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Gokiwi64

Geriatric Member
Apr 26, 2014
1,370
715
Hockley, Essex
So I took mine apart last night, its a model from evil bay and a Forge (ish) copy, comes with 3 springs etc.

The good parts

The 3 springs come coloured
Yellow - weakest
Blue - middle
Red - strongest

There was a big difference between Yellow and Blue but not a huge difference between Blue & Red

The circlip that acted as a stop for the spring had 3 postions within the piston

The bad bits

There was no diaphragm between the 2 halves of the body and 2 of the retaining screws were threaded at an angle.

There was no grease on the piston what so ever

The bottom of the piston where is sat in the body was not flat and so was not seating properly, this is metal on metal as well.


What I did

So starting with medium valve grinding paste I lapped the 2 halves of the body and finished off with 1200 grit wet & dry, I then used a very thin smear of RTV Blue on the outside engines of the body halves, I also lapped the piston bottom and the body (where they meet) except I finished with fine pasted and 4000 grit wet & dry.

While not perfect its a lot better than before.

My supercharger scream is all but gone and the boost seems to hold for longer and is a bit more consistent.

So the conclusion is the supercharger scream was caused or is being caused by crap tolerances......pre caveat emptor.
 
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At the time money and if I'm honest its still money , although I may put the oem one back on as they are a similar price (Would be interesting now to do a back to back seat of the pants dyno test)

Providing its in good condition id rate the oem diaphram valve as a better choice than any of the piston after market valves. Smoother operation, cant stick and never needs servicing! If you wanted a stronger version of it the APR R1 is a beefed up diaphram jobbie. But the oem is as strong as it needs to be :shrug:
 
At the time money and if I'm honest its still money , although I may put the oem one back on as they are a similar price (Would be interesting now to do a back to back seat of the pants dyno test)

better still do a bubble test...
apply pressure in side port and top, and immerse in water, look for bubbles.

30psi I test them to.. you will be disappointed to see the many many dv's which bubble out inc big name DV's.

OE dv, same test zero leaks, holds 30psi, opens quickly with sensible vacuum level.

wanting cheaper dv, a functional original DV ticks all the boxes..

and in reply to your bizarre pm, no you have not offended me in any way and I am not having a go at you either.. so wind your neck in.
 
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Thanks Bill,

I have ordered a new diaphragm type one as I'm never going to push 30 psi at best it will ever be will be Stage 1.

Re the p.m at the bottom of your post there is a line

OE ftw for budget dv

The ftw is highlighted (in blue on my browser), if you hover the mouse over it , it pops a message

"Acronym for The poster is a bit of a twat, who is probably still at school and posts on internet forums from the school library"

That is what the image was in the p.m
 
Admin can grow the fcuk up then and remove it if they like too

FFS.. << wonder what pops up with this one! ;)

Mr Gokiwi64 got the hump with me earlier as he thought I had done the link to him
Thanks admin for that little childish Gem
 
:rofl:

Poor bloke
FTW means "for the win" which is positive. Certain admin :cartman: wanted to stop people using it so stuck the link on it. Its been like it years, but Bills too busy bubble testing DVs to have noticed! :happy:
 
Hump "removed" :)

Should I ever get to Gloucester I will be purchasing an ale or two for you (Bill that is).


Admin can grow the fcuk up then and remove it if they like too

FFS.. << wonder what pops up with this one! ;)

Mr Gokiwi64 got the hump with me earlier as he thought I had done the link to him
Thanks admin for that little childish Gem