but its not just tyres that can be affected... Tyre Pressures and Tracking and Suspension also affect grip.

+1

can't beat at the very least a wheel alignment check as dare i say some well known tyre companies offer it free for starters, not that i would go there mind you

mines wearing it's winter rubber still (federal cheap crap) but with proper pressure/alignment and all new all round i'm actually quite impressed how they grip still in all honesty so i'll change em back when i can be bothered
 
Got Dunlop SP9000's on my chipped Altea tdi. Okay its 100bhp less than the Leon in question, but I have no problems with them, in fact its the third pair I've put on the front. Its a company car which rarely does over 35mpg so gets driven very hard (diesel)! I'm no mug behind the wheel either, drove my 1st rally 20 years ago & still compete now. Don't know if SP9090 are any different but 9000 Sport are great. Tried all sorts of tyres over the last nine years and the Dunlops are better than most, didn't rate Toyos, Falken or Avon ZZ3, Yoko 539 & Kumho Ecsta were positively dangerous. Tried Goodyears and didn't find them standing out - only lasted me 5k miles though so didn't have them again!
Don't think its a tyre problem, more like a driver problem. Plenty of very good Irish tarmac rally drivers, go and find some advice!! ;)
 
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ok.....

T1-R's get my vote, good in the wet and dry

having put shitty budget tyres on my old golf valver, it was frightening in the wet, especially when going round long sweeping corners, even at a reasonable speed, you could feel the car begninning to aqua plain

budget tyres are meant for budget cars

also as you say, if you have an aggressive map, and its in the wet, then it is going to naturally spin up. If it is anything like my Revo stg1 on my Ibiza, that was very aggressive, and silly driving in the wet

I think we are all in agreement, putting the power down in the wet is not as simply as planting the right foot, moreover a featuring of the throttle and feed the power in slowly avoiding any power surges, especially as these are more aggressive on remapped turbo aspirated engines that tend to boost higher with more torque and prone to torque steer, even after all this your are still reliant on the road surface/temperature/tyres/PSI/tracking/weigh of the vehicle etc...

But i am still interested in improving this where ever possible, tyres are number 1 on list so its the, Flakin's, Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta or the Eagle F1 Asymmetric that i am gonna read up on and get a full set, i had the toyos Tr1 before and the eagle F1s GSD3's, not a bad tyre at all at all, but i always like to try something new, sometimes it pays off sometimes its doesn't(dunlop SP's for example)

In addition, there are a few posts about putting on a LSD differential and from the limited posts and web pages i have read, it is supposed to reduce torque steer(not nice in the wet, i know!) and wheel spin, so one of these maybe on the list also, only £585, but if helps i think over a few sets of tyres you may see some of your money back.

http://www.quaife.co.uk/Seat-Leon-Cupra-20V-Turbo-00-05MY-Quaife-ATB-Helical-LSD-differential

not sure if anyone would care to comment on there expierence of the Quaife LSD.
 
Got Dunlop SP9000's on my chipped Altea tdi. Okay its 100bhp less than the Leon in question, but I have no problems with them, in fact its the third pair I've put on the front. Its a company car which rarely does over 35mpg so gets driven very hard (diesel)! I'm no mug behind the wheel either, drove my 1st rally 20 years ago & still compete now. Don't know if SP9090 are any different but 9000 Sport are great. Tried all sorts of tyres over the last nine years and the Dunlops are better than most, didn't rate Toyos, Falken or Avon ZZ3, Yoko 539 & Kumho Ecsta were positively dangerous. Tried Goodyears and didn't find them standing out - only lasted me 5k miles though so didn't have them again!
Don't think its a tyre problem, more like a driver problem. Plenty of very good Irish tarmac rally drivers, go and find some advice!! ;)

100bhp is quite a lot not even mentioning the torque, so i don;t really think there is any comparison to be had here, we both would have completely different experience with this tyre due to the completely different setups we are running.

Everybody seems to have a different experience/opinion, this is half the battle, still though it has mostly been negative feed back regarding the dunlops, so majority rule, unless we are all wrong.

P.S also found the GY to wear quickly but i i thought they were ok apart from that.
 
100bhp is quite a lot not even mentioning the torque, so i don;t really think there is any comparison to be had here, we both would have completely different experience with this tyre due to the completely different setups we are running.

Everybody seems to have a different experience/opinion, this is half the battle, still though it has mostly been negative feed back regarding the dunlops, so majority rule, unless we are all wrong.

P.S also found the GY to wear quickly but i i thought they were ok apart from that.


Absolutely, just relating my experience of Dunlops. How people can say that Falkens are better than Dunlops I'll never know, but perhaps I don't know what I'm talking about....
 
i had one of them when i was 17! oh my god, 12 years ago! now i feel old!
i could spin it in third in the wet...


...although i had the 1.1 and had 60bhp but the 135 width tyres don't help either:lol:

Your just a Road Hog :D & with those extra CC's & Bhp, Your lucky you did not kill yourself :p

Dean
 
I can help you out with a LHD Seat Leon 1,8T 180 hp with 4x4:D People get easily 300 hp form them in Denmark, but the weight of 1600kg sucks
 
I think we are all in agreement, putting the power down in the wet is not as simply as planting the right foot, moreover a featuring of the throttle and feed the power in slowly avoiding any power surges, especially as these are more aggressive on remapped turbo aspirated engines that tend to boost higher with more torque and prone to torque steer, even after all this your are still reliant on the road surface/temperature/tyres/PSI/tracking/weigh of the vehicle etc...

But i am still interested in improving this where ever possible, tyres are number 1 on list so its the, Flakin's, Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta or the Eagle F1 Asymmetric that i am gonna read up on and get a full set, i had the toyos Tr1 before and the eagle F1s GSD3's, not a bad tyre at all at all, but i always like to try something new, sometimes it pays off sometimes its doesn't(dunlop SP's for example)

In addition, there are a few posts about putting on a LSD differential and from the limited posts and web pages i have read, it is supposed to reduce torque steer(not nice in the wet, i know!) and wheel spin, so one of these maybe on the list also, only £585, but if helps i think over a few sets of tyres you may see some of your money back.

http://www.quaife.co.uk/Seat-Leon-Cupra-20V-Turbo-00-05MY-Quaife-ATB-Helical-LSD-differential

not sure if anyone would care to comment on there expierence of the Quaife LSD.

one key thing is uprated engine mounts and the dog bone mount if you dont already have this

reduces the engine lift and allows you to plant the power much better. Big improvement when I fitted these items to mine, quicker acceleration, so try and combine some decent engine mounts with a decent set of tyres