uneven brake pad on cupra tdi - concerned

[Toby Davis]

Hi guys,

Cupra tdi owner here on 147,000 miles.

Front pads and discs got changed (both mintex) about 60,000 miles ago.

Ive noticed the driver side brake pad has loads left compared to the passenger side which only has about half the thickness of the driver side.

I know 60,000 miles is a lot since they got changed, but the obvious diffarance in brake pad thickness is abit worrying.

Car brakes fine, doesnt pull to one side, passanger side brakes not smoking or getting very hot.

Should i be worried ? thanks all

 

[verbal_kint]

Car brakes fine, doesnt pull to one side, passanger side brakes not smoking or getting very hot.

Should i be worried ? thanks all

"Brakes fine" may not be true, more likely it is a problem that has sneaked up and you've grown used to it.

I would test that your calipers are working, I'd bet the drivers side is sticking so not applying pressure. At the last MOT was there any imbalance on the results, just not enough AT THAT TIME to make it a fail?

 

[Toby Davis]

"rear parking (secondary) brake imbalance requirements only just met.It would appear that the braking system requires adjustment or repair".

Got that as an advisory back in September the 1st.

Not sure what it meant.

Since then brake fluid change has been done (noticed handbrake improved after change only taking 4 clicks to secure car)

Rear brake pads and discs have been done.

Would i be best getting it booked into a garage for a check over ?

many thanks

 

[R3k1355]

When's the next MOT due??
You can stick it in a month before the due date, I'd do that personally.

A decent place will give you a print out from the brake rollers, or at least let you look.

They will pickup on any brake imbalance, if there is a sticking caliper you'll wanna refurbish both front callipers at the same time.

 

[Toby Davis]

Booked in for a check on tuesday.

Bloke said worst case its a new caliper.

My question, what would need to be wrong to result in a brand new caliper? seems extreme

How much will that cost?

How much should I expect to pay for new pads and discs for front + labour?

Want a better understanding of costs so I can be sure its a fair price.

thanks

 

[R3k1355]

Usually the seals around the piston perish, moisture gets in and you get a kinda gunk forming around the piston.
If it's left for ages rust can also form on the piston which can wreck it.

You 'can' refurbish the calipers, usually you just need a seal kit on them and a good clean up.
It does take a while to strip and refurbish tho, which is why a garage will install a new one to save on Labour costs.

 

[killbot]

a new caliper costs £750 from seat....

I've been there before after one of my calipers failed.

I have since fixed my old calipers up and so have a set of working ap racing calipers just sat in my garage after I bought a tarox big brake kit.

If the caliper is screwed you are best going with an aftermarket brake kit probably as the calliper can only be obtained through a seat dealer...

edit: nvm thought you meant the front calipers

 

[verbal_kint]

The secondary rear is more likely a sticking handbrake lever and with luck, spraying with copious amounts of penetrating oil and encouraging the lever to move could free it up. Worst case is that that caliper is also on it's way out.

Look on ebay and you can get repair kits for about £20 and new calipers for £70-80, I would even be tempted to buy a set of fronts (20v 1.8T) direct from Germany for £83 delivery included... say thank you to Greece for making the exchange rate so good

Personally the benefit of getting a new or recon caliper in is worth the extra over the repair kit, changing the whole caliper can be a really easy job if you have a few tools, especially a one-man bleed kit. I'd then keep the old caliper and take my time reconditioning it, repainting if that takes your fancy, ready for the next time.

 

[mgrays]

Go search DIY front brakes on here; front callipers are an issue awaiting to happen IMHO;

1. Brake fluid change every 2 years to keep the water out of them; otherwise they corrode/sieze internally.
2. Lift the outer dust seals and lubricate with red rubber grease every couple of years
3. Stroke all 4 pistons in/out with brakes and G clamp for a full stroke about 3-4 times.
4. remove stainless plates that the pads rest on.. all 4 per caliper and remove the corrosion, cover in Dinotrol 3120 or similar and replace the bolts.. as they likely need a welder to remove them (over weld an M12 slip nut over them with a MIG). The corrosion lifts them and then it jams the brake pads on as it pinches from the side.
5. Then trim the pads to make sure they only just slide in/out easily with a grinder..
6. remove the lips on the discs as it drags at inner/outer radial contact point with the pads.. makes 1-2 mpg difference IMHO.
7. consider reworking the spacer tubes in stainless to remove a corrosion issue.

But something to note is that the passenger side runs in the gutter so will be dirty.. and hence everything on that side wears quicker.. and there are more potholes to hit on that side..

I have 118k on an 05 in salty Scotland.. and need to do all those points to have healthy front calipers.

 

[verbal_kint]

Just a G Clamp? I'm only familiar with the MK1 range did they change from screw in?

 

[verbal_kint]

When's the next MOT due??
You can stick it in a month before the due date, I'd do that personally.

A decent place will give you a print out from the brake rollers, or at least let you look.

They will pickup on any brake imbalance, if there is a sticking caliper you'll wanna refurbish both front callipers at the same time.

That gets tricky, if you put it through the system and fails it will be on file, you then get stopped by the boys in blue and find that you have an unroadworthy vehicle and you know it (as demonstrated by the mot fail), then your existing mot will not protect you. I know it doesn't protect you anyway, but it might be the difference between getting a "fix-it" or a fine.

I'd be more inclined to pay a garage or friendly MOT station a few quid to just test the brakes and give results - not conduct a MOT.

 

[R3k1355]

Yes it it a grey area, and I did not say anything about continuing to drive the car.
What I was meaning is, you can get an MOT from places like Halfords for 30 quid, with the brake report.

30 quid tells you exactly what needs doing to pass the test, there's no point in paying for a brake test when it go's in for a test and they pull you up on emissions, bushes, CV/steering rack boots, rust, electrics etc etc etc.

 

[Toby Davis]

Hi guys,thanks for comments, noticed today that at times the brakes felt fine other times they felt "stiffer and less responsive like they should be, that cant be good right and an obvious sign somethings not right?

NO way am i paying that sort of money for a caliper as much as i would like to keep the ap calipers if the worst came to the worse.

no mention of the front brakes playing up at all last mot.

Tuesday i will find out though, just want to be sure the garage dont take the piss and say its a new caliper when its not!

 

[Toby Davis]

What calipers will fit if i did go aftermarket ?

Know very little about brakes, so a diy on the fronts is out the question. Done by back ones but wont touch the fronts

 

[verbal_kint]

The fronts are easier than the rears as you don't have to worry about the handbrake.

Getting calipers is easy, there are many manufacturers and even more that do recon units. You could look on Eurocarparts or GSF to get you a guide on prices and info then also look on ebay etc.

 

[mgrays]

Just a G Clamp? I'm only familiar with the MK1 range did they change from screw in?

The rear calipers need screwed/clamped to retract. The fronts have no hand brake mechanism so are plain pistons that a simple G clamp or levering against pad/disc etc will retract. I use a bit of wood to stop damaging the paint under the G clamp foot on the outside and if you go use levers be gentle or you will damage piston/pads/disks.