Toledo - Where the hell else can water be getting in?

NeilMcK

Active Member
Dec 31, 2007
69
3
Central Scotland
OK, so far I've cured 5, yes 5, leaks in my Toledo.

3 of the doors were leaking (will do last one when it's dry again).

Leak in top corner of windscreen (Thanks B&Q Sealant).

Leak through junction box above fuse box causing the car to break down.

It's now p**sing down again and I've still got the carpets partially up to dry out the sound deadening, and it's damp in the front passenger footwell!! [:@]

The pollen filter doesn't seem to be leaking, and I'd doused it with the hose and water didn't appear to get in.

It was lovely, while it lasted, having a car that didn't smell of wet cat.

Does anyone have any idea where the hell else this mobile sieve can be letting in water?

I've heard of a bulkhead sealing issue, but have no idea how to tackle that.

Any/all advice gratefully appreciated.

Neil.
 

ironside

Active Member
Dec 8, 2006
62
0
Hi Neil,
it's a sad fact that the one thing that spoils the Tolly & Leon is water leaks...
Looks like you have tried all the usual suspects as i did but the one that really tried my patience was the front passenger footwell leak,this is what i eventually did -takes about an hour and up to now (about 1 year all ok)
Remove wipers and black panel underneath them,check rain guides are clipped in correct place(2 'u' shaped channels) check drain holes at each end not blocked-mine looked ok but were blocked further down causing water to be 2" deep in scuttle area which then gets past seal under pollen filter and gets into heater box ending up in front footwell....
take out pollen filter and remove holder from underneath it 2 crappy plastic nuts and a shitty foam seal are all that hold back the tide-slap on some more of your B&Q silicone and all should be well,when you re assemble make sure the pollen filter is seated correctley the rain guides are correct under the black panel and most important the rain deflector over the pollen filter is in the right place. A well clued up garage who i use recon that nearley all the probs with leaks come from some cack handed mechanic not re fitting the cover properley after a pollen filter change,you can see why as it s a crap design,but does do its job when fitted right.
give it a try its worth it for the cat free smell!:D
 

NeilMcK

Active Member
Dec 31, 2007
69
3
Central Scotland
I'll give that a go, although the garage I bought it from said it wasn't, mind you, they couldn't fix the doors either, I had to do that myself.
Normally I'd throw the car at them telling them I didn;t want it back until it's fixed, but I need it and they point blank refuse to give me a courtesy car (small garage).

I've felt the pollen filter - it's dry.

I re-checked my windscreen fix - dry.

It's not coming in the doors I've done - Step is dry.

I can only think it's either the pollen filter or the bulkhead that's leaking.

I've currently got the back seat out and am drying under the carpets with old newspapers.

When cash is better I might just dry it out & trade it in for something else.

Apart from the leak I'm chuffed with the car, it goes well and has great economy.
 

mackers_89

Guest
im currently having the same problem with my seat. there is only water on the rear passenger floor. i tried to see where its coming in and cant find it. the front footwell is dry as a bone. the door seals seem to be grand.

Any ideas folks?
 

NeilMcK

Active Member
Dec 31, 2007
69
3
Central Scotland
I'd re-check the pollen filter as the water may just be running all the way back to the rear footwell.

Did you replace the door seals? When I did mines, I cut squares out of the door rubber under the drain holes, just in case.

Mines has been dry for a while now (touch wood) and if I'm honest, can't think of any other car that is so much better that I'm prepared to spend my hard-earned on so it's staying until something goes bang.

I never did do the pollen filter one, but what did happen is that my windscreen cracked after a stone hit it, and the guy who replaced it made sure it was well sealed, and it's been fine so far.

I'll see if it stays dry through the winter. My wiper linkage needs changed so will probably do it all at the same time.

Still going strong at 114k miles.
 

mackers_89

Guest
cheers neil,

no i didnt replace the door seals. i just made sure that they are on correctly and wernt easily pulled off again.

havent got to check the pollen filter yet. i have a wet dry hoover which i keep doing to it so that the car wont rot and the heater kept on.

and you where saying about the seals cutting squares to drain the water. could you explain this in more detail as im a bit simple. lol
 

NeilMcK

Active Member
Dec 31, 2007
69
3
Central Scotland
I think I may have spotted the error in using the term door seals.

When I said previously door seals, I didn't mean the ones around the door frame in the body, the problem is witht he seals that goes between the door frame and ancillary carrier. THe seal rots at the bottom as it's only foam, and when it rains the water that gets past the door window rubber gets inside the car.

To check these seals you need to remove the door trim.

The repair is easy, can be done with kitchen sealant, or better, there is a rubber sealing strip that can be got from your dealer.

There are guides on this site, I just can't remember the links :cry:

So, search on door seal repair and you should find it.

The cut out I did is that there are drain holes in the bottom of each door, and when the door is closed, they are blocked by the rubber seals. Clean out the drain holes, then cut a small square out of the seal where the holes are to ensure they still drain if the door is closed - my car sits for a long time, and water can build up otherwise. Don;t worry, water can;t get inside if you do this.

Both are relatively easy jobs without special tools. I think a torx, panel tool and a 13mm socket is all that is required to do the seal.

Good luck.
 
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