Auto guage oil temp

[J0N]

With the blanking plug, just make sure you're using a good quality, correct size allen key. Make sure it's inserted properly, plenty of leaverage and it will eventually 'crack' open probably taking all of the skin off of your knuckles lol. Once mine was cracked it just screwed out with my fingers, no problem. Once you've got it out save the copper washer and put it onto your sender (or better still get a new one), it's the washer that creates the seal so you should'nt need any thread tape. Sound simple but it's easy to damage and once it's rounded off you're really going to struggle.

 

[FishmanUK]

Got some WD40 now so once my car is cool i will drench it with that and have a go tomorrow morning

 

[FishmanUK]

Update: Managed to borrow a long 5mm hex key and despite nearly rounding it off I defeated it in the end. Now I need some washers, cant get the one off the blanking plate and doesnt look like it would be enough anyway. Do I have to use copper washers or will http://www.wickes.co.uk/Nuts-and-Washers/Assorted-Washers/invt/510710 do ?

 

[DannyC87]

copper washers if your sender doesn't have an earthing wire as these will earth the sender through the engine block. If it has an earthing wire it doesn't really matter as you can just connect this to the neg. on your batt

 

[FishmanUK]

OK, will try and get copper washers but I have an earthing wire so should be able to find somewhere to earth it if I cant find copper washers.

Thanks for the quick reply ! Now just have to wait for the GF to take me to B&Q as I guess I would have oil spilling everywhere if I drove it atm and there is no way I am tightening that blanking plate up again !

 

[J0N]

Use a copper washer as this is a soft metal which will create a gasket effect to make the seal the same as is used on a sump plug, I would'nt use a plain steel one. Take your sender to a decent motor factors to make sure you get the correct size, they should be able to sort you out for pences and you only need to fit one. When you fit the sender be careful not to over tighten as these will easily break causing you a whole world of pain.

 

[FishmanUK]

In with steel washers for the moment. Doesnt seem to be leaking but will look out for a copper washer. One problem is that what I thought was switched +12 doesnt seem to be so the gauge isnt working unless I touch it into +12v permanent. Need to work out where to get switched 12v from.

I used http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showpost.php?p=1973095&postcount=48 to determine what was switched live and used the red/orange wire which doesnt seem to work. Looking at it now that block is slightly different to mine. Will have to borrow a multimeter

 

[nutter_engineer]

can you still get the autogauge oil temp gauge these days? I've been to 3 local halfords (aberdeen) and they dont stock it. they have the boost gauge, but its not much point if i dont get the oil one aswell as I want it to match up. Are the smoke ones really that bad to view in sunlight? as there seems to be plenty of those on ebay.

 

[J0N]

Halfraud's dont seem to have had them for ages, got mine off eBay.

 

[Cowie]

Looking to get these gauges anyone got them in their cars?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PROSPORT-RED-...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item19b75b670c

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PROSPORT-RED-...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item19b7565188

 

[LEE69]

can you still get the autogauge oil temp gauge these days? I've been to 3 local halfords (aberdeen) and they dont stock it. they have the boost gauge, but its not much point if i dont get the oil one aswell as I want it to match up. Are the smoke ones really that bad to view in sunlight? as there seems to be plenty of those on ebay.

Get the oil pressure instead

 

[nutter_engineer]

Apparently the oil temp gauge is discontinued now. I already bought the boost gauge and a bit cheesed off you cant get the oil temp now.

 

[nutter_engineer]

So I eventually managed to track down one of the autogauge oil temp gauges and had it installed about two weeks ago along with a boost gauge. I've wired it as per one of the wiring guides on here and the gauge is always 'live' with a reading even when the iginition is off. I'm wondering will this draw much power? I left my LCR sitting on the drive for a week and it wouldn't start due to a flat battery. Its properly flat, as in the starter doesnt even turn and the dash lights are flickering. I know the cold weather may have played a part but its a bit worrying that its completely dead and wouldnt even turn the starter. And since it happened after I put the gauges in, I'm wondering if its down to them. Car is only 55 plate aswell.

 

[J0N]

I see what you mean but I've never had a problem with mine. Does the sender still pull a current when the oil is cold?

 

[FishmanUK]

You need to use a switched 12v (not a switched variable), there is one on the light switch block, do you have a multimeter ?
If not I will try to remember to dig out a picture of what I used

 

[nutter_engineer]

No I dont have a multimeter I'm afraid.

For both boost and oil gauges, I've connected the lighting wires that come out of the gauges as follows:

1. Black gauge wire - brown wire in light block (earth)
2. Yellow gauge wire - red wire in light block (12V permanent live)
3. Purple/orange gauge wire - grey/blue wire in light block (switched live?)

Then on the oil temp poles:

1. Red sender wire to 'S'
2. Black sender wire to earth.
3. Red wire from light block to '+'

I guess where I've gone wrong is that I've used a permanent 12v (red wire) into the oil temp gauge hence its always reading and draining power? If so, which one (colour?) is the switched 12V from the light block? I'm guessing the grey/blue one is the switched variable as my gauges also dim like the dash when i use the dimmer.

TIA for your help. This is doing my head in and would like to sort it soon.

 

[FishmanUK]

OK, I think this following is right.
On the light switch block you have
red is +12v perm.
brown is earth

opposite brown [other side of the block] is ?? but next to that is +12v switched. On my car it is black and white, on a picture I got from here it looks orange/red.

Plug the sender power into that one and see if it works.
Sounds like you have the lighting OK, just the sender to sort