Turbo cartridge removal

[Kambo]

I've put it here even though its for my PD150 ARL lump as I imagine its the same sequence of events for the petrol guys




Trying to separate the CHRA cartridge from the exhaust manifold, I've taken off the garrett housing and the oil ring and sprayed some WD40 in and around where the oil ring went and left overnight but still no joy this morning, any tips on removing this, I think its stuck in there solid

 

[GTJEDI]

I had the same problem on my pd 150 turbo a couple months ago, I ended up just chapping the shaft but only because I was replacing the cartridge, wouldn't advise that if you want to reuse it.

AL

 

[Kambo]

Sorry forgot to mention I am buying a whole new cartridge assembly

So its ok to 'knock' it out then, was worried about do any other damage internally to the rest of the housing

Did you whack it from the exhaust end and through?

Cheers

 

[GTJEDI]

Yeah its quite awkward to get it sitting right, got someone to steady it while I chapped it. What's the reason for changing it?

AL

 

[Kambo]

Yeah its quite awkward to get it sitting right, got someone to steady it while I chapped it. What's the reason for changing it?

Yep worked a treat, cheers for that, balanced it gave it quite a few whacks and it started moving, I doubt the WD40 I put on last night actually did anything...

It's more for trial an error, the car still pulls hard, just the other day I had a boxster trying to undertake me but he soon gave up

On cold startup I've got what appears to be greyish smoke after a few seconds, it's quite pungent as well, also got the owl/siren sound from 2000rpm onwards, couple of boost pipes going to the intercooler looks like they were leaking as the join was covered in soot so got a couple of new ones. Intercooler must be quite sooty as well. EGR valve was sooted up just like anyone else's so will give that a clean. Am keeping the EGR as car is all standard with over 170k miles

So although the turbo spools up fine I'm guessing it's leaking oil and firing it round the houses and into the inlet? I think anyway

 

[GTJEDI]

To be honest you would be hard pushed to find a tdi without some oil in the intercooler system.

Are you cleaning out the vnt mechanism yeah?

AL

 

[Kambo]

Ahh this might be a waste of time then, at least I know a new turbo has gone in

Are you cleaning out the vnt mechanism yeah?

Is that the 'fins' behind the shaft? Yeah pulled them off and are cleaning them, took plenty of pictures...

Did you have to do anything different when installing the new CHRA? Straight in and bolt up?

 

[GTJEDI]

I took my turbo off because my vnt mechanism or vanes as they get called were sticking and caused the car to overboost and go in to limp mode.I only intended in cleaning the mechanism out but when I took the compressor housing off the compressor wheel had some small fractures on it going from the base of the fins out to the nut on the shaft,although it was boosting and running fine I decided to change the whole core as it was the easiest way.

Nothing was different puting it back together just a bit fiddly with all the little rollers and vanes that make up the vnt mechanism,as long as you get that right you cant really go wrong after that.

AL

 

[Kambo]

When you put your new compressor back into the housing did it just drop in or did you push quite hard to pop it back in

After it being difficult to get out in the first place the inner edges will be cleaned and I will put some emery paper to it but I'm not sure how easy or not the new compressor should slot back in?

 

[GTJEDI]

I take it you mean the new chra back in to the exhaust housing, as long as you give the rim that it seats in to a clean with wire brush or emery cloth it will pull in fine with the bolts.

AL

 

[Kambo]

I take it you mean the new chra back in to the exhaust housing, as long as you give the rim that it seats in to a clean with wire brush or emery cloth it will pull in fine with the bolts

Excellent, thanks for your help AL, much appreciated

 

[Gabster]

Yay helpful thread!
Im thinking to disassemble my turbo for cartage change + clean up,
It doesn't pull properly and sometimes specially on 2nd gear its a bit temperamental one day its boosting like it should second day it doesn't with engine warm ofc.
Could it be N75 valve playing up? I don't have that much mileage.
55 reg ARL 85k on clock.

 

[Kambo]

I would do the easier simple checks first like the boost pipes, mainly there connections

Take off the undershield (T20 or T25 torx screws) and check all the connection joins on the pipes up top and down below, those 'lugs' that hold the pipe in are notorious and will give up the ghost at some point, I don't think mileage even comes into it, it's just a design that could've been better done

Some people pop the pipes back on with a small amount of sealant (tigerseal/sikaflex) but don't go OTT with it as you'll never get the pipe off again

The hotspots for pipes not being secured properly is both in and out of the intercooler, the join to the hardpipe next to the intercooler out and the join from the pancake pipe to the intercooler in, up top it's the single pipe between the hardpipe and egr valve

So basically all of them are prone!

 

[Gabster]

Thanks Kambo Ill give it a try.

I replaced the lower suspension arms two weeks ago, I noticed some oil leak on the boost pipe that connects from the pancake pipe towards the intercooler so that is connected, the one from EGR is ok I checked that so i'll have to do the rest I recon.

I even went to get some new O rings to replace then all over the boost pipes but I realized that those are not your normal O rings.
Would you recon using a slightly bigger size round O rings that I'll have to squeeze in there be better than a sealant? And are the boost pipes all the same diameter ?

 

[Kambo]

Another popular place for leaks is the driveshaft on the box side so check there as well

I wouldn't use a bigger size o ring, chances are it will unseat itself as you push the pipes together, the oem ones are fine, I'm sure you can get them separate but I'm on my phone so don't have the part number to hand, if you do find it and it's only one part number then you know they are all the same size

However the joins are only as good as the 'lugs' and they do wear down but if they are still relatively tight then after a clean and new oem o rings just put a small smear of sealant on and around the lug only then your good to go

When the car runs normal do you have any noises like the usual owl/police siren/whistling noises when the turbo starts to spool at 1900 revs? Any noises at all?

 

[GTJEDI]

No they aren't all the same, the inlet and the outlet of the intercooler are the biggest I think the diameter of the pipe connection is 68mm, the connections on the opposite ends of those 2 pipes (in to pancake pipe and in to bottom of big black plastic pipe) and also both connections on the pipe at the egr are the same, I think these may be 65mm.

The connections on the red turbo pipe I'm unsure of.

AL

 

[Gabster]

Thanks for your input guys much appreciated

When the car runs normal do you have any noises like the usual owl/police siren/whistling noises when the turbo starts to spool at 1900 revs? Any noises at all?

Well, I thought the best thing to do is record the sound
Not sure what to compare to, I dont know anyone with ARL engine

 

[Kambo]

Errrrrm that sounds more like a tractor than a car!

 

[Gabster]

bonnet is open and well its a diesel lol

 

[Kambo]

Even my ARL with its bonnet down on a cold start it don't sound like that! but I know a tractor that does!

Something just don't seem right, I'll be interested to see what others think as I know my pc speakers ain't playing up