Replaced MAF - still got a idling problem :(

[kineticz]

Right I've found a tutorial on cleaning the throttle body on the internet.

What can I use to clean the crap out? I will give this a try this weekend!

Wouldn't it still run rough even with the maf unplugged though as the throttle body is still gunky?

 

[traumapat]

yes to be fair. if the car runs perfect from cold with maf unplugged i cant see it being much else.

i could drive with a bad maf but like yours the idle wouldnt settle, nor did it show on vagcom. correct maf from a vw garage and it was sorted.
thought i had the same problem 6 months later but it was a gunky TB

its not unusual for a new maf to fail. is that the same part number as the old maf? if your not sure id ring a seat dealer and check the number.

mafs die through vibration. is everything secure?

 

[kineticz]

Yup it's the same part number as my old maf mate, but with an 'X' on the end which I was told is fine. I got the maf from an Audi parts dealer. It was posted to me in plenty of bubble wrap.

Everything appears to be secured OK

 

[traumapat]

if audi have told you that id check with SEAT. ive no idea but it strongly sounds like the maf is unsuitable or failed according to the symptoms.
if you had coil pack issues i cant see an unplugged maf helping. and id expect vagcom to notice too.

check that part number with a seat dealer and hopefully they`ll say its not right
fingers crossed

 

[kineticz]

I got the part from a used Audi parts breakers. It's not new, so I'm thinking maybe it was faulty anyway dude

The part number is correct as I remember finding it on this forum

 

[kineticz]

"The MAF sensor ending in "L" is for the AWP engine code.. Basically the 180hp horse motors. The "D" is for AWW/ATW/AWD'd .. 150 horse motors. If my memory serves me correctly the "A" is in fact for 2.0's .."

This came from another forum. The two mafs that have been in my car have ended in D, but my car is 180hp? Does that mean it's meant to have had 06A906461L instead of 06A906461D?

 

[traumapat]

not sure. give seat a bell to be certain

 

[kineticz]

OK I've found out the part number

Just a thought, could a faulty MAP sensor cause this problem?

 

[kineticz]

Right gents, I've purchased a brand new MAF and fitted it. The car now idles alot better at around 1200rpm, however occasionally the revs drop down and the car shudders, then it goes back upto 1200 rpm

Can anyone advise on this please

 

[kineticz]

WTF! Now when I turn the engine on the car goes to 800rpm then tries to cut out straight away?? The car misfires like mad when I try to rev it

Please can someone help me with this I'm so annoyed

 

[traumapat]

was 1200 from cold? 800 from warm engine? if so i think its about right from memory.

have you cleaned and reset the throttle body?

 

[kineticz]

1200 from cold yes, but at 800 the engine isn't showing as warm on the dashboard, although it may still be warm enough.

I haven't done the throttle body no as I hoped this would cure it

 

[traumapat]

idling is fine. dosnt have to be warm gauge wise.
see if cleaning the TB sorts it

 

[kineticz]

Well I've found this:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1116399

But my intake pipe goes allll the way down behind the engine rather than at the top back of the engine like in that tutorial

 

[kineticz]

Right I found and cleaned the throttle body, and I've also put the standard airbox back on. The car idles very poorly when warm.

It's not the MAF as I've replaced that twice now. There are no fault codes. I'm actually quite upset and depressed

 

[traumapat]

Right I found and cleaned the throttle body, and I've also put the standard airbox back on. The car idles very poorly when warm.

It's not the MAF as I've replaced that twice now. There are no fault codes. I'm actually quite upset and depressed

you aligned the tb? is it now worse after cleaning?

 

[MonkeyB]

If I was you mate I'd take it to a garage and ask them to have a look, you'll just end up wasting loads of money trying one thing after another. Very hard for anyone on a forum to give you a definitive answer when they cant have a proper look at the car.
Saying that, I'm having pretty much the same kind of problems as you and have been to 2 separate garages and still no look getting mine sorted. The last place I took it told me to buy a new Maf sensor and they would fit it as they were sure that is the problem, turns out Leon's with an engine code BCB (like mine) dont have a MAf sensor
Going to book it into an auto electricians to see if he can sort it.

 

[DPJ]

Kinetikz - Does you car have a throttle cable?

 

[kineticz]

you aligned the tb? is it now worse after cleaning?

Yeh it is abit worse actually. Not overly but abit lol.

I tried to open up block 060 in my vag com but i don't have the full version so it wouldn't let me reset the throttle body I went to VW dealer and they said it would cost £40 to reset it! Is there any other way I can do it please?

In the body, there was abit of oil which I managed to clean out with WD40. Was this oil expected?

DPJ, my car has an electronic throttle attached to the body. I took that apart and could see two cogs and some kind of circuit.

Is it possible there is some kind of break in the wiring?
When I rev the car and try to hold it at 2000 rpm for example, it will misfire and go down then back up and hold then misfire again. However if I rev it hard it doesn't misfire.

Hope this helps any further suggestions, I'm willing to give it a thorough check tomorrow if I can be pointed in the right direction.

Thankyou

 

[kineticz]

Right, I've reset the ECU and it now idles at 1200rpm as normal. However when I rev it is misses badly up until 3000rpm and I can hear loud pop noises coming from the exhaust

When warm it goes to 800rpm for like 5 secs then just dies

Somebody help meeeeee

I'm trying to sort this out without wasting more money