filter, lubricate door hinges, check other stuff.. change diesel fuel filter, check air filter, replace pollen filter etc..
8. Now it is cooler.. get a smaller can of WD40 (mega cans are too big to get in there)
9. Lie on your back and follow the exhaust back up behind the engine.. find the turbo "snail" between engine exhaust manifold and down pipe. Feel up and around it .. note it will still be warm.. you can feel the VNT mechanism on the top/rear/driver's side
10. Worm a can of WD40 up ... and with it upright (or it will not spray) then spray onto external mechanism of VNT. If it is too warm.. wait. If you get lots of white clouds off then it is too hot - may set fire (unlikely but.. .. so best to have a fire extinguisher ready as who knows!)
11. Finally belly pan back on and down off axle stand
12. When you start up .. you will get a whiff of WD40 and maybe a little white smoke off exhaust.. I normally only start up and drive outside so it gets another 12 hours to evaporate and I guess I cannot use full turbo for 4-5 miles so it burns off slowly.
VNT has actuator with a connecting rod and then internal vanes and mechanism. You will not get to the vanes/internals so a good max/min Italian tune does them.. the external parts can get sticky at entrance to the turbo so that is what I lubricate (same way a handbrake lever entry on rear brake calliper can get sticky)
Here is a good picture to see what you are doing
http://www.technologie-entwicklung.de/Gasturbines/VNT15-Turbo/vnt15-turbo.html
1. First disclaimer.. putting flammable WD40 on a turbo is dangerous, working on a hot turbo in a restricted space is dangerous. Have a fire extinguisher ready or nearby.
2. I do this every oil change.. I do it hot .. so get car hot enough to pull in the cooling fan (also checks cooling fan works which is a good idea)
3. Then jack up car on passenger side and prop axle stand under it (I do this while running and awaiting fan but no doubt HSE says do not run and jack a car)
4. Remove belly pan
5. Stop engine after fan pull in
6. Drain oil.. note that hot oil is nasty stuff.. so gloves and care.
7. Let it drain for 30-40 mins.. do oil filter, lubricate door hinges, check other stuff.. change diesel fuel filter, check air filter, replace pollen filter etc..
8. Now it is cooler.. get a smaller can of WD40 (mega cans are too big to get in there)
9. Lie on your back and follow the exhaust back up behind the engine.. find the turbo "snail" between engine exhaust manifold and down pipe. Feel up and around it .. note it will still be warm.. you can feel the VNT mechanism on the top/rear/driver's side
10. Worm a can of WD40 up ... and with it upright (or it will not spray) then spray onto external mechanism of VNT. If it is too warm.. wait. If you get lots of white clouds off then it is too hot - may set fire (unlikely but.. .. so best to have a fire extinguisher ready as who knows!)
11. Finally belly pan back on and down off axle stand
12. When you start up .. you will get a whiff of WD40 and maybe a little white smoke off exhaust.. I normally only start up and drive outside so it gets another 12 hours to evaporate and I guess I cannot use full turbo for 4-5 miles so it burns off slowly.
VNT has actuator with a connecting rod and then internal vanes and mechanism. You will not get to the vanes/internals so a good max/min Italian tune does them.. the external parts can get sticky at entrance to the turbo so that is what I lubricate (same way a handbrake lever entry on rear brake calliper can get sticky)
Here is a good picture to see what you are doing
http://www.technologie-entwicklung.de/Gasturbines/VNT15-Turbo/vnt15-turbo.html
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