It wasnt show material, but it done me fine. I was running a 250w mono amp with 2 10" Kenwood Subs.
Cool, i got an Alpine 4 channel amp, with alpine type r sub and stealthbox to go in. Its gotta be better than the standard setup rubbish anyway.
A couple more things, my amp still hasn't arrived but my speakers have, so I'm getting a better idea of where everything goes now.
-When I've plugged the amp into the HU, where does the wire I've run from the HU reappear in the car? Somewhere under the glovebox or something?
-How do the wires get from the front to the back of the car? Does that involve removing panels as well, or is it under the carpets?
-When I've plugged the amp into the HU, where does the wire I've run from the HU reappear in the car? Somewhere under the glovebox or something?
-How do the wires get from the front to the back of the car? Does that involve removing panels as well, or is it under the carpets?
to find the cables from the HU, i would advise to undo the two screws at the bottom of the centre consol just infront of the gear stick (feel for them and you should find them). and slowly prize the front of the user panel off.
becarefull here because there is a small ribbon cable that is attached. detatch this and take the whole facia off. from here you can pull out the standard HU with all the cables attached.
from this:
remove your glove box and the plastic panel underneath it so you get full access to where the cables go and basically trace your way to them.
from this splice enough cable off to get to the new location of your amp, then rewire all the speakers back up to the HU and the amp.
to be honest you dont need to rewire the whole cars speaker cables if you do what i say above, basically use the existing wireing loom from the car and cut it before the HU connector. wire these to the amp and then rewire back to the HU plug.
if you do want to rewire the speakers system, then the plastic trim down by the side of the driver / passanger seat will 'pop' up and come off once the screws are take off, the cables run in a factory loom down the sills of the car. the rear passenger door cards will need to be either removed or semi unclipped to get your arm in (i did the latter as i think removing the whole door card will involve removing the rear seats) then from this you will be able to see what is next.
hope this helps a little
Adam
A couple more things, as you can probably tell I'm not the best at this sort of thing.
How do you remove the glovebox? I've unscrewed about 5 screws from in there now and it still won't budge at all.
Secondly, I'm installing components at the same time (when my amp arrives, at the moment I'm just testing things). How do I get speaker wire into the drivers door? Is there another panel that comes off so I can get at the rubber bit?
How do you remove the glovebox? I've unscrewed about 5 screws from in there now and it still won't budge at all.
Secondly, I'm installing components at the same time (when my amp arrives, at the moment I'm just testing things). How do I get speaker wire into the drivers door? Is there another panel that comes off so I can get at the rubber bit?
not too sure about the wiring in to the car door.....
but to remove the glove box, there is normally 5 or 6 screws, one or two at the back, two or three at the top and i think 2 at the bottom. once these have all been taken off (dont undo to catch screw its not necassary).
hold the catch with your fingers and pull down and towards you and it should semi hinge from the bottom, the glove box will then pull out. its pretty easy to do the whole job.
if you have never done wiring before i would allow a good 3 hours in the dry to get the job done. just for those little niggles. but tbh it should only take an hour and a bit.
but to remove the glove box, there is normally 5 or 6 screws, one or two at the back, two or three at the top and i think 2 at the bottom. once these have all been taken off (dont undo to catch screw its not necassary).
hold the catch with your fingers and pull down and towards you and it should semi hinge from the bottom, the glove box will then pull out. its pretty easy to do the whole job.
if you have never done wiring before i would allow a good 3 hours in the dry to get the job done. just for those little niggles. but tbh it should only take an hour and a bit.
Sweet well I'm looking forward to actually being able to give it a go instead of just asking continuous questions about it. I reckon I'm going to struggle with it, the closest I've come to wiring something before is fitting a new pickup in a guitar, but what's the worst that can happen eh? Apart from electrocution or blowing up my head unit.
thats a pretty good write up. i think the only bit that was left out was wiring in behind the trim on the passenger side beside the rear seat's that was the most tricky bit for me.
I know this probably sounds ridiculous, but how do I connect the power cable to the battery? There doesn't seem to be any space for it, there are already 4 black cables connected, and if I connect the power cable to a similar place the battery cover won't close?
For mine, i used a gold plated 'O' loop connection like below(the top ones)
The 'O' loop crimped onto some 8awg cable then you take off the Nut holding on the positive terminal on your battery put teh O loop over the bolt and replace the nut.
worked for me.
The 'O' loop crimped onto some 8awg cable then you take off the Nut holding on the positive terminal on your battery put teh O loop over the bolt and replace the nut.
worked for me.
Thanks a lot, I bought a wiring kit so it already has the connection on the wire, just wasn't sure where to stick it.
The bit I'm struggling with now is getting the wire under all the carpets and trim, I'm so close to just giving up and running it along the floor of the car. I really don't see how the wire gets from behind the glovebox to the boot, even the back speaker wire.
It's a bit of a nightmare this.
Also, with the wiring kit came an inline fuse for the power cable. My amp says it needs a 30A, but the fuses supplied are 40A, will they do or will I need to buy a 30A fuse? I think that's probably a stupid question, but I'm no electrician so I have no clue.
The bit I'm struggling with now is getting the wire under all the carpets and trim, I'm so close to just giving up and running it along the floor of the car. I really don't see how the wire gets from behind the glovebox to the boot, even the back speaker wire.
It's a bit of a nightmare this.
Also, with the wiring kit came an inline fuse for the power cable. My amp says it needs a 30A, but the fuses supplied are 40A, will they do or will I need to buy a 30A fuse? I think that's probably a stupid question, but I'm no electrician so I have no clue.
A bigger fuse doesn't matter I don't think...
Running the wires is quite easy. If you take out the console, glovebox, the little panel just infront of the passenger side door (there are 2 screws, and just pull away at it), take the screws out of the rear passenger side panel and then you can get your hands down and move it around.
Do you have the power cable through to the battery? If not there is a little rubber bit you can put it through (I found it easier from the engine bay side) and thyen stick your hand through the glove box and fell around for it and pull it through.
Then you can feed all the wires you need (basicly following a little brown wire that goes to the rear also) past the glovebox (leaving slack for the glovebox to fit in again), down that panel I told you to pull off, down the big panel down the bottom of the car (for this run the wire down the car without putting it in, then grab the bit of the wire closest to the front of the car and stuff it in under the panel, and work your way back (remember to feed it through the seat racks etc). Then when you come to the rear panel it gets a little tricky but you just need to think about what your doing. If you just follow the little brown cable you will be fine. Then that's it your at the back! PHEW!!
Sorry if some of that made no sence. I can take some pics if you want as I need to do it again because I forgot the remote cable
Running the wires is quite easy. If you take out the console, glovebox, the little panel just infront of the passenger side door (there are 2 screws, and just pull away at it), take the screws out of the rear passenger side panel and then you can get your hands down and move it around.
Do you have the power cable through to the battery? If not there is a little rubber bit you can put it through (I found it easier from the engine bay side) and thyen stick your hand through the glove box and fell around for it and pull it through.
Then you can feed all the wires you need (basicly following a little brown wire that goes to the rear also) past the glovebox (leaving slack for the glovebox to fit in again), down that panel I told you to pull off, down the big panel down the bottom of the car (for this run the wire down the car without putting it in, then grab the bit of the wire closest to the front of the car and stuff it in under the panel, and work your way back (remember to feed it through the seat racks etc). Then when you come to the rear panel it gets a little tricky but you just need to think about what your doing. If you just follow the little brown cable you will be fine. Then that's it your at the back! PHEW!!
Sorry if some of that made no sence. I can take some pics if you want as I need to do it again because I forgot the remote cable
No that's fantastic, but I think I've had enough of doing it today.
Firstly, I'm not sure what to do about the remote/RCA cables as the mini ISO/RCA adaptor that I have will only go into the HU if I take something else out, and I think that something else is the air con, which I don't want to sacrifice.
Secondly, the remote wire that came with my amp wiring kit has a really strange end to it, which won't connect to the remote part of the RCA adaptor, or anything else for that matter. Either it's broken, or wrong.
And I'm badly sunburnt so I have no patience and am uncomfortable.
Argh
Firstly, I'm not sure what to do about the remote/RCA cables as the mini ISO/RCA adaptor that I have will only go into the HU if I take something else out, and I think that something else is the air con, which I don't want to sacrifice.
Secondly, the remote wire that came with my amp wiring kit has a really strange end to it, which won't connect to the remote part of the RCA adaptor, or anything else for that matter. Either it's broken, or wrong.
And I'm badly sunburnt so I have no patience and am uncomfortable.
Argh
this is going to be a long post but hopefully it will get you sorted out. i may also go out to the car and pull up everything so i can take pictures to explain (if that would help you)
WIRING IN THE POWER CABLE.
from the battery disconnect the + terminal and use a 'O' connector on the end of the power cable to connect to the terminal via a nut and bolt.
once this is connected you should have a big loom of power cable in the engine bay. (please put some tape over the end of the wire to stop sparking / shock.)
ROUTING WIRE FROM INSIDE ENGINE BAY TO INSIDE THE CAR
this is easy. from the left side of the battery, look directly back at the firewall (passanger side of course), about a foot down there should be a rubber grommet (sp) about the size of a 2 pound coin. from this you should be able to pull this out from the fire wall and there should now be a hole going in to where the passanger footwell is. make a small hole in the rubber grommet (smaller than your power cable) and feed the length of power cable through the rubber grommet leaving enough slack to route the power lead and inline fuse in the engine bay.
once this has done push the rubber grommet back in to position and clean your hands.
FINDING WHERE ALL THAT CABLE JUST WENT
Now to find out where all that cable you just pushed through the fire wall has gone.
push the passanger seat right back and kneel on the floor next to the car. if you look at the glove box, go the the bottom then runn your finger along untill you find 2 screws one shoudl be on the left and one on the right.
Undo these screws and athe plastic plate should fall down. this will have a white block connector on it. dissconect the white block and remove the black plastic tray. from here you should be able to find all that power cable you pushed through from the front of the engine bay.
SOURCE FOR THE REM.
this is how i did it, and you can do it the proper way but i preffer it like this.
Under the drivers dash, there is a set of fuses for the function of the car. now as most of you knwo the REM pulls 12V and basically no current.
so find a fuse that is 0V when the ignition is off and when the ignition is on goes to 12v.
i put a small spade connector in the end of the fuse and taped it in there so it would not move. from here i then wired it to where the power cable was.
ROUTING THE REM AND POWER DOWN THE SIDE OF YOUR CAR.
now this is where it gets a little more time consuming (but not much) look down the passenger side plastic trim by the floor sil. there should be a few screws (cant remember how many off the top of my head) REMOVE all these screws.
now gently push the plastic towards the inside of the car to reveal some brass clips that clip on to the sill of the car. carefully put a screw driver down the side between the plastic and the sill and pry up the brass clips. (you can also remove these by pulling the plastic trim upwards quite hard but i thought i might break it if i did it like that)
now once that is removed you should see a little gap between the sill and carpet where the factory loom is located. wire your REM and POWER down next to the loom sercuring it in place with a bit of tape now and then.
ROUTING THE CABLE FROM BEHIND THE PASSENGER SEAT IN TO THE BOOT
now i think this was the hardest part form me and i can tell you a few choice words where said when doing this.
if you can be bothered remove the rear passanger seat (just the one behind the front passanger). i did not do this as it seemed a little too much effort.
Now go in to the boot and look up under the parcel shelf to where the left factor 4X6 speaker is (or would be if it has been removed) and pull the carpet back around that top area.
from here you should be able to see a wiring loom that goes to your rear lights and your speaker. this is where the power cable is going to come through!
get back in to the rear passanger seats and slowly prize the rear door card up (just diconnecting the top and side of the door card. you may find it easier to take off the whole door card.
you should then be able to see the wiring loom that goes to the back of your car, and a lovely thin sheet of metal that is your rear quater pannel!!
wire your REM and POWER along the standard wiring loom all the way to the back. you may find it helpfull to get wiring tape or a metal coat hanger and cut it just one side of the hook.
unfold the hanger in to a straight peice of metal and feed it through from the boot in to where you will be feeding these cables. (becareful not to damage your rear quater skin as you will notice it!!
now once your happy with you wiring down the rear quater tape the remaining cable to the metal coat hanger and carefully pull it through from the car in to the boot. (the reason for cutting the coat hanger slightly one side of the hook is that the hook keeps the metal in place).
once it is through take off the coat hanger leaving you with the two cables REM and POWER. now wire the cable down from where it enters the boot to the boot floor. i personally wired it under the boot lining. once here it nicely appears in the spare wheel well.
GROUNDING POINT.
there are so many in the boot i would not knwo where to start. i did the simple thing and took my spare wheel out of the boot and used the metal threaded bar that holds the wheel and that lot still in the boot for my grounding point. others have used the seat belt holding bolts. others have put bolts in the boot of their own. as long as you have a good earth that will not move about that is great
TBC. if this does not help you give me a PM and tell me where you live. if its not too far away i will come to you and do it for you and show you how to do it. or we can always meet half way if its too far.
if you need any more assistance eg pics and things please dont hesitate to contact me as im more than happy to help.
Adam
WIRING IN THE POWER CABLE.
from the battery disconnect the + terminal and use a 'O' connector on the end of the power cable to connect to the terminal via a nut and bolt.
once this is connected you should have a big loom of power cable in the engine bay. (please put some tape over the end of the wire to stop sparking / shock.)
ROUTING WIRE FROM INSIDE ENGINE BAY TO INSIDE THE CAR
this is easy. from the left side of the battery, look directly back at the firewall (passanger side of course), about a foot down there should be a rubber grommet (sp) about the size of a 2 pound coin. from this you should be able to pull this out from the fire wall and there should now be a hole going in to where the passanger footwell is. make a small hole in the rubber grommet (smaller than your power cable) and feed the length of power cable through the rubber grommet leaving enough slack to route the power lead and inline fuse in the engine bay.
once this has done push the rubber grommet back in to position and clean your hands.
FINDING WHERE ALL THAT CABLE JUST WENT
Now to find out where all that cable you just pushed through the fire wall has gone.
push the passanger seat right back and kneel on the floor next to the car. if you look at the glove box, go the the bottom then runn your finger along untill you find 2 screws one shoudl be on the left and one on the right.
Undo these screws and athe plastic plate should fall down. this will have a white block connector on it. dissconect the white block and remove the black plastic tray. from here you should be able to find all that power cable you pushed through from the front of the engine bay.
SOURCE FOR THE REM.
this is how i did it, and you can do it the proper way but i preffer it like this.
Under the drivers dash, there is a set of fuses for the function of the car. now as most of you knwo the REM pulls 12V and basically no current.
so find a fuse that is 0V when the ignition is off and when the ignition is on goes to 12v.
i put a small spade connector in the end of the fuse and taped it in there so it would not move. from here i then wired it to where the power cable was.
ROUTING THE REM AND POWER DOWN THE SIDE OF YOUR CAR.
now this is where it gets a little more time consuming (but not much) look down the passenger side plastic trim by the floor sil. there should be a few screws (cant remember how many off the top of my head) REMOVE all these screws.
now gently push the plastic towards the inside of the car to reveal some brass clips that clip on to the sill of the car. carefully put a screw driver down the side between the plastic and the sill and pry up the brass clips. (you can also remove these by pulling the plastic trim upwards quite hard but i thought i might break it if i did it like that)
now once that is removed you should see a little gap between the sill and carpet where the factory loom is located. wire your REM and POWER down next to the loom sercuring it in place with a bit of tape now and then.
ROUTING THE CABLE FROM BEHIND THE PASSENGER SEAT IN TO THE BOOT
now i think this was the hardest part form me and i can tell you a few choice words where said when doing this.
if you can be bothered remove the rear passanger seat (just the one behind the front passanger). i did not do this as it seemed a little too much effort.
Now go in to the boot and look up under the parcel shelf to where the left factor 4X6 speaker is (or would be if it has been removed) and pull the carpet back around that top area.
from here you should be able to see a wiring loom that goes to your rear lights and your speaker. this is where the power cable is going to come through!
get back in to the rear passanger seats and slowly prize the rear door card up (just diconnecting the top and side of the door card. you may find it easier to take off the whole door card.
you should then be able to see the wiring loom that goes to the back of your car, and a lovely thin sheet of metal that is your rear quater pannel!!
wire your REM and POWER along the standard wiring loom all the way to the back. you may find it helpfull to get wiring tape or a metal coat hanger and cut it just one side of the hook.
unfold the hanger in to a straight peice of metal and feed it through from the boot in to where you will be feeding these cables. (becareful not to damage your rear quater skin as you will notice it!!
now once your happy with you wiring down the rear quater tape the remaining cable to the metal coat hanger and carefully pull it through from the car in to the boot. (the reason for cutting the coat hanger slightly one side of the hook is that the hook keeps the metal in place).
once it is through take off the coat hanger leaving you with the two cables REM and POWER. now wire the cable down from where it enters the boot to the boot floor. i personally wired it under the boot lining. once here it nicely appears in the spare wheel well.
GROUNDING POINT.
there are so many in the boot i would not knwo where to start. i did the simple thing and took my spare wheel out of the boot and used the metal threaded bar that holds the wheel and that lot still in the boot for my grounding point. others have used the seat belt holding bolts. others have put bolts in the boot of their own. as long as you have a good earth that will not move about that is great
TBC. if this does not help you give me a PM and tell me where you live. if its not too far away i will come to you and do it for you and show you how to do it. or we can always meet half way if its too far.
if you need any more assistance eg pics and things please dont hesitate to contact me as im more than happy to help.
Adam
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