Hi guys had the car in for a service and mot the other day and had the rear brake discs and pads replaced. The rear drivers side pad is smoking and the disc is red hot, is this just due to the pad bedding in or does it sound like the caliper needs changing out too?? Any advice greatly appreciated cheers!
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Smoky brake pads
- Thread starter adyRE
- Start date
Definitely binding. Check to see if the handbrake caliper arm is moving freely when the handbrake is down.
I would recommend fitting the rear caliper release springs if you haven't already to stop this from happening!
hi guys cheers for the replies. Quick update on the pad, the pad stopped smoking but the brake disc is still way hotter than all the others. I dont really know what im looking for to be honest, im thinking is it the caliper sticking? I dont know how they bled them either foot or pressure, what are rear caliper release springs?? And lastly how do you check if the caliper arm is moving freely??
Sorry if i sound completely useless lol
Sorry if i sound completely useless lol
With your car in gear, release the hand brake and look under the rear of the car. When looking at the calipers you'll be able to see the cable attached to the arm on the back of the caliper.
Check to see of the arm moves freely and returns to its original resting position. This will check that the handbrake cable isn't too tight and the 'arms' are able to release the pads from the disc.
If they're fine, then it could be a sticking caliper.
Check to see of the arm moves freely and returns to its original resting position. This will check that the handbrake cable isn't too tight and the 'arms' are able to release the pads from the disc.
If they're fine, then it could be a sticking caliper.
I'd try this order.
Visual check the handbrake is releasing
4 wheel pressure bleed + master and ABS (never let a garage pump the pedal to bleed)
Fit handbrake release springs
Strip, grease and rebuild calliper.
Replace calliper
There's lots of things to do before shelling out on expensive parts. Also, if you go and get a new calliper first, you'll never know if it was faulty, or if the bleed or rebuild sorted it for you.
Visual check the handbrake is releasing
4 wheel pressure bleed + master and ABS (never let a garage pump the pedal to bleed)
Fit handbrake release springs
Strip, grease and rebuild calliper.
Replace calliper
There's lots of things to do before shelling out on expensive parts. Also, if you go and get a new calliper first, you'll never know if it was faulty, or if the bleed or rebuild sorted it for you.
i had a sticking caliper on my passat but its sort of the same lucas rear caliper fitted. turns out the mechanic who fitted the brakes last time "forgot" to tell me the main dust seal was missing. upon strip down i quickly noticed the piston wasn't releasing properly and only ejecting when the brakes were applied. VW do a recon kit for these and other calipers. bit of a fiddle to do but can save you some money. there's a how to guide on the uk passat forum that i did with pictures. the spring mod is also a very good idea and sures up the handbrake when u come to apply it as opposed to it being a bit floppy!
It seems convenient that the caliper seizes just after a brake change!
I'm not out to accuse anyone but there have been a lot of cases of garages ballsing up rear brake changes on these. They don't seem to realise how the auto adjuster works with the piston.
All I'm saying to anyone reading is that beware, these calipers are easily damaged if the wrong methods are used to change pads and discs, so if it breaks after a garage has touched it, assume they broke it first!
I'm not out to accuse anyone but there have been a lot of cases of garages ballsing up rear brake changes on these. They don't seem to realise how the auto adjuster works with the piston.
All I'm saying to anyone reading is that beware, these calipers are easily damaged if the wrong methods are used to change pads and discs, so if it breaks after a garage has touched it, assume they broke it first!
One thing to remember, pads tend to get replaced because they are worn, so that means that the piston has been extended and a long section of the piston will have been exposed to ambient conditions slightly protected by the dust cover as opposed to being protected by the piston seal and covered in brake fluid. When the new pads get fitted, this probably now a bit scabby/rusty piston gets forced back behind the seal so it is more likely to seize when the brakes are applied, or at least cause the brakes to drag.
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I "bottled it" and grabbed a rebuilt one from ECP when on special offer, I think it was being sold by Pagid, sorted the Passat, my biggest problem was finding exactly where the cable adjusters were on the 4Motion version - pretty obvious eventually and a lot easier to reach than on the front wheel drive cars.
Yes that's a fair point, but I'm looking more at the fact they have to rewind the piston in and that there is normally no requirement for handbrake adjustment.
I've seen a few instances of garages either forcing the piston back without winding in, and damaging the threads,
Or adjusting the handbrake before the brakes are applied, meaning the cable goes super tight once the brakes are pressed and the brakes then drag under normal driving.
Not a widespread problem as such, but definitely one to look out for with non vag garages
Yeah well I put the car into kwik fit as I was desperate for the service and mot thats when they replaced the brakes and handbrake cable, well £400 + later I took it to a local garage who specialise with seats and they said the same that kwik fit may have been too rough and damaged the caliper so Im in the process of arguing my Case with them 
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