Upgrades necessary with a remapped car?

[DamoR]

I like many on here have a remapped LCR. What should be uprated at the same time to ensure nothing detrimental occurs to the turbo etc?

For example I understand that the OEM intake air hose can collapse on a chipped car and this should be replaced by a reinforced silicon intake hose.

 

[Scotty_b]

DV is the best think i can think of. The TIP, as its known, wont cause any problems, it just means your restricting air to the engine so you wont get the best from it. But it wont make it go bang

 

[karlosR]

i don't think there are any other mods that SHOULD be done on a re-mapped car but any that you do can't be a bad thing. mine hasn't been mapped (yet) but i've changed the TIP, top intercooler hoses and DV all for forge items i've also changed the filter for a ramair/raid jobby but took off the cold air ducting as my LCR felt a bit restricted/asthmatic with it fitted. i can't wait until next month, 40k service (bit early) and a re-map, sweet!

 

[DamoR]

I have a forge dv and seems to do its job well. I was considering a TIP. I currently have a panel filter but am still umming and arring about an induction kit (scotty will vouch for that!). I've heard a few people complain about the cold air feeds despite the idea that they should be healthy for the engine bay in keeping the filter cold. Have you noticed any power loss when stuck in traffic etc, or is it just the case that once you get moving again the engine bay gets its required cold air again.

Also, Karlos what setup have you got to hold your ramair firmly in place?

 

[Scotty_b]

I say get your airbox smoothed and put a larger air feed into it and you will be more than happy and it wont cost you very much at all. If your still not happy then go for and induction kit or similar.

With the remap i think air filters, hoses, dvs etc are recommendations rather than must haves as ive seen people use jubilee clips around the tip to keep there shape, looks cr4p but it works and cost bugger all!

 

[karlosR]

I have a forge dv and seems to do its job well. I was considering a TIP. I currently have a panel filter but am still umming and arring about an induction kit (scotty will vouch for that!). I've heard a few people complain about the cold air feeds despite the idea that they should be healthy for the engine bay in keeping the filter cold. Have you noticed any power loss when stuck in traffic etc, or is it just the case that once you get moving again the engine bay gets its required cold air again.

Also, Karlos what setup have you got to hold your ramair firmly in place?

whats the point of keeping the air as cold as possible for it then to be heated up and compressed by the turbo? the two intercoolers seem to do a good enough job of cooling the air down. i haven't noticed any power loss at all really either. i'll have to take some pictures of the filter, its held in place using a bracket that bolts onto the battery tray and the goes and bolts onto the MAF. because the forge TIP isn't as flimsy as the OE one there isn't any movement but i dont know if that will be the case once it has been re-mapped. dog-bone bushes next methinks!

 

[DamoR]

I will do a search on smoothed airboxes. Does anybody know where a guide for doing this is? Any details would be greatly appreciated guys.

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1176091#post1176091

This link highlights whats required

 

[Scotty_b]

Cold air = more dense = more fuel = more power. The whole idea of a turbo is to put more air into the engine so you can add more fuel into run quicker so the denser the air the more fuel you get in there.

In this weather it doenst make a big difference but in the summer months it makes a very big difference as the ECU pulls back too much

 

[karlosR]

i understand that, colder dense air = more power. but, cold air enters via filter, then goes into a cherry red turbo where its compressed and heated then passed through two intercoolers (haven't got the funds for a FMIC yet) before passing through the throttle body on its way to fullfilling its destiny. my point is that i can't really see the point of a few degrees when my car felt held back when it was receiving all this lovely cold air and happy as a pig in poo once it was removed. i still have the plastic OE trunking in place so it does get some cold air.

 

[UncleFester]

Unless you're driving a Cupra R then brakes are something you should look at with a remap. No point going faster if you can't stop quicker.

 

[karlosR]

fast road pads are a good idea on a LCR, uprated discs wouldn't do any harm either!

 

[Ruddmeister]

To answer the original question

Forge DV is sensible as the OEM Bosch unit is a known weak point, some people have run fine for thousands of miles without changing it but it's a sensible precaution.

Oil Changes as well as the recommend 10,000miles service consider one in between. If you don't want to get your hands dirty buy the oil yourself and get the change done very cheaply at a place similar to these http://www.nationwideautocentres.co.uk/bookmotlocatecentre.asp my local one had a deal at the time like £45 for labour and filter (I supplied the Oil) seemed good to me.

Apart from that wait till the following expire then upgrade;-
Tyres - change the awfull Pirelli's to something handy
Pads - Change to Ferrodo DS2500's and do the work yourself it's really easy

fast road pads are a good idea on a LCR, uprated discs wouldn't do any harm either!

Unless you go to 2 piece disks you will struggle to find an altenative to Brembo, someone said black diamond and EBC were going to do one (not sure they ever did).

Loads of places list them only to discover they are 312mm LC disks.

You'll be amazed what some decent pads achieve anyway

 

[karlosR]

i've got brembo cross-drilled discs on my LCR. i got them from TTS roadsport along with redstuff pads. once warmed up the pads are very good!

 

[Ruddmeister]

The only thing that would worry me with x-drilled is cracking, however the only time I really pushed the discs was on track and boy did they warp (Fine when they cooled though). IMO I would stay away from track use

 

[karlosR]

sorry to go WAY off topic but my discs have been ok so far, and they do get a hammering on a regular basis

 

[Ruddmeister]

sorry to go WAY off topic but my discs have been ok so far, and they do get a hammering on a regular basis

What on track?

My comments were based on track

 

[UncleFester]

To be fair if you're hammering around Milton Keynes when its quiet - i can't imagine a track day would be much worse on the brakes.

 

[karlosR]

no trackdays yet but "spirited" driving all the time, well once the engine is up to temperature!

To be fair if you're hammering around Milton Keynes when its quiet - i can't imagine a track day would be much worse on the brakes.

my brakes stopped me getting into grief on wednesday night, i nearly had a ovni mk3 beeza as a front bumper!

 

[Ruddmeister]

I can't imagine a track day would be much worse on the brakes.

We will have to agree to disagree.........track day vs road is as different as chalk and cheese in my experience.

 

[UncleFester]

We will have to agree to disagree.........track day vs road is as different as chalk and cheese in my experience.

I'd agree with you absolutely as far as normal day to day driving is concerned .... the thing with MK is there's no traffic lights / junctions on the dual carriage ways that criss cross the entire city, what that means at 6am is that you've near enough free reign to travel very quickly between roundabouts ( no more than half a mile between them) and your brakes take a real hammering because it's easy to get up to *cough* speeds that you'd not be able to see in a normal urban environment. When i got the car, i'd run out of brakes after the 3rd roundabout in a set of 6 ... instant fade and not confidence inspiring. Having moved up to the 312mm brakes with braided lines and redstuff pads, i can really feel the difference because no matter how many roundabouts i fly up to and brake for, there is no fade and my discs haven't warped. The last 288mm EBC set warped in under a week and that's just my daily drive. Can't comment on drilled and grooved discs because i'd never fit them - don't like the idea of having less brake disc material to absorb and dissipate heat with.

In the hands of a talentless amateur like myself, i can't see how i'd give them any more stick on a track type event because i'm already going as quick as my skill / conditions / car allows me therefore there's no way i could place any more stress on the braking system.

Anyway back on that other topic .... what was it again?