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uprated actuator an wow

paul-murphys said:
so rods should be ok with 24-25 psi??
Click to expand...
To be honest Paul i adjust my mbc and actuator spring pressure to keep my boost within the limits of the map sensor (1.54 bar). This will keep your torque in the region of 300ft/lb which will keep your rods and clutch intact.
If you want a cheap way of making the most of your new actuator...... connect a forge unos mbc in place of the n75 (leave electrically connected). adjust the mbc to keep within the limits of the map sensor. This should give at least 1.3 bar at the red line which is alot more than most stage 2 setups.
I was playing with my setup tonight and let rip on the torque a little..... it spun the wheels like feck and struggled to find traction. What you want for best performance is a sustained torque level all the way to the red line, this gives hard smooth acceleration all the way to the red line allowing all of the power to be used. Any spike past 1.6bar / 22psi is a waste of time and an inconvenience. I believe that less is more in this case.
 
ibizacupra said:
i personally think, on these, that there is often so much back pressure on the manifold/hot side that it can in fact push open the wastegate which is why a stiffer actuator may hold it shut.
Click to expand...
Bottling up those exhaust gases will push the temperatures up. Are you monitoring your EGTs? I'd say any modification from normal evacuation of the exhaust should be accompanied by a way to monitor how hot your head is getting. An EGT monitor is a cheap item. You should consider it.
 
combine boost and ign advance and you will get high cylinder pressure..
the boost contribution alone in pressure terms is not so significant as the ign event tho..
consider... 26' advance, 30psi boost ~ 2600psi cylinder pressures.. 30' advance same boost >3000psi cylinder pressure..

Thats quite some ratio 4' advance gave 400psi... Do you think 25psi is significant vs its effect on overall cylinder fill and subsequent ignition events?

:no:
 
I have 300lb/ft so I too am concerened, especially that tapping that's mentioned in the build thread, it seems to be a warning before it blew. I can hear some tapping/knocking on idle but I think that's just the carbon canister...never thought of it before but this has made me paranoid.
 
hi guys had standard turbo on and actuator set to my normal 22 psi, when rod went was at about 2500 rpm an an 3rd gear when went to accelarate heard a pop noise which sounded simular to when dual mass flywheel went but then oil light come on an i knew what had happened. this has happened on a stage 2 lcr im not sure if when had uprated actuator on caused rod to bend slightly an its given up over time but damage done,. brought another engine an got company going to rebuild with uprated rods , uprated valves an valve springs.
 
Bloody hell mate. sorry to hear this but I admire your laid back attitude. I'd still be crying.

Hope you get it all sorted soon.
 
when you put the actuator on, did you go out and do logging to see what boost was spiking/peaking at etc?
 
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