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PD130 Spluttery Start?
- Thread starter wrayvon
- Start date
Nope I haven't touched my egr. To be honest, I have no idea what it even is or does haha
Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve
Takes some exhaust gases and recirulates them into the inlet. Mainly for emmisions I think.
Wont affect start up, as when you initially turn the key to start the engine there wont be any exhaust gasses to recirculate until the engines running
That's a good point. I read somewhere that blanking the egr off can effect an anti shudder valve or something but don't quote me on that!
Thats if you use the allard egr delete, it removes the asv aswell.
If you buy the darkside developments pd170 kit its shorter and you keep the asv and in the blt engine means you dont have to map out the whole
Eml, just the egr. Theres a whole thread on this, can link it
If you want
I have my EGR minimised via VagCom and I've fitted the BLT engine 9mm EGR gasket also.
THis is what I do: I only use Shell/BP fuel and clean my injectors with Liqui Moly Diesel Purge approximately every 10k...I'm not advising people to do what I do or anything(each to their own) but honestly my TDi engine is smooth when I start it up from cold. It doesn't sound ratty or rough at all - even on very cold mornings.
THis is what I do: I only use Shell/BP fuel and clean my injectors with Liqui Moly Diesel Purge approximately every 10k...I'm not advising people to do what I do or anything(each to their own) but honestly my TDi engine is smooth when I start it up from cold. It doesn't sound ratty or rough at all - even on very cold mornings.
I dont think anyones actually runs rough or rattly, just the initial start isnt 100% smooth but thats just a typical diesel engine. Hence the need for glow plugs to help it start as their not good starters. And on older / industrial diesel engines they need alot of heat and usually a cold start button which gives it more fuel to start up. The joys of using a fuel tht isnt a great combuster in its own
Ahhh I guess I have the wrong idea about people's posts in this thread. Apologies guys.
I have both Allard EGR and BLT engine and am familiar with the whole EML on all the time, I ended up buying a ScanGuage and clear the codes before setting off, that way the light only comes on if there is a problem. If you could like the thread though that would make for some interesting reading
Paulie..
I have both Allard EGR and BLT engine and am familiar with the whole EML on all the time, I ended up buying a ScanGuage and clear the codes before setting off, that way the light only comes on if there is a problem. If you could like the thread though that would make for some interesting reading
Paulie..
Heres the thread I made here, with a link to the original thread I saw
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=340992
No worries, just seems a better idea and able to keep the asv and eml function. Hopefully have it fitted along with my stage 2 map in the next month or so
Yeah it does. Only problem I have is that I had a custom pipe made up to eliminate any boost leaks utilising the allard EGR replacement valve. The original EGR and ASV are long gone now.
If you look on page 10 of my build thread you will see the pipe work I had made up
Paulie..
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Yeah it does. Only problem I have is that I had a custom pipe made up to eliminate any boost leaks utilising the allard EGR replacement valve. The original EGR and ASV are long gone now.
If you look on page 10 of my build thread you will see the pipe work I had made up
Paulie..
Just saw that the other day, the one piece pipe with welded joins from inlet to alternator area where it joins the fmic piping? Id like it if someone made an off the shelf pipe to replace the standard plastic one that runs to inlet
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Yeah that's the one. Luckily my mate is a very good fabricator. The standard plastic pipe is useless. I blew 3 or 4 up before I went to the SFS silicone hose. That was then chopped down when I had the WMI fitted, the 90 degree hose started leaking so had the one piece of tubing made up with the WMI nozzle built into it. Much better now as before there were 5 or 6 places where boost could leak from the EGR replacement to the custom MAP sensor. Got another piece the same to go from the turbo outlet hose to the FMIC inlet port. Just need to get someone to custom me a turbo outlet pipe that goes from PD150 size to 2.5in
Paulie..
Paulie..
Was that with running the hybrid you blew them?
Im not too happy with the fit and joins on my fmic pipework and would ideally like to take it off and modify it at some point and possibly fit mikalor clamps as just got the jubilees just now. Theres no leaks atm but unsure how itl be with a stage 2 map
Im not too happy with the fit and joins on my fmic pipework and would ideally like to take it off and modify it at some point and possibly fit mikalor clamps as just got the jubilees just now. Theres no leaks atm but unsure how itl be with a stage 2 map
Yeah that was running the hybrid. I had problems with the mikalor clamps as well. I am currently using 'aircraft clips' they look like normal jubilee clips but have a separate inner ring and a spring built into the clamp. As you tighten it the spring expands, keeping constant tension on the inner ring. I'll grab a picture when I'm next at the car.
Paulie..
Paulie..
I have heard the mikalors have a weak point where they sometimes leak from now that you mention it
Aitcraft ones expensive?
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