uprated actuator an wow

[paul-murphys]

so rods should be ok with 24-25 psi??

 

[wild willy]

so rods should be ok with 24-25 psi??

To be honest Paul i adjust my mbc and actuator spring pressure to keep my boost within the limits of the map sensor (1.54 bar). This will keep your torque in the region of 300ft/lb which will keep your rods and clutch intact.
If you want a cheap way of making the most of your new actuator...... connect a forge unos mbc in place of the n75 (leave electrically connected). adjust the mbc to keep within the limits of the map sensor. This should give at least 1.3 bar at the red line which is alot more than most stage 2 setups.
I was playing with my setup tonight and let rip on the torque a little..... it spun the wheels like feck and struggled to find traction. What you want for best performance is a sustained torque level all the way to the red line, this gives hard smooth acceleration all the way to the red line allowing all of the power to be used. Any spike past 1.6bar / 22psi is a waste of time and an inconvenience. I believe that less is more in this case.

 

[Mark300zx]

Sorry to hijack, I have an old electronic boost controller lying about is it worth connecting this up to an otherwise stock LCR?

 

[m0rk]

Nope

 

[wild willy]

so rods should be ok with 24-25 psi??

I guess we found out the hard way. Sorry to hear of your rod issues and hope it gets sorted so she's better than ever.
A manual boost controller is essential to keep the peak torque in check.

 

[slappy_dunbar]

i personally think, on these, that there is often so much back pressure on the manifold/hot side that it can in fact push open the wastegate which is why a stiffer actuator may hold it shut.

Bottling up those exhaust gases will push the temperatures up. Are you monitoring your EGTs? I'd say any modification from normal evacuation of the exhaust should be accompanied by a way to monitor how hot your head is getting. An EGT monitor is a cheap item. You should consider it.

 

[JamJay]

I guess we found out the hard way. Sorry to hear of your rod issues and hope it gets sorted so she's better than ever.
A manual boost controller is essential to keep the peak torque in check.

has he broken the rods, on the dyno perhaps? I can't find the post.

 

[ibizacupra]

combine boost and ign advance and you will get high cylinder pressure..
the boost contribution alone in pressure terms is not so significant as the ign event tho..
consider... 26' advance, 30psi boost ~ 2600psi cylinder pressures.. 30' advance same boost >3000psi cylinder pressure..

Thats quite some ratio 4' advance gave 400psi... Do you think 25psi is significant vs its effect on overall cylinder fill and subsequent ignition events?

 

[Lodgey180]

got me worried now! I run similar torque to cupramvr ! So is a ebc or mbc needed to keep torque levels down ?

 

[wild willy]

got me worried now! I run similar torque to cupramvr ! So is a ebc or mbc needed to keep torque levels down ?

350ft/lbs is suicide mate and those stock rods won't cope with it long term.

 

[DannyC87]

has he broken the rods, on the dyno perhaps? I can't find the post.

yep, has thrown a rod through the block while driving from what i've read

 

[JamJay]

yep, has thrown a rod through the block while driving from what i've read

Uh Oh. This was after the hybrid got fitted?

 

[DannyC87]

Uh Oh. This was after the hybrid got fitted?

before from what I can make out! http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showpost.php?p=2754675&postcount=60

worrying considering i've seen over 300lbft on RR myself (could be just the dyno lottery tho!)

 

[JamJay]

I have 300lb/ft so I too am concerened, especially that tapping that's mentioned in the build thread, it seems to be a warning before it blew. I can hear some tapping/knocking on idle but I think that's just the carbon canister...never thought of it before but this has made me paranoid.

 

[paul-murphys]

hi guys had standard turbo on and actuator set to my normal 22 psi, when rod went was at about 2500 rpm an an 3rd gear when went to accelarate heard a pop noise which sounded simular to when dual mass flywheel went but then oil light come on an i knew what had happened. this has happened on a stage 2 lcr im not sure if when had uprated actuator on caused rod to bend slightly an its given up over time but damage done,. brought another engine an got company going to rebuild with uprated rods , uprated valves an valve springs.

 

[paul-murphys]

the tapping was a valve an thats not whats caused engine to pop, engine was still running after lost rod an could still hear the tapping noise, i had just been garage an brought a new pick up pipe.

life goes on

 

[JamJay]

It does indeed Paul and like you say in your thread, you can really build your car now

 

[sheffboy]

Bloody hell mate. sorry to hear this but I admire your laid back attitude. I'd still be crying.

Hope you get it all sorted soon.

 

[traumapat]

sad to hear this, hope the new build works out.

top attitude

 

[jamiebennett81]

when you put the actuator on, did you go out and do logging to see what boost was spiking/peaking at etc?