This was your replacement that's gone bad isn't it? I seem to remember a post years ago when I first started looking into what the fault was and read a post (might have been by Pabs?) and he stripped down the door to find that most of the soldered joints had gone in the actuator. He re-soldered them and it seemed to be then ok at the time. Who ever it was, he did quite a big article on it that was specific to the Leon. Water ingress is the big bug of what is a great car!
 
Yeah it it happend again with the new replacement actuator, it just seemed to jam in the lock position. We put it all back together and what i have done now is just leave my door barrell slighlty lose just now, if all goes well i will tighten it back up next week (providing it doesnt fall out and get lost lol). Im now having the dreaded red oil light flashing after getting a new head fitted, new water pump, pulleys and timing belt, asked my mechanic to remove the sump and check the oil pick up pipe as i think something may be blocking it. Was actually amazed that they never took sump off to check if anything had broken on the head and fell in there, he wanted to try thicker oil first to cure problem but ive opted for checking the pick up pipe 1st as this should have been checked after rebuilding the top end after the damage it received. Fingers crossed :)
 
I'm having serious issues with mine.
I can lock the driver's door off the barrel, but no sound like the other doors are trying to lock.
Also my key fob won't lock or unlock the car.
 
Faulty door lock module most likely, worth checking the wiring to the door though. It goes from the door module to a plug inside behind the kick panel.

Easiest thing is to scan the ccm (46) with vagcom or suitable vag scan tool.
 
Pull fuse 14 for 5 minutes then refit and retry, it could just be taking a wobbly

I know this is an old thread but pulling out fuse 14 seems to have stopped my door locking and the alarm activating while driving the last couple of days. I guess my door lock module is fecked.