Seat Ibiza starting problems, rough on idle

[xxjay247xx]

Hay, so I was running around in the car yesterday, the car was running a little ruff, however I thought nothing of it.
I then get to a point where I was entering a junction, changed down a gear and the car suddenly lost power and there seemed to be some sort of engine braking, it managed to gain a little power and I could move a couple of feet then the engine cut out!

So my father towed me as the car would not start and called the RAC.
so the guy did all the tests, and decided the engine was flooded with petrol.
He managed to get the car started and pointed the issue to the coolant temp sensor, as it was constantly reading -1c, purchased a new sensor car started however it was misfiring in cylinder 2 and 3, father replaced coils and plugs, misfiring solved!
However now when you start the car, its running very lumpy in idle, revs jump up and down and sometimes even cuts out.

So whats gone wrong? I don't think its the chain as when I push my foot on the accelerator, the car sounds great, could it possibly be the pre cat oxygen sensor? I have a fault code reader however no codes are showing
Would also like to note the RAC man said the compression was a little low, however he said its because the engine was flooded.

 

[louise ibiza re]

This was happening to my car yesterday and my mechanic said that the timing had jumped abit and was affecting the timing

 

[xxjay247xx]

Bump/update.

Replaced coils, lambda/oxygen sensor and spark plugs, the car can have trouble starting on times, however when it stars I need to keep my foot on the accelerator, because the car will die as soon as soon as I leave it idle
Its indefinably not the chain, because the car runs perfect while my foot is on the accelerator.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[RUM4MO]

I'd still reckon that you should check the timing so to make sure the chain has not allowed it to go out. Replacing lots of bits without having a good hard reason will get a lot more expensive that getting a specialist to check it over.

You say the RAC guy said the low compression would be due to flooding - sorry I don't buy that, liquid fuel being in the cylinders would increase the compression as you can't compress liquids as easily as gas.

 

[xxjay247xx]

I'd still reckon that you should check the timing so to make sure the chain has not allowed it to go out. Replacing lots of bits without having a good hard reason will get a lot more expensive that getting a specialist to check it over.

You say the RAC guy said the low compression would be due to flooding - sorry I don't buy that, liquid fuel being in the cylinders would increase the compression as you can't compress liquids as easily as gas.

Whats the best way to check the timing? I honestly cannot take this thing to a garage, I'm tight on cash as it is with insurance could never afford it!

 

[RUM4MO]

Maybe get a loan of a Haynes repair book for Fabia/Polo 9N/Ibiza and it should be in there.

 

[xxjay247xx]

Purchased a Haynes manual, me and my father followed all the guidelines to check if the timing is out, however the timing is perfect.

with the code reader there are no codes, so we decided to check all the monitoring sensors, according to the code reader the EGR and Oxygen sensor are showing up as inconclusive.
could this possible have anything to do with it?

 

[xxjay247xx]

*update

Finally received a code after keeping my foot on the accelerator for a couple of mins.

P0321 Ign./Distributor Eng.Speed Inp.Circ Range/Performance

Did a bit of research, and the cause of the problem is a Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Implausible Signal

So what sensor am I looking at to replace to fix this problem? been looking around but cant seem to find a G28 sensor.

 

[RUM4MO]

A guess here, but how about crankshaft sensor - it is probably round about the flywheel, the only other one, I think, is the camshaft sensor, but that will be for fuel and spark timing I'd guess.

You did fit genuine VAG parts when you replaced the coils and the Lambda probe didn't you - especially Lambda probe VAG or NTK sourced parts only (same thing).

Edit:- Maybe search for stuff covering "VAG G28 sensor" - I just used Google - and you will find that you can check a few things like, resistance of sensor coil (if you have an indication of what it should be), bits of metal stuck to the inner end of this sensor, and, it seems, missing/badly worn ring gear teeth!

 

[xxjay247xx]

The coils are genuine VAG parts, however the oxygen sensor is a Bosh part, removed the G28 sensor today and it was very dirty with metal stuck all around it, cleaned it and put it back in, but still having the same issues, I noticed the car starts fine from cold, runs rough through idle, as soon as it gets to temperature it will die, and the car wont start unless I keep my foot on the accelerator.

 

[RUM4MO]

I'm still a bit wary about what to replace next, but, engine coolant temperature being duff would cause this as while the engine needs/will tolerate extra fuelling when cold, it will eventually annoy it quite a bit when hot - though as would a duff MAP sensor as it also has a temperature sensor built in, so could also cause this, unfortunately as could the (control) Lambda sensor - ie the precat one. Fuel pressure being too high "suddenly" would not be good. Still a guessing game unless you have something like VCDS that lets you check some parameters as opposed to fail/pass checks.

Edit, if you are still getting the G28 fault after cleaning refitting it correctly (pushed in fully), then maybe the remainder of the reasons for this G28 fault still stand.

 

[xxjay247xx]

Cheers for all your help mate, I have also purchased a new coolant temp sensor, still have all the same issues, at the end of the day I think I am going to have to take it to a garage, hopefully they will have the equipment to pin point exactly where the problem.

 

[xxjay247xx]

Called a Mobile mechanic today, and found there was a fault with the EGR, turned out the thing was clogged and was stopping the valve from closing, he give it a couple of taps with the wrench, and car stopped dying while idling, and ran perfect for a couple of mins.

Going to clean it out and hopefully it will repair the fault!

 

[RUM4MO]

Strange that no EGR fault codes were getting logged. There can be lots of issues with EGRs it seems, even as simple as too much (cooling) air getting in past the piston. My experience of only one VAG engine's EGR, a 1.4 16V BBY, was that the EGR was fault free and only the throttle body end of the pipes were clogged with gunge. I did replace the EGR as I had bought a new one from Ebay - proper VAG part, but it showed no improvement with my problems, but each case will be different.

 

[louise ibiza re]

I finally got mine sorted was a maf sensor the timing was not out and was ok

 

[xxjay247xx]

Finally car running perfect! so pleased, finally have a car again, however nothing is ever exactly perfect!
Engine management light came on, and getting these codes:

P0117 Engine Coolant Temp.Circ Low Input
P0106 Manifold Abs.Pressure or Bar.Pressure Range/Performance

 

[RUM4MO]

Finally car running perfect! so pleased, finally have a car again, however nothing is ever exactly perfect!
Engine management light came on, and getting these codes:

P0117 Engine Coolant Temp.Circ Low Input
P0106 Manifold Abs.Pressure or Bar.Pressure Range/Performance

So what did you do to get the car running better - cleaned the EGR valve, if so what did you use and what did you find?

Maybe now remove the MAP sensor and clean it up just in case its coated with gunge and is not being too reponsive. Engine coolant temperature, maybe a new genuine VAG one would sort this bit out.

 

[xxjay247xx]

Cleaned the EGR valve and used some Redex, took it for a good long drive!