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Im not convinced with induction kits on turbo cars and never have been.

The passage of air is a whole lot different to that of a N/A car and because of this i really cant see what benefit they do.

Good for making sucking noise, but doubtful if any real gains are had from them.

I have a BMC induction kit but dont think it does a lot really
 
I don't want to remove the battery cover/protector. I want to keep it looking as clean and as standard as possible. So I would assume that 80mm is the biggest unless there is a 90mm version? lol

My FMIC should help keep temps nice and low anyway.. think i'm more worried about airflow than temp?
Or am I looking at it the wrong way?

Pabs, I will have some Leon battery relocation brackets available in a week or so (for a very reasonable price) that will enable you to move your battery 20mm or so into the engine bay and free up some space for cold air ducting.

Personally I would smooth out your air box and install a panel filter as other than noise I would say the gains are marginal. Just get a decent 80mm or preferrably 100mm air feed into it.
 
Im not convinced with induction kits on turbo cars and never have been.

The passage of air is a whole lot different to that of a N/A car and because of this i really cant see what benefit they do.

Good for making sucking noise, but doubtful if any real gains are had from them.

I have a BMC induction kit but dont think it does a lot really

I think the engine is always sucking, so I think it's just about allowing it to get the least restricted, coolest volume possible. :shrug:
 
I disagree slightly mate as the nice cool dense air that is being sucked in by these filters is then wasted by the change in temperature when it is compressed by the turbo. An increase in pressure relates to an increase in temperature.

Just for example, and all theoretical figures....

If the inlet air is going in at say 10c, and comes out of the turbo at 60c then is cooled by the coolers and into your intake manifold at 20c
Then this change is done by the efficiency of your coolers?

The intercoolers cool the air by 40c in this example.

Now my logic tells me, even if the air goes into the turbo at a lower 5c, the turbo is still going to spin the air at its maximum boost 1.55 bar and the air will still be charged to 60c? Pressure and temperature being related!

Or is this when it comes out of the turbo at 55c and the relationship is always going to be a 50c increase. The turbo is still pressurising to exactly the same level, so is this at a result of a fixed temperature?

Thats what i cant get my head around.

However i know in the summer, the cars do feel a lot more sluggish compared to what they are doing at the moment, but i suspect thats down to the intercoolers not working as efficiently with the hotter outside air temp not being able to cool as much rather than the temp of the air going into the filter.
 
remember a post maxtorque posted about pressure ratio... and intake losses magnify out

airflow (logged) gains are seen on some induction kits, I have seen them with green panel and Dynatwist. anyone expecting big gains has been deluded by sales speil

:)
 
just to say when the ihi was fitted my dynatwist was removed and i now have a lcr airbox and std intake pipe. the tuners attitude was that i needed a bigger maf so the lc dynatwist wouldnt fit... cheapest option was the lcr box.

lots of ihi conversions are apparently run off standard boxes with no problems. so i think air flow should be fine. theres a grn panel filter in there in case that makes a difference. car is quieter induction wise and you dont notice the dv noise.
 
I really don't want to relocate the battery. But if the price is right, and its easy enough to do, I suppose i might do it if the gains of a 100mm over an 80mm are noticable and worthwhile.

Keep me informed coxw!
thanks


I'm going to see what the weather is like over the next few weeks, and then take out the carbonio and install std airbox and std filter, and hopefully source some of this ducting from b&q or somewhere - am i right to assume b&q sell the black stuff? Or do they only do white?
 
ok guys... another question...

100mm duct - to STANDARD LC AIRBOX.

Has anyone done this, and does anyone have pics of how the hose is joined to the box?

Does it have to be joined to the box? Or, like some filters, can it just "point in the direction of"... ie so no physical join?
 
ok guys... another question...

100mm duct - to STANDARD LC AIRBOX.

Has anyone done this, and does anyone have pics of how the hose is joined to the box?

Does it have to be joined to the box? Or, like some filters, can it just "point in the direction of"... ie so no physical join?

Pabs, I took my battery out and fitted a 100mm duct down the gap beside the indicator to the bottom of the front panel. Battery fitted back fine.

I'm running with an enlarged airbox hole and with the hose pushed up against it. I've left it like that for now to avoid a syphoning incident if I hit a puddle.
 
I took some logs once comapring standard airbox with green filter with an open filter on the same day and there was around 6-8 g/s increase with the open cotton filter with cold air blowing in its general direction!
 
I believe you just squeeze it into the oval shaped hole.

Its something im just about to try also.

Does it matter if the intake hose is corrugated inside or is it better for it to be smooth throughout?
 
Does it matter if the intake hose is corrugated inside or is it better for it to be smooth throughout?


Similar question to the one i asked my missus last night, actually ;)
But of course i don't refer to it as an "intake hose".....:whistle:
 
I believe you just squeeze it into the oval shaped hole.

Its something im just about to try also.

Does it matter if the intake hose is corrugated inside or is it better for it to be smooth throughout?

I read an article where someone experimented with flow from different hoses. I seem to remember that a 4" corrugated flowed as well as a 3 1/2" smooth.
 
where did everyone get the hoses?
I was all set on b&q until the above comment..... if they rip then i want something stronger, but £21 odd seems expensive???
 
where did everyone get the hoses?
I was all set on b&q until the above comment..... if they rip then i want something stronger, but £21 odd seems expensive???

Mine ripped, so I got duck tape (you can get black or silver), and then pulled the hose as taught as I could and then double wrapped it. Don't know whether it may offer a little heat insualtion for having the protection, but its certainly not ripped since and is still bendable.
 
Maybe a bit pricey but Its very thick, smoother inside, heat resisitant and flexible. The BQ one got squashed down and pinched in places when I had it.

I've noticed I get a better DV noise with this stuff than the BQ stuff also, sounds more "inductioney" :)
 
I've had my B&Q ally corrugated on for 18 months 35,000 miles and it hasn't ripped yet. There's even a straight section of it running parallel with the road (about 5" from the road) and fully exposed. It's got a few dings in it from all the action down there, but it's not perforated.

(I'm not suggesting the 4" smooth isn't better though.....)
 
wow, your's has stood up better than mine has - when I took mine out, it had been pinched so tight in some places once it passed the battery etc taht I couldn't see through it! Its easy enough to reshape though but I was fed up of reshaping it all the time.