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Jimbobcook

Replacing the tailgate latch

Jimbobcook

Blue... Oh go on then
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Nov 24, 2012
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Guide now located in the new resources section of the site

 

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Legojon

I only wanted a remap
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Really appreciate you taking the time to photo and write this up. As you say can save some £s for a DIY job. For the next person that comes along, what do you do with the key and that slot on the inside of the boot? Just slide the key along it to unlatch it? I assume it can be any thin piece of metal and doesn't have to be the actual key?
 

Jimbobcook

Blue... Oh go on then
Staff member
Moderator
Nov 24, 2012
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Really appreciate you taking the time to photo and write this up. As you say can save some £s for a DIY job. For the next person that comes along, what do you do with the key and that slot on the inside of the boot? Just slide the key along it to unlatch it? I assume it can be any thin piece of metal and doesn't have to be the actual key?
Yeah you just push a bit of metal in and slide it across

Here is the bit of metal you're sliding for reference
IMG_20190512_120350-1305x2320__01.jpg
 

Jimbobcook

Blue... Oh go on then
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Ace. I'll keep that in mind cause they always go at the most inconvenient of times!
I'd rather they stayed locked instead of not locking at all like mine did after a food shop... had to drive 3 miles thinking my boot was going to open on every bump I went over haha
 

Legojon

I only wanted a remap
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I'd rather they stayed locked instead of not locking at all like mine did after a food shop... had to drive 3 miles thinking my boot was going to open on every bump I went over haha
LOL. Luckily they are quite heavy boots. Till I got used to shutting SL2 that little bit harder the first few journeys I could hear this banging. Which turned out to be the boot opening and shutting a couple of inches.
 

t121anf

Newbie
May 14, 2004
555
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Be careful with ones from eBay mine was a terrible fit and needed modded to fit, the boot doesn’t latch as easily either.

Part was listed as for our cars too, happy though as it was considerably cheaper than an oem part.
 

Jimbobcook

Blue... Oh go on then
Staff member
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Nov 24, 2012
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Be careful with ones from eBay mine was a terrible fit and needed modded to fit, the boot doesn’t latch as easily either.

Part was listed as for our cars too, happy though as it was considerably cheaper than an oem part.
This was a genuine OEM latch so if it didn't fit or had issues I would of sent it back.

You could always get a quote from listers or hortons on the forum as they will be genuine!
 

Legojon

I only wanted a remap
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Ace. I'll keep that in mind cause they always go at the most inconvenient of times!
I know I'm replying to my own quote... but seemed quite apt. Just been looking through your guide again ready for when my new latch arrives.

One thing I'd add... on the journey home I obviously had the warning boot open on the MFD, rear tick lights and wiper were unavailable. When i got home, I unplugged the bigger connector (the one you use the screwdriver on) and now I have full lights working, rear wiper and no warning on the dash. The boot is definitely still open because it doesn't sit flush. But worth knowing as everything now functions correctly even with the boot tied down. So it's a bit less nerve wracking.

Where best to get the part from. Cheers
Unfortunately the part on Amazon is on 4 weeks delivery and I just wanted my boot fixed. So I got a price from Listers. With the added bonus, the one I'm taking off is Rev C and the one hopefully arriving today is Rev E. Although the original lasted 8 years so not that much of a design flaw. I'm probably getting a cheaper made version LOL.
 

Legojon

I only wanted a remap
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Jul 7, 2015
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So just to add to this... if your boot still won't shut and crying doesn't help (which it didn't). You may need to adjust the striker to actually get the boot closed properly. I moved mine a little towards the read bumper. Helpfully it uses the same M8 bolts as the latch.

upload_2020-1-9_11-50-2.png
 
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