DPJ's GTRS Eliminator Install and Development

[DPJ]

this should do the trick, im pretty sure the ID widths should be correct http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/STRAIGHT-REDU...hZ008QQcategoryZ72205QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem

The ATP one I have is 80-63. The issue is whether I could squeeze 76 mm on the outlet. The coupler I held up against the oval earlier on is 70mm and it doesn't look that far off :shrug.

Forge do 80-70. I wonder if I'd get the 70mm to seal / stay on the 63mm inlet.

 

[DPJ]

Perhaps I could cut cut a sleeve of 63mm hose, put it on the metal inlet, then use a 80-70 reducer with the 63mm sleeve inside the 70mm end.....

 

[PhilW]

Are you saying the inlet drops down to a 63mm ID after the oval casting?

I thought it was 3" pipework not 2.5" Or have i got that wrong?

I'd go for the sleaving option personally.

 

[DPJ]

Are you saying the inlet drops down to a 63mm ID after the oval casting?

I thought it was 3" pipework not 2.5" Or have i got that wrong?

I'd go for the sleaving option personally.

Yes Phil (it surprised me when I went to measure it) the compressor inlet on the turbo is 53mm id. The inlet that bolts onto it has the same id (but flares out at the end to meet the air) and 63mm od - it's straight. I believe there is an inlet that widens from 63mm to 75mm.

I'm warming to the idea of sleeving, I could perhaps glue one inside the other. The larger dia reducer (80-70 should have bit more flex than 70-63). I've emailed Peter at Forge to find out how long they are.

 

[PhilW]

The reason i'm asking is do you actually need the 3" inlet kit, would that same result be acheived with a 75-63 reducer onto the turbo inlet then a hard pipe out of that which would sit above the shifter cables.

 

[DPJ]

The reason i'm asking is do you actually need the 3" inlet kit, would that same result be acheived with a 75-63 reducer onto the turbo inlet then a hard pipe out of that which would sit above the shifter cables.

With the oem shifter cable bracket in place, the 75mm end of the reducer would be sitting smack against the bracket. The bracket is about 45mm tall, so you wouldn't get the 75mm pipe over the top.

 

[PhilW]

Hmmm, i wonder if it can be done tho as a reducer will roughly be the same length as the fabircated 3" inlet you with the kit, so it will be like a 3" standard TIP in the path it follows.

I'm a bit lucky as i dont have various rubbish sat in the way such as combi valve and various pipework.

 

[DPJ]

Hmmm, i wonder if it can be done tho as a reducer will roughly be the same length as the fabircated 3" inlet you with the kit, so it will be like a 3" standard TIP in the path it follows.

A very feasible alternative would be a 3" pipe straight off with a bridging bracket carrying the shifter cables above it.

 

[PhilW]

Any progress dave?

 

[DPJ]

Forge's 80-70 is 125mm long. - I'm going for that with a reducing sleeve inside. The shape of the Forge one 'should' suit what I'm trying to do better.

 

[DPJ]

Postal strike.

 

[PhilW]

Lol. Bloody typical that dave.

I hope my rods dont take ages to come from the US either.

 

[DPJ]

Lol. Bloody typical that dave.

I hope my rods dont take ages to come from the US either.

Yep, my silicon should have arrived today.

I got my injectors in a week from USRT in the states - hopefully your rods will be similar.

 

[PhilW]

Thats good to know. I'm gettin them from BoostFactory who are based in New Jersey so in theory they wont have to come across the width of america first.

 

[DPJ]

Without the hoses that 'might' make it all come together, I set to on a few little jobs, including making a bolt that would hold the bottom of the compressor inlet flange to the turbo.

With the ATP big bore inlet and brackets out, I took time to weight the thing up. Long term, the big bore has got to go. I was about to set to with a grinder to lower its legs, but I decided I'd be better to leave it whole and flog it on ebay.

Here's the Big bore with my brackets.

There is definitely room for a 70mm id hose to run underneath the shifter cable bracket if the bottom plate had a channel cut through it.

I need to get some plates fabricated that would then carry the shifter cable bracket over the top, using the mounting points of the bottom plate.

Strange too, ATP claim it's 3" ovalised. If you look at the following, it's smaller than a 70mm hose.

 

[wild willy]

That looks good Dave, why won't it work. you can use some steel band it to secure the round to the oval.
I've been trying to persuede Forge to manufacture a Big turbo solution to intakes. The majority of their silcon standard fitments should do the trick, they just need to manufacture a mid section to deal with all the branch pipework.

 

[DPJ]

That looks good Dave, why won't it work. you can use some steel band it to secure the round to the oval.
I've been trying to persuede Forge to manufacture a Big turbo solution to intakes. The majority of their silcon standard fitments should do the trick, they just need to manufacture a mid section to deal with all the branch pipework.

I think it'll work Willy if the Forge reducer I've ordered will flex sufficiently to go from oval to compressor inlet. That'll get it on the road.

I'm going to get a one piece bridge-bracket made though that'll go over a round pipe. Surely the bigger the straight pipe I can get on the compressor, the easier I'll make power.

I agree on the DIY approach to making a good TIP. ATP's ain't pretty (below) , but it's functional. I'm sure the concept could be improved on.

 

[DPJ]

While checking things over, I was alarmed at how close the turbo oil drain pipe was to the driveshaft coupling. I decided I'd take the pipe off again and apply a bit of heat while I bent it upwards a bit.

Great, lost the ****ing gasket off the turbo end. Tomorrow morning, I will mainly be out shopping for gasket material.

*** For anyone looking at installing a GT28RS, the two boltholes that secure the oil drain are M8, but the holes in the KO3S oil drain (and K03S) are M6. If you've bought an ATP kit, there should be two studs that are M8>M6. Mine weren't there and I've read on Vortex that they can be missing. I drilled the oil drain holes out so I could use M8 socket head screws.

 

[m0rk]

*** For anyone looking at installing a GT28RS, the two boltholes that secure the oil drain are M8, but the holes in the KO3S oil drain (and K03S) are M6. If you've bought an ATP kit, there should be two studs that are M8>M6. Mine weren't there and I've read on Vortex that they can be missing. I drilled the oil drain holes out so I could use M8 socket head screws.

the studs are cheese metal anyway, I cross threaded it by hand.. - did exactly as you have there

 

[DPJ]

the studs are cheese metal anyway, I cross threaded it by hand.. - did exactly as you have there

Cheers Mark. Oh well, if there's something to be cross threaded, I'd have done it.

Should I be ok with an average gasket paper on the oil drain? I've read that 0.8mm is good for 290 degrees.