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I'm not actually convinced the arch liner mod is worth it as reading it up it seems as though the low pressure behind the cooler is an advantage to help the SMIC.
 
Best thing I's getting a direct flow of cold air ( tunnelling) to maximise the smic capabilities. And yes a uprated one with the metal end caps Is much better. But this reason alone I's why most resort to a fmic as it's got direct cold air and I's so much simpler to get the most out of.
 
I'm not actually convinced the arch liner mod is worth it as reading it up it seems as though the low pressure behind the cooler is an advantage to help the SMIC.

Low pressure behind the cooler + high pressure in front of the cooler (air pushed in by the speed of the car) = better flow through the cooler.

Low pressure behind the cooler = empty space to leave the air flow outside the car = cut vents.

The rotation of the wheel behind the SMIC draws air like a fan and aids to lower pressure.

~Nautilus
 
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Well I'm going to buy the turborevs / godspeed cooler.

I will see if can route some more air to it although I have already opened the air vent up and drilled out the fog light cover:

front-1.jpg
 
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@ Nautilus - thanks for the info. From what I've found out the only upgraded SMICs that will fit an LCR are very expensive. I'd be fitting them myself but the Tyrolsport ones are US$1195 before shipping, to the UK that's going to be even more expensive. So back to plan A for me (if i bother at all), probably just a generic FMIC.
 
This is a question I also want to see answered...

1. Take off right front wheel
2. Take off fender liner (about 6 screws)
3. Unbolt the reservoir for washer fluid and pull it up. Don't disconnect wires and fluid hoses
4. Pull of wire from MAP sensor (there is a small lock on it, push the lock withh thumbanil and pull)
5. Unbolt 2 bolts holding SMIC to frame, below the washer fluid reservoir
6. Unbolt 1 bolt holding SMIC to frame below the fender
7. Unscrew the clamps holding the lower IC pipe to IC and throttle body hose to IC
8. Pull the IC through fender towards back of the car
9. Clean IC
10. Follow the steps in reverse order

~Nautilus
 
You won't gain much from upgrading the side mount, its about the airflow and surface area, you may have a slight intake temp reduction but nothing like the reduction of fitting a fmic, to me it's not worth the time and hassle I'd just fit a fmic, I looked at smic's but ruled them out as not really being a benefit over standard, I just bought a forge fmic and retained the fogs, job done!
 
To maximise the smic you need to utilise the airflow like the tt mod above but you still will hinder yourself and suffer heat soak when wanting bigger power or even on a stage 2 map not even sure you can sustain a stage 2 with a smic, not wise anyway.
 
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This has been discussed already... For a KO3S an uprated side mount Intercooler is sufficient and has been proven.

Yes an FMIC is better for cooling but not everyone wants one.
 
How efficient is an uprated SMIC?

Test conditions:

-BoostFactory SMIC (due to similar size and construction, the results may be the same for Tyrolsport UGSMIC, Kraut-Burner Performance SMIC and Eurojet Performance SMIC);
-Turbo to fender charge pipe insulated to avoid heat soak from the red-hot exhaust below;
-SMIC insulated from engine bay;
-THS non-restrictive pancake pipe;
-Vents cut in the fender liner;
-Forge hose from SMIC to throttle body insulated.

Meter: intake air temp sensor values read from the OBD2 with a dongle and Torque Pro.

Driving conditions: >1 bar runs with speedy road drives in between.

Results:

Air temp (°C) ---- Intake air temp (°C)

0 ------------------------ 15
5.5 ---------------------- 18
8,5 ---------------------- 22
10,5 --------------------- 24
12 ----------------------- 24
13 ----------------------- 30
14,5 --------------------- 30
17,5 --------------------- 32
19,5 --------------------- 39
21,5 --------------------- 42
27,5 --------------------- 49
32,5 --------------------- 50
37 ----------------------- 54
38 ----------------------- 58

intake-temp.jpg


Assuming a temp of 120°C at turbo outlet, which is average for >1 bar turbos with moderate efficiency, but the real temps in the hot engine bay of the 1.8T with small and inefficient K03 and K04 rotors may be even higher, BoostFactory SMIC efficiency should be over 75% at high temps and around 85% at lower air temps, which is very good bordering on exceptionally good. "Suitcase" 600x300x60mm core FMICs on Nissan R32 may achieve about 88% and cool the intake air 10°C above atmospheric temps.
 
Also, if the intake hose (in the factory location, between battery and fender, but bigger) is insulated from the hot engine bay, the temps drop further.

Air temp (°C) ---- Intake air temp (°C)

24.5 --------------------- 33-36
25.5 --------------------- 36-37

Driving conditions: >1 bar runs with speedy road drives in between. At red lights, heat soak of the intake manifold (core IC is separated from the engine bay) raises temps to 42-45°C, stepping on the throttle drops them back to 33-36°C. After stopping for some time in a petrol station, heat soak raises the manifold temps to 60-72°C, a speedy highway run brings them back.

Insulative head-to-manifold gasket from New South Performance does not allow heat soak to bring the manifold to the 94-96°C of the cylinder head and block. Otherwise running time needed to cool it back would be much longer.

The intake hose, intake scoop/funnel behind the headlamp and lower part of the airbox have to be covered. Completely, from the intake scoop to the airbox, no gaps. I did it with Armaflex spongy insulation for pipes.
 
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