Is the Jabba remap 100% custom then or is that a tweaked generic map?

All the products have strengths and weaknesses, I think Revo, Apr, Jabba and Custom code all make good products.....

Jabba and Custom Code use a tailored or customised base map for Stage 1 tuning. They DO NOT use the same base map I'm just making the point they don;t start with a clean sheet of paper for YOUR car.

The approach of Jabba and Custom Code, the tools they use, methods of working etc are very different from each other.

Here's an example of how 'Custom' tuning could be achieved........ lets call it Ruddmeister Motorsport Custom Remaps, my garage could procure a base map from a big European tuning outfit like say Dimsport, then use tools to tweak (air, fuel, boost).......Once my mechanics have tweaked one car they know what tweaks works work best I guess......so the first car takes a while but then we are 95% there for the cars that follow....so we start at the 95% developed point make some adjustments and Voila your car has a custom remap.......(excluding any 'issues' that arise with individual cars)......Not all tuners are the same and the above describes one process / solution to custom tuning......
 
I only use High Ron stuff

Personally, I've found the Tescos stuff to be crap compared to Optimax, or even Normal 95. Anyway, when you have the Revo code uplaoded you can ask for it to be set to Normal or Super Unleaded. If you also buy an SPS2 or SPS3, you'd be able to change that setting yourself.

what do you think about the intercooler advice i was given?

I think there's better ways of reducing the top end fade feeling, having it set up correctly is one thing, but a Samco (or other) turbo intake pipe or TIP (which is actually a hose, not a pipe) and a larger airfeed/panel filter is another that seemed to work for me.

For a road going LCR, I wouldn't bother with an FMIC, until you start thinking about Stage 2 (Exhaust, Air Filter etc). Quite a few people would say short shifter, dog bone mount [for the money these two make a big difference] and then it's be a toss up between vag-com (or similar) or a rear ARB. Then the other stuff.

Stretch79 said:
the grapevine that the trial is more aggresive than the actual map, not sure how true this is mind!

Not true at all, it's the other way round - the trial is less agressive than the full code. Read m0rk's post, Post #2

ruddmeister said:
If you want a less aggressive smoother code then Apr comes highly recommended

Not knocking any tuner (or anyone's opinion), but everyone always says "Revo more agressive" and "APR smoother" and that "Jabba holds the revs better", but if you've ever driven any there's nothing between them. Even if you look at plots, there's nothing in it. Especially with Stage 1.
 
Not knocking any tuner (or anyone's opinion), but everyone always says "Revo more agressive" and "APR smoother" and that "Jabba holds the revs better", but if you've ever driven any there's nothing between them. Even if you look at plots, there's nothing in it. Especially with Stage 1.

I drove Sie (Yermother) car which is APR and agree there isn;t much difference but I did think it was a bit smoother :shrug: we are talking 5-10% smoother not 50%
 
Quite a few people would say short shifter, dog bone mount [for the money these two make a big difference] and then it's be a toss up between vag-com (or similar) or a rear ARB. Then the other stuff.

Ok forgive my ignorance
I know what a short shifter is and i've been thinking of getting one

I've heard a lot about dog bone mounts, can some quickly explain what they are, where they go and what they improve?

Not sure what a rear ARB is either
 
Ok forgive my ignorance
I know what a short shifter is and i've been thinking of getting one

I've heard a lot about dog bone mounts, can some quickly explain what they are, where they go and what they improve?

Not sure what a rear ARB is either

ARB = Anti-Roll Bar stops the rear end flexing and rolling

Dog Bone Engine mount or Transmount, It replaces the This center/rear lower mount makes the car feel more 'connected' and it puts it's power down more cleanly
 
yeah that makes sense, car feels a bit too crazy when boosting
How much am i looking at to do the dog bone?

Also is it stealth? or would i need to tell insurance company ;o)
 
Coming from a Revo'd Ibiza I find the Revo map on my LCR super smooth. The ibiza was mad, massive kick but tailing off early. My leon pulls really well right round to the redline, peaks over 20psi, holds 18 dropping to 16psi near the redline.
 
If you're up in Scotland have you tried Star Performance? They seem to have a good reputation

i looked to them initially but they didn't offer a trial. In the end i opted for the revo trial. I wasn't impressed with the trial however so contacted Star who informed me they would charge £100 + vat on top of the remap to remove the remnant of the revo software. So i stuck with revo.
 
How much am i looking at to do the dog bone?

Also is it stealth? or would i need to tell insurance company ;o)

you can do just the bushes for about £18.

as for stealth youd only see it if someone drove over you in your own car
 
Thanks for this info about the bushes

On a scale of 1 to 10, 1 being poor. how noticable is this upgrade

Anyone care to comment
 
You'll notice the bush straight away cos you'll get much more vibration from the front end on take off.
This does settle a bit with time after a few months.
I think everybody would agree it's a big improvement, although some can't live with the vibration, but for the sake of £18 and 1/2hr or so under the car it's definately worth trying
 
i looked to them initially but they didn't offer a trial. In the end i opted for the revo trial. I wasn't impressed with the trial however so contacted Star who informed me they would charge £100 + vat on top of the remap to remove the remnant of the revo software. So i stuck with revo.


What a load of bullshit, 100 quid to remove remnants of revo. You could of asked revo to flash back to a stock file, I think they were just trying it on, I have never heard this before.

As for the dogbone bushes, I have got the eip dogbone mount with the bushes and I did not even notice any extra vibration, sometimes if they are torqued up incorrectly this could cause extra vibration.
 
The dog-bone mount bushes (I put the powerflex ones in a stock mount) also seemed to improve the gear change and the turn a little bit on mine.
 
You'll notice the bush straight away cos you'll get much more vibration from the front end on take off.
This does settle a bit with time after a few months.
I think everybody would agree it's a big improvement, although some can't live with the vibration, but for the sake of £18 and 1/2hr or so under the car it's definately worth trying


if this is the dog bone mount there are two approaches:

1) the use the existing dog bone mount and replace the bushes with harder one. (i think this is what you refer to as £18 is cheap).
i have heard vibration is a problem from this upagrade.

2) more expensive, but doesnt suffer from the vibration issue is to replace the hole mount rather than the bushes to an uprated type.
as the bushes are not so hard i believe you get the improvement without the vibration issues.
 
I've heard of vibration "issues" with both types.

The reason the dogbone has rubber bushes in it is to reduce the vibrations transferred from the engine to the body.

Stiffen up the bushes and vibrations will increase.
 
I'm opting initially to do just the powerflex bushes. I'm gonna try and chuck them on over the weekend (time permitting and equiptment permitting). I'll let you know my verdict re. vibration, noticeability when i've got them on.
 
The hardest thing in putting them on is actually clamping the new bushes together to get the nut on, you could do with a vice or something. I used a ratchet strap and that worked a treat