sorry mo i dont agree with the last statement. seems like we have all forgotten the purpose of a air filter, its to keep clean air entering the engine. cheap filters dont filter well. if you look at the filter test in the link, k&n are not cheap filters yet they perform badly, less power and more crap entering the engine. apexi are good filters but until i see someone with the same set up as me apart from having a apexi filter and running more airflow then i will stick to jetex, the magic number to beat in airflow is 228.9gs
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Which air filter / induction kit?
- Thread starter Mastodon2
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sorry mo i dont agree with the last statement. seems like we have all forgotten the purpose of a air filter, its to keep clean air entering the engine. cheap filters dont filter well. if you look at the filter test in the link, k&n are not cheap filters yet they perform badly, less power and more crap entering the engine. apexi are good filters but until i see someone with the same set up as me apart from having a apexi filter and running more airflow then i will stick to jetex, the magic number to beat in airflow is 228.9gs
As an interesting note, I decided again tonight to test if the cut-to-limp-mode fault was 100% reproducible, it is not. Took it up to 6000rpm (above where the fault normally occurs) in 3rd and 4th gear (on a private track) and not even a stutter. Pulled like a freight train right up towards the red line. Air temp outside was 7.5 degrees, when I tried last week it was something like 13 degrees, neither time did it cut out.
So why does it only seem to happen in daylight hours? Now I am wondering what the other variables I have not considered may be - the last time it went into limp mode was about 5000rpm in third gear, outside air temp about 12.5 degrees. Perhaps the MAF has an intermittent fault - trouble dealing with the increased volume that warm air has over cold air maybe. Whatever it is, this one has stumped even the best VAG mechanics so far. The best they could suggest was a list of parts to replace, a smoke test and a reflash back to the standard map. I think I will get the reflash, if only to preserve the life of the turbo and other internals, but I'm damn near certain there are no boost leaks, the thing just feels so damn strong, and on a good day it feels so healthy. Perfect smooth idle, pulls incredibly hard on full boost etc. Drives like tonight's make me remember why I fell in love with this car in the first place!
The new air filter is going on tomorrow, so I will see if that makes a difference. I am slightly concerned about how small it looks compared to the one that is on there, I will report back with my preliminary findings after giving it a bit of a drive.
So why does it only seem to happen in daylight hours? Now I am wondering what the other variables I have not considered may be - the last time it went into limp mode was about 5000rpm in third gear, outside air temp about 12.5 degrees. Perhaps the MAF has an intermittent fault - trouble dealing with the increased volume that warm air has over cold air maybe. Whatever it is, this one has stumped even the best VAG mechanics so far. The best they could suggest was a list of parts to replace, a smoke test and a reflash back to the standard map. I think I will get the reflash, if only to preserve the life of the turbo and other internals, but I'm damn near certain there are no boost leaks, the thing just feels so damn strong, and on a good day it feels so healthy. Perfect smooth idle, pulls incredibly hard on full boost etc. Drives like tonight's make me remember why I fell in love with this car in the first place!
The new air filter is going on tomorrow, so I will see if that makes a difference. I am slightly concerned about how small it looks compared to the one that is on there, I will report back with my preliminary findings after giving it a bit of a drive.
Fitted the new Jetex red filter this morning, slipped on easily enough. Had to A-team a mount to hold it up though, a one of those screw-tightened rings you use to hold them onto the air intake mount, fitted around the thin end of the cone, linked to a cable tie through the old mount for the airbox. Not exactly pretty but it supports the weight of the air filter.
The old cold air feed pipe is in, but I did not attempt to connect it to the air filter, it's full of crap which I don't really want blowing straight onto the filter. It's position about 2" away from the end of the cone, so there will still be cold air coming up and into the cone to a degree.
Even though the new filter is only rated for 250bhp it seemed fine at sustained full boost in third gear, in all honesty it was probably flowing a lot better than that old **** one that was on there anyway. It has a more hollow growl at idle now (from the front end, the Miltek is as bassy as ever) but the induction noise is just as good when driving.
Curiously, the car ran fine even when driven hard, I averaged about 24mpg although it was a short journey, just enough time to heat the coolant and oil, put it through it's paces and then cool it before returning home. Hopefully this new air filter will have solved the fault.
The filter that came off is now in the bin, I should have taken a photo of it really. It was a dark green cone filter with a circular metal collar around it's neck, almost like a small heat shield, and a bladed plastic vortex generator thing on the tip of it's cone (I thought it had an inverse cone like the one I just got, but apparently not), does this sound familiar to anyone? It had no brand markings on it, but the colour had me thinking it was one of those Green Cotton ones?
The old cold air feed pipe is in, but I did not attempt to connect it to the air filter, it's full of crap which I don't really want blowing straight onto the filter. It's position about 2" away from the end of the cone, so there will still be cold air coming up and into the cone to a degree.
Even though the new filter is only rated for 250bhp it seemed fine at sustained full boost in third gear, in all honesty it was probably flowing a lot better than that old **** one that was on there anyway. It has a more hollow growl at idle now (from the front end, the Miltek is as bassy as ever) but the induction noise is just as good when driving.
Curiously, the car ran fine even when driven hard, I averaged about 24mpg although it was a short journey, just enough time to heat the coolant and oil, put it through it's paces and then cool it before returning home. Hopefully this new air filter will have solved the fault.
The filter that came off is now in the bin, I should have taken a photo of it really. It was a dark green cone filter with a circular metal collar around it's neck, almost like a small heat shield, and a bladed plastic vortex generator thing on the tip of it's cone (I thought it had an inverse cone like the one I just got, but apparently not), does this sound familiar to anyone? It had no brand markings on it, but the colour had me thinking it was one of those Green Cotton ones?
Here's mine that I've fitted today - to be fair, sounds the absolute biz lol.
Was it raining by any chance when you fitted it?
Cheers mate, first think I've actually attempted on my car and to be fair I'm quite proud of myself lol.
Why isnt the BMC CDA mentioned anywhere? Are open cones considered to be better than any enclosed system?
Im in York with a free copy of vcds lite. I'd happily do this for a ride in your car!
Im in York with a free copy of vcds lite. I'd happily do this for a ride in your car!
Bah, I was driving to work last night and at about 50% boost the "!" warning light came on, nothing unusual was happening, no noticeable effect on performance, car ran fine for the rest of the journey, except now the light does not clear when the engine is turned off and on again. Looks like it's off to the garage again for another diagnostic!
Really not sure what the problem is now, I've almost completely ruled out turbo leaks, maybe a new MAF sensor would help?
I've read on another forum that the MAF sensor on these cars cannot create fault codes directly, is this true? If it is, it might be worth throwing a new one in to see if it makes a difference.
Really not sure what the problem is now, I've almost completely ruled out turbo leaks, maybe a new MAF sensor would help?
I've read on another forum that the MAF sensor on these cars cannot create fault codes directly, is this true? If it is, it might be worth throwing a new one in to see if it makes a difference.
Uh just a little. I started fitting it when the sun was out then after I pulled the airbox out the heavens opened!! So went back in the house and came out and tried again and it started pissing down again so kept going in and out. Took about 3 hours lol
I started the thread to find out what the best air filter would be for my car, given I was experiencing high rev cut out to limp mode. The point of me changing my air filter for a newer one was to help prevent the cut out, which so far has not reoccurred but now another fault has appeared, which may be related to the air intake, given it's never showed a warning light that would not clear when the car was turned off then on again before.
hello m8, clear the fault code, drive a little while with the maf unpluged, if this seems better then its your maf, you will get another fault pointing at your maf(beacuse its unpluged) after so many miles.
i had this same issue and a new maf fixed the issue.
Unfortunately I don't have vagcom to clear the codes myself so I'll have to take it back to the garage. Should have just bought the damn thing the day I got the car, might have been able to save a few headaches!
get one of these, i have one and its great, i leave it in the car at all times, i also have vagcom but only really use that for logs.
this will be the best £20+ you will ever spend
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAG-Car-Diagn..._Equipment&hash=item25649af68c#ht_1180wt_1139
this will be the best £20+ you will ever spend
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAG-Car-Diagn..._Equipment&hash=item25649af68c#ht_1180wt_1139
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