Ok guys so I got my turbo this morning it's off a vw sharan asz engine code and I got the turbo on and the manifold on and the exhaust egr pipe was at a different angle so I had to do a home made egr delete! With alloy plates wich is only temporary. I did not have to clock my turbo as it was the same as my standard 1.
Turbo failure
- Thread starter jamescupra1
- Start date
Good to hear you've finally got it sorted. Have you cleaned up your boost pipes before you start the car?
Also EGR delete isn't a bad thing, as long as the plate is a flush fit to the manifold, you won't have any problems.
All you need to do now is remove the vacuum hose to the EGR valve and seal it off with a bolt and a small jubilee clip or zip tie. This will stop it opening when the engine is running and causing a leak
Also EGR delete isn't a bad thing, as long as the plate is a flush fit to the manifold, you won't have any problems.
All you need to do now is remove the vacuum hose to the EGR valve and seal it off with a bolt and a small jubilee clip or zip tie. This will stop it opening when the engine is running and causing a leak
I cleaned all pipes in a plastic bin with swarfega degreaser and tool clean I got from halfords for 6 pound for 5 litres. I already had put a screw in each of the pipes with a zip tie in them. I've orderd a steal plate egr blank off eBay for 3 pounds so that is what will be the final fix. You no the egr housing? Does that need a plate on it to or will it be fine now it's been unplugged?
Did the egr delete cause an MIL lights? I've also got a VW ASZ turbo with the egr bit being slightly different. I thought the egr pipe was flexible? Doesn't it bend round enough?
Also, as I'm fitting the same, thinking about giving the garage couple of these delete plates, one to go on the manifold and the other on the pipe. Would that suffice? Badger can you elaborate a bit more on removing the vac hose please?
Also, as I'm fitting the same, thinking about giving the garage couple of these delete plates, one to go on the manifold and the other on the pipe. Would that suffice? Badger can you elaborate a bit more on removing the vac hose please?
They don't bend as much as you would think and yes and egr delete plate would work as that's what I have done
Certainly.
When you look at your EGR valve from the front of the engine bay, you will see a short black hose, approximately 8mm thick running from the top of the EGR to a small black box located in the top left of the engine bay. This box has about 4-5 other pipes coming off it.
Unplug the pipe from the EGR valve whilst the engine is turned OFF.
Get a small bolt, that fits in the end of the tube and zip tie the bolt securely inside.
Locate the pipe securely, so it doesn't move about and jobs a good 'un.
I must stress however, that aslong as the valve wasn't leaking before you shouldn't have a problem, but I would advise sealing up the vac pipe on the EGR valve with a small bit of sealant (if you're not going to use it anymore) to prevent it moving and leaking into the bay. Or alternatively buy a Allard or Darkside Developments EGR delete for about £60 delivered.
And with regards to the Engine Managemant Light. As the ASZ is a EU3 compliant engine, the EGR valve won't throw up an error code as it's not electronically connected to the ECU. Only the later EU4 PD130 engines (BLT) will and have to be mapped out due to the Anti-Shudder Valve (ASV) throwing the codes.
Badger thanks for the clarification! Most helpful.
Interms of EGR blanks, I've bought two of these:
Assume these will be ok as oppose to the replacement pipe?
Interms of EGR blanks, I've bought two of these:
Assume these will be ok as oppose to the replacement pipe?
I have just got 1 of these on my manifold and it works great. No smoke out the back either, I've had to go over all the boost pipes and screw them in where I can ( **** design ) 4 screws in each end of the pipe works great. My turbo failed due to poor fitment of the boost pipes causing turbo to work hard even at low revs and over heated the turbo, there where friction heat marks on the cold side
I must apologise as I've got two bits of info mixed up.
Removing the EGR valve will illuminate the EML as the ECU throws an error due to the MAF over reading the amount of air required due to the lack of exhaust gases being 'recycled'.
The EGR Valve duty cycle has to be mapped out by a reputable tuner in order for the EML not to come on.
You can however, turn the EGR Valve cycle down through VCDS.VDCS-Lite but this doesn't guarantee to stop the light from illuminating in the future.
Those look like the correct ones, be sure to use the gaskets from the pipe though!
Removing the EGR valve will illuminate the EML as the ECU throws an error due to the MAF over reading the amount of air required due to the lack of exhaust gases being 'recycled'.
The EGR Valve duty cycle has to be mapped out by a reputable tuner in order for the EML not to come on.
You can however, turn the EGR Valve cycle down through VCDS.VDCS-Lite but this doesn't guarantee to stop the light from illuminating in the future.
Those look like the correct ones, be sure to use the gaskets from the pipe though!
The egr isnt electronic on the BLT either, the completely seperate ASV is. If you use the correct egr delete and retain the ASV you still get a light, its because the ecu monitors a change in airflow when the egr cycles/operates via the maf. If done this way the egr can be mapped out, the ASV being missing however cannot be mapped out without loosing the eml completely.
Thank you for the correction. I knew the ASV was connected, not 100% on the EGR Valve as I've never seen a BLT engine
My logic for buying two was that one could cover the exhaust and the other the pipe that connects to the EGR. (in the dark here's bit as a garage is doing the work)
As per below, has this thrown up a MIL?
Thanks guys, so the light can't be Eliminated completely if EGR is deleted?
The main reason for doing the EGR delete is because the Replacement turbo exhaust outlet is in a different position. Is there another way round this? I.e. can the EGR still fit?
Blue being original, Red replacement
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