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Ah ok, my original seats had dual boxes, and then when I swapped them out for heated leather ones they also had dual boxes - so I just assumed they were standard fit!
What did you need to get the heated seats to work? Just the seats and the centre console with the buttons? Or is there a lot more to it?
 
What did you need to get the heated seats to work? Just the seats and the centre console with the buttons? Or is there a lot more to it?
I had @East Yorkshire Retrofits fit them for me - they need a full wiring loom to the seats, a new climate control unit (which needs coding), and depending on the seats the airbags in them may need re-pinning (as many MQB seats will fit, but have different connectors/pinouts).

Money very well spent mind you!
 
Frustrating call with dealer about heat issues remaining even after charge cooler replacement and resolving coolant leak. After chasing for a response for over a week.

Normally when I raise an issue they book me in.

Suddenly been told have to go through main booking team but never had to last 2-3 years whenever I’ve had to book my car in.

Even up to a month ago…

Sounds more like they’re not really interested, after I sent over screenshots of vent temperatures showing way out of wack.

Have to wait until April and I know what’s going to happen they’re going to scan it - no fault codes which I already know.


Then say everything’s fine and it’s gonna. Drag all through summer.

Annoying thing is I’ve had heat issues that are annoyingly prominent And easy to see every winter
 
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Some time ago I've found Cupra R like bodykit 3D model to print. Price was a bit high to me so I could not decide whether it is worth a shot but recently it got discounted by 50%!

Long story short I've ordered it and I've been printing it for two days now. Here is the first part completed. What do you think? :cool:

1770492377308.jpeg
 
And the plans dot look expensive either although tou have to have a printer and material.
 
Took the Cupra in for rust prevention treatment today… Krown near Dudley West Midlands. It’s a thick liquid sprayed on, which lasts longer than Lanoguard.

Wheels off, plastics removed and any dirt/mud cleaned/steamed off. Then a coating of Krown - over all places accessible - including inside doors, rear light housings, under bonnet etc.

They commented the car had zero rust on bodywork, but the front/rear subframes were a bit flaky - it’s not faired as well as Mercedes/BMW’s of the same age (8 years).

Happy it’s protected!!
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Second job of the week - TCU / ECU stage one on the 2018 pre GPF 300ST.

Already had a Racingline OEM+ map but no gearbox tune. Initially just TCU tune was the plan.. but.. as the racingline map is generic, I thought I may as well get a dyno stage one carried out along with the TCU.

The Racingline OEM+ was doing -

365 bhp @ 6100
488 nm @ 4500

The Performance Torque remap has now tweaked those figures up, not by a huge amount, but in the areas where you need it the most -

369 bhp @ 5950
555 nm @ 3350

A dollop more torque in a more accessible area of the Rev range, making it feel much livelier. The Racingline map was fine, but there are better results using a full dyno type tune.

Graph -

IMG_2925.jpeg


I’ve been using Performance Torque for 20 years (!) for various vans/cars, and have always had good reliable results.

My first remap (2006 Caddy 104 bhp DSG mapped to 140) was done at under 1000 miles, and after selling to a mate about 10 years ago, is still going strong on 175,000!!

Cheers
 
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Second job of the week - TCU / ECU stage one on the 2018 pre GPF 300ST.

Already had a Racingline OEM+ map but no gearbox tune. Initially just TCU tune was the plan.. but.. as the racingline map is generic, I thought I may as well get a dyno stage one carried out along with the TCU.

The Racingline OEM+ was doing -

365 bhp @ 6100
488 nm @ 4500

The Performance Torque remap has now tweaked those figures up, not by a huge amount, but in the areas where you need it the most -

369 bhp @ 5950
555 nm @ 3350

A dollop more torque in a more accessible area of the Rev range, making it feel much livelier. The Racingline map was fine, but there are better results using a full dyno type tune.

Graph -

View attachment 52847

I’ve been using Performance Torque for 20 years (!) for various vans/cars, and have always had good reliable results.

My first job (2006 Caddy 104 bhp DSG mapped to 140) was done at under 1000 miles, and after selling to a mate about 10 years ago, is still going strong on 170,000!!

Cheers
Is that ptorque in wolves?
 
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That looks like a lot of fun, doubt I will ever make it there but this year I am going to get a bit more kit for the play station so I can do some track work at home.

On a more Sedentary process I am today updating my OBD11 With all the Build Codes that @serdar_18fr kindly shared with me. so that i have a complete build list in the APP.