Temperature going up to 130 degrees!

[silver surfer]

easy way to check your water pump is to take off the water return pipe to your coolant bottle start the engine and raise the engine revs slowly to around 3000rpm .if you got a good flow of water its not your pump if you've no water flow its your pump that's faulty

 

[James_R]

Good advice

easy way to check your water pump is to take off the water return pipe to your coolant bottle start the engine and raise the engine revs slowly to around 3000rpm .if you got a good flow of water its not your pump if you've no water flow its your pump that's faulty

The best advice you'll get on the subject, it'll take you 2minutes to check and you'll know for sure if the pumps faulty

 

[binkylad]

130 is a bucket load too high, i was under the impression ran colder than petrols... i wouldnt drive it at all until it was checked as it may end up with you handing alot more cash

 

[muddyboots]

If it really was running 130ºC, you'd definitely know about it - rad fans would be sat on, the coolant itself would be boiling & bubbling away in the header tank and leaking away resulting in coolant loss (you'd smell it too).

If you had vag-com, or could get someone with it to help you, you could quickly check the readings the ECU is thinking the coolant temp senders are giving.
If these were OK, it would point you at the guage.
If they were reading sky high, then it would be a duff coolant temp sender.

 

[Danneh]

What runs hotter, petrol or diesel? Typically?

 

[Leigh15]

I think that they're both probably regulated to the same temperature.

 

[kriso]

G12 raises the boiling point to around 135c so it probably won't boil over, altho you would still notice the rad fans.

Petrol and derv both run at 90c, but the petrol engine generates more heat and will get up to temp much quicker than the derv (the 1.8T is quite a bit quicker to temp than a 1.4 too).

 

[2 Many Ibiza's]

i had a Golf GTTDI with same engine and same problem, my problem was that the waterpump had gone, so changed that and the cambelt....and still same problem?, turns out when the waterpump gave up and the engine overheated, it made the thermostat stuck shut due to high temperatures of 130 degrees, so changed that too. Then that solved all the problems!

Just get it sorted asap! because if the head warps which it can at these high temps its looking v pricey as i hear they cannot be skimmed easily; needing a new head! (new complete head is £2200 from VW but if worst came to worst you'd find a recond head for a quarter of that!)

Good luck with fixing it.

Adam

 

[muddyboots]

G12 raises the boiling point to around 135c so it probably won't boil over, altho you would still notice the rad fans.

When the water pump went on my last Passat (PD130), the engine would overheat when it was under full load, and it definitely boiled....you could smell it, and whenever it happened, there was a noticeable drop in coolant level. That was with proper dosage of G12 in too.

In this case though, given that the temp gauge still reads 90 after the car has been stood for ages, then it's not likely to be actually overheating, it's a faulty sensor or gauge.

 

[muddyboots]

What runs hotter, petrol or diesel? Typically?

They run at whatever temp the cooling system regulates them to, typically around 90ºC.

 

[Nath.]

Unplug the coolant sensor in the engine bay, if the needle drops down to zero the gage is probably fine but the sensor is giving a false resistance reading. This will be the quick and easy way to diagnose the sensor or gage.

IIRC the needle should shoot up to max if you short the 2 sensor wires together with a paper clip. If the sensor only has 1 wire then touch it onto a good earth and that should shoot it up to max too. If you do this and you can see the needle going from zero to max then the gage is fine and the sensor is faulty.

 

[Paul16v]

Is the coolent sensor on the thermostat housing? not very familiar with these engines.
its stuck at 130 degrees at standstill now. flow of coolent is fine and heaters are nice and hot, so think it must be a gauge or sendor issue.

 

[beezanick]

I'd say its a faulty gauge, not anything mechanical, as i would have thought a warning would have comeon to alert you to that temperature. Also, the gauge not going back to 0 when the ignition is turned off confirmes this idea.