Stud conversation & spacers

[Ca11um43]

What size spacers and wheel studs would people recommend getting? I'm running the standard Cupra R wheels and have been quoted £200 for a garage to roll my arches, which I will be having done at some point...So when time comes, I would like some spacers to make the wheels sit pretty flush with the arches. I also do most of the work on my car, and just find it easier getting the wheels on and off with studs, so I would like to convert to those at the same time. Somebody has already recommended 10mm spacers for the front, 15mm spacers for the rear, and M14x1.5x80 studs.

I apologise if this has already been asked before, but the forum is being a little weird for me and won't let me search.

 

[Glosphil]

I agree that it is much easier to change a wheel on a car that uses studs rather than bolts.

However, VW sell 1 or 2 plastic or aluminium studs that are hand screwed into the hub, after a wheel is removed, to hold the replacement wheel 'balanced' in place when the bolts are inserted. I have two with my tool kit in the boot of my Leon. Bought the studs when I had a Octavia vRS.

I can probably find the part number of you want it.

 

[Ca11um43]

I agree that it is much easier to change a wheel on a car that uses studs rather than bolts.

However, VW sell 1 or 2 plastic or aluminium studs that are hand screwed into the hub, after a wheel is removed, to hold the replacement wheel 'balanced' in place when the bolts are inserted. I have two with my tool kit in the boot of my Leon. Bought the studs when I had a Octavia vRS.

I can probably find the part number of you want it.

The most annoying thing at the moment is that I have temporary 5mm spacers on the front (to clear the coilovers), and they're the universal ones with multiple different bolt patters on...So with no studs to hold it in place, it's a bit awkward to hold that where it needs to be, hold the wheel up, and put the bolts in at the same time Obviously that won't be as big of a problem when I get my arches rolled and buy bigger spacers, but I'm not sure when that will be. The studs are something I'm looking to do now, then the spacers and getting the arches rolled are things that will be done in the near future.

 

[Glosphil]

The most annoying thing at the moment is that I have temporary 5mm spacers on the front (to clear the coilovers), and they're the universal ones with multiple different bolt patters on...So with no studs to hold it in place, it's a bit awkward to hold that where it needs to be, hold the wheel up, and put the bolts in at the same time Obviously that won't be as big of a problem when I get my arches rolled and buy bigger spacers, but I'm not sure when that will be. The studs are something I'm looking to do now, then the spacers and getting the arches rolled are things that will be done in the near future.

What I have suggested (2 hand screwed in studs during a wheel removal/replace) would meet your requirement with less cost & hassle.

 

[ChrisssC]

Racingline do this conversion kit: https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-brand/racingline/racingline-wheel-stud-nut-kit-m14x1-50/ (there's an 80mm option for spacers). When I was running standard wheels I had 15mm front and 20mm spacers, which filled the arches nicely without need for rolling.

 

[Ca11um43]

Racingline do this conversion kit: https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-brand/racingline/racingline-wheel-stud-nut-kit-m14x1-50/ (there's an 80mm option for spacers). When I was running standard wheels I had 15mm front and 20mm spacers, which filled the arches nicely without need for rolling.

Was you also lowered with these spacers? I'm not sure exactly how much my car is lowered by as it's on coilovers, but there is maybe a 1 finger gap between the top of the tyre's and the arches So I think with spacers it would start to rub on that inner lip/pinch weld. The plan is to get that rolled at some point, which will stop the tyre's from rubbing on it and allow me to bring the wheels out slightly more as well, so they're more flush with the arches.

 

[Ca11um43]

What I have suggested (2 hand screwed in studs during a wheel removal/replace) would meet your requirement with less cost & hassle.

I will look in to this Thanks

 

[ChrisssC]

Was you also lowered with these spacers? I'm not sure exactly how much my car is lowered by as it's on coilovers, but there is maybe a 1 finger gap between the top of the tyre's and the arches So I think with spacers it would start to rub on that inner lip/pinch weld. The plan is to get that rolled at some point, which will stop the tyre's from rubbing on it and allow me to bring the wheels out slightly more as well, so they're more flush with the arches.

Yes, but not crazy low, I'm on Bilstein B12s, so lower than standard but not coilover low.

 

[Ca11um43]

Yes, but not crazy low, I'm on Bilstein B12s, so lower than standard but not coilover low.

Got ya. I wouldn't say I was mega low, but probably lower than your car...15mm on the front and 20mm on the back sounds like it would be ideal though, after I get the arches rolled Or I could just buy them at the same time as the studs, and give it a try. Should be fine, until I start getting on bumpy roads. Then I have a feeling that it might rub lol

 

[MoToJoJo]

I've just taken the RacingLine stud conversion off mine. It's brilliant for changing wheels but I'm not sure I'd do it again, it's not the cheapest and the nuts are surprisingly long.

Also, they advise changing them every year for track use or two years for normal use. Oh, and they recommend a specific high temp medium grip thread lock which is difficult to get hold of (I didn't bother)

 

[Ca11um43]

In

I've just taken the RacingLine stud conversion off mine. It's brilliant for changing wheels but I'm not sure I'd do it again, it's not the cheapest and the nuts are surprisingly long.

Also, they advise changing them every year for track use or two years for normal use. Oh, and they recommend a specific high temp medium grip thread lock which is difficult to get hold of (I didn't bother)

Interesting. Any ideas why they suggest all of this ? I did have a quick look at the RacingLine ones, but also found some other studs which look exactly the same, same length, etc etc for much cheaper. They don't mention anything about all this, but if they are the same, I'm guessing the same will apply. The only downside to that is finding aftermarket wheel nuts which fit standard wheels, or using them adapter washers Because RacingLine are the only company I've seen who make aftermarket wheel nuts for standard wheels, but they only sell them in the kit (from what I've seen) with the studs.

 

[MoToJoJo]

Darkside started doing them for standard wheels as well, click here.

As for why all the advisories? Technically RacingLine are right about the thread locker as it's the safest option, every time you undo the nut you're potentially applying the force to the stud as well so if a nut grips the stud you're effectively undoing the stud a bit. When I removed my studs they weren't that tight, not loose but it didn't take huge effort.

As for changing them, I think this applies mostly to the nuts. Something not often talked about is that as cool as alloy nuts are they aren't as robust as steel so changing them out makes sense. You could probably go longer than RacingLine advises but keeping an eye on them is essential.

 

[Ca11um43]

Darkside started doing them for standard wheels as well, click here.

As for why all the advisories? Technically RacingLine are right about the thread locker as it's the safest option, every time you undo the nut you're potentially applying the force to the stud as well so if a nut grips the stud you're effectively undoing the stud a bit. When I removed my studs they weren't that tight, not loose but it didn't take huge effort.

As for changing them, I think this applies mostly to the nuts. Something not often talked about is that as cool as alloy nuts are they aren't as robust as steel so changing them out makes sense. You could probably go longer than RacingLine advises but keeping an eye on them is essential.

Ahh, they're alloy wheel nuts...That makes more sense I've always been told to stay away from them, and I tend to stick with steel ones. I haven't looked in to it too much, but so far I've found some 80mm studs which I'm pretty sure are the same as the RacingLine ones, and some OEM style wheel nuts (steel) similar to the Darkside ones for around the £60 mark Does that seem too good to be true? Obviously they hold the wheels on, so I don't want to buy cheap/rubbish parts. But at the same time, I don't want to be paying more than double that for the exact same thing from RacingLine.

 

[Glosphil]

I still don't see the point of changing from bolts to studs/nuts.

As I said in earlier posts if it is just to ease changing a wheel then 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 studs temporarily hand screwed in after a wheel is removed enables the replacement wheel to be located. I use 2.

VW sell plastic or aluminium 'temporary' studs for around a couple of quid each.

 

[MoToJoJo]

I haven't looked in to it too much, but so far I've found some 80mm studs which I'm pretty sure are the same as the RacingLine ones, and some OEM style wheel nuts (steel) similar to the Darkside ones for around the £60 mark Does that seem too good to be true?

It depends on material strength and product finish, look into that first but beyond that no idea.

I still don't see the point of changing from bolts to studs/nuts.

As I said in earlier posts if it is just to ease changing a wheel then 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 studs temporarily hand screwed in after a wheel is removed enables the replacement wheel to be located. I use 2.

VW sell plastic or aluminium 'temporary' studs for around a couple of quid each.

From a practical standpoint, if you're taking your time then yeah, the temporary studs are the way to go. If you're doing quick changes then full stud and nut conversion all the way.

Stud conversions are more for track day/motorsport use. It's why I had them on and I only took them off as it's close to 2 years and I'm upgrading stuff again so not taking wheels off so much just yet. I will be converting my new setup.

For anyone else it's up to them if the money spent is worth it.

 

[Ca11um43]

It depends on material strength and product finish, look into that first but beyond that no idea.



From a practical standpoint, if you're taking your time then yeah, the temporary studs are the way to go. If you're doing quick changes then full stud and nut conversion all the way.

Stud conversions are more for track day/motorsport use. It's why I had them on and I only took them off as it's close to 2 years and I'm upgrading stuff again so not taking wheels off so much just yet. I will be converting my new setup.

For anyone else it's up to them if the money spent is worth it.

The studs say they're high grade 10.9 Then I assume the wheel nuts will be the same as any others. Here are the links for anyone else who's interested in them:

20pcs of Wheel Stud Conversion Kit M14x1.5x25 to M14x1.5x45 Thread 80mm Long | eBay

20pcs of M14x1.5x25 to M14x1.5x45 Stud Conversion Kit. 80mm in length. Easy fit, simply use an allen key to thread into the hub, your car is then converted to run nuts. This kit is to convert your car from running wheel bolts, to wheel studs.

www.ebay.co.uk

20x Black Open Hex Wheel Nuts R13 Radius M14x1.5 Fits OEM Alloys Stud Conversion | eBay

20x Black Open Hex Wheel Nuts R13 Radius M14x1.5 Fits OEM Alloys. This item is for 20x Black Open Hex Wheel Nuts R13 Radius M14x1.5 Fits OEM Alloys. Thread Size: M14x1.5. Suitable for R13 Radius seating OEM Alloy Wheels.

www.ebay.co.uk