alijawad
Guest
can you please tell me which one of four wheels i re do again. thanks brake master cyliner is on right side of the car. thanks
In my experience the master cylinder needs bleeding too, I'd recommend starting with the previous mentioned procedure, it should start with the wheel furthest away from the servo until you get to the closest, after this then do the master cylinder.
I've had mine bled by 3 different garages 4 times since I've owned car (8 years) and always have to take it back straight away because they never bleed the master cylinder but always feels spongy until it gets bled.
I've had mine bled by 3 different garages 4 times since I've owned car (8 years) and always have to take it back straight away because they never bleed the master cylinder but always feels spongy until it gets bled.
Same, Connect ezibleed, tweak the 2 nipples until fluid comes out
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And without Ezibleed?
Then don’t do any brake fluid work!
Pressure bleeding is as must, as it’s been well said before
I'd go round the car again. Dot.4 is cheap!
Using an ezibleed kit
Both rear together
Both front together
Master cylinder
Then each corner on it's own
Rear right, rear left
Front right, front left
This way, you get enough flow to pull any air out the ABS pump and you are totally sure of a clean air free system.
alijawad
Guest
Right updates guys. Done brake pressure bleeding pedal is much better then I had it all last year. But it's not as firm as it has to be how can I make it perfect?.....
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
alijawad
Guest
+I didn't do the master cylinder do I need to? Or can I do only master cylinder or do I need to bleed all of points again?
You can do just the master cylinder on its own.
Also, take it for a drive around a gravel car park and give the ABS a good go.
If you still aren’t happy after that, you could bleed all round again in case the ABS activation dislodged some air.
It probably won’t go rock sold though.
The rubber brake lines will be soft and squidgy by now.
Also, take it for a drive around a gravel car park and give the ABS a good go.
If you still aren’t happy after that, you could bleed all round again in case the ABS activation dislodged some air.
It probably won’t go rock sold though.
The rubber brake lines will be soft and squidgy by now.
alijawad
Guest
Updates guys I have done the master cylinder bleeding as I mentioned above all calipers were bled before but master cylinder was left to be done Sprogpole mate you were right it's not solid rock cheers
Having problems myself .. I changed all the brake pads on the car.. the rear caliper on drivers side was stiff and I couldnt get it to wind in until i took it off the car and used a vice to hold it steady.
After bleeding using the two man system i wasnt getting any pressure in the brake pedal.
I thought i duffed the seals in the master cylinder, so i clamped all the brake lines, and then i got a solid pedal so that ruled out the master cylinder being damaged.
After taking off one clamp at a time the front drivers side caliper seems to be the culprit. If i clamp the line the pedal is solid. if i take the clamp off, the caliper piston does operate but the pedal goes to the ground. after a test drive i cannot get the abs to activate because there is not enough brake pressure and pedal is on the floor.
I took the caliper off the guide pins, pushed back the piston with nipple open, tapped the caliper with a hammer to move any settled air bubbles, bled again and still getting a soft pedal...
Really unusual behaviour.. Has any one seen this before, before i go look for a new caliper?
After bleeding using the two man system i wasnt getting any pressure in the brake pedal.
I thought i duffed the seals in the master cylinder, so i clamped all the brake lines, and then i got a solid pedal so that ruled out the master cylinder being damaged.
After taking off one clamp at a time the front drivers side caliper seems to be the culprit. If i clamp the line the pedal is solid. if i take the clamp off, the caliper piston does operate but the pedal goes to the ground. after a test drive i cannot get the abs to activate because there is not enough brake pressure and pedal is on the floor.
I took the caliper off the guide pins, pushed back the piston with nipple open, tapped the caliper with a hammer to move any settled air bubbles, bled again and still getting a soft pedal...
Really unusual behaviour.. Has any one seen this before, before i go look for a new caliper?
Refurb the offending calliper by putting a new piston and seals in. It’ll only cost you about £25 and no special tools needed.
Make sure to clean everything up well and lubricate the seals with brake fluid. Also clamp the line before removing the brake hose.
Get a pressure bleeding kit and don’t drive it till it’s fixed.
Make sure to clean everything up well and lubricate the seals with brake fluid. Also clamp the line before removing the brake hose.
Get a pressure bleeding kit and don’t drive it till it’s fixed.
Before I was aware that these needed pressure bleeding I once spent 2 hours with my mate doing the 2 man method and everytime I thought I had it right the pedal dropped to the floor again, just bite the bullet and pay a decent garage £20-£25 and get it pressure bled but make sure they do the master cylinder too.
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