This sounds like it's the chain between the two cams at the other end of the head to the cambelt. The VVT tensioner operates on that.

Can't think why they're fiddling with that when they are changing the cambelt...... Either they haven't given you full info, or you're misunderstanding them. :shrug:
 
thanx dpj
they deffinatly said that, what do you think it could be are they hiding something ?
 
DPJ..

The tensioner is a little gas strut which is bolted to the head, and acts onto the cambelt tensioner pulley which is secured to the head by a bolt (M10 or M12 I cant remember off hand)

There is no room down the side of the engine to try and drill out anything. Retapping maybe with stubby tap handle possibly.

they maybe mean the tensioner pulley has stripped or the tensioner itself which is held onto the block by 2 smaller M8 sized bolts.
 
DPJ..

The tensioner is a little gas strut which is bolted to the head, and acts onto the cambelt tensioner pulley which is secured to the head by a bolt (M10 or M12 I cant remember off hand)

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I've done a couple of 1.8T cambelts Bill. I should take more notice, I thought the tensioner was bolted to the block, not the head.... :redface:
 
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Looking at this pic, I'd have said the tensioner was bolted to the block..........
crank.jpg


Is the timing belt idler pulley on the head?
 
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You dont think they might have mis-timed the engine back up,and bent a few valves,thus coming up with the story of the head having to come off?? Hope its not though,but they seem to be stalling a bit..
 
i agree sounds like they might have mistimed engine causing damage!!!!
 
The tensioner roller does bolt to the head, the gas strut to the block

VERY VERY GOOD SUGGESTION ABOUT THE TIMING.
Thats the only reason i'd put down for taking the head off, they'd have to get the timing out by a fair few teeth because the 20vt can still run when the timing is out by a small amount. As for having to remove the head to re-tap it? theres more than enough room if the mount is removed and the engine jacked up.

Doing a belt change on a 20VT looks a bit of a ball ache but there not too bad once all the fuel, coolant and other pain in the ass pipes are out of the way, but if the timing has been moved alot and the valves have hit then its a big job to remove the head and a very fiddly job to remove the valves and collets. I've also seen it where the gas strut blows its seals and leaks all the oil out and becomes weak then doesnt return to its origional position and when the engine is turned by hand the timing appears normal but when the engine is started and ran it knocks the timing out significantly - enough to knock the head off a valve or two - this could be whats happened in your case.
 
........VERY VERY GOOD SUGGESTION ABOUT THE TIMING.
Thats the only reason i'd put down for taking the head off, they'd have to get the timing out by a fair few teeth because the 20vt can still run when the timing is out by a small amount. As for having to remove the head to re-tap it? theres more than enough room if the mount is removed and the engine jacked up.

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Yes, I'd agree, very very good suggestion. :yes:
 
Looking at this pic, I'd have said the tensioner was bolted to the block..........
crank.jpg


Is the timing belt idler pulley on the head?

tensioner on the block, idler roller on the block, tensioner pulley on the head.