Jacking up car

[Woody_72]

I've got a 184 FR with independent rear suspension. I did my back brakes recently and jacked on the round section beam that run across the centre of the car. It's absolutely solid as a rock, only issue is it's quite a way in and so getting the jack underneath it is awkward.

 

[Steve J]

I've got a 184 FR with independent rear suspension. I did my back brakes recently and jacked on the round section beam that run across the centre of the car. It's absolutely solid as a rock, only issue is it's quite a way in and so getting the jack underneath it is awkward.

Are you referring to this beam? It might be different as I've got an estate. (Have to be sensible for the family car lol)

 

[Woody_72]

That looks like the one, yes. It was solid as a rock, not a squeak, groan or murmur at all.

 

[RUM4MO]

Interesting. So that's where the car is supported as it moves along the production line?

Yes and in there can lie an issue, ie they will always be used as a set of 4 and mainly with a lightly populated car body - in the states some silly people started using them on VW Passats and got annoyed when the "provided" points for fitting the Audi TT jacking protectors to their VW Passat was not strong enough to stop distortion when jacking up at one point.

These front ones must be okay to use though as why would retro covers exist and why would that undercovering have that convenient small original cover - I used my modified Jackpoint bits to fit Winter wheels to my older daughter's 2019 Leon Cupra and it did make some creaking plastic noises at the front - from the pictures on that link I can see why, same happens when jacking up my Audi S4 but I don't mind - I have no other options available to me.

For the rear of the Leon I'd be avoiding using any parts other than the body and a reinforced convenient area of it - and there must be a pair of handling holes back there as well - the Audi TT bits will fit the rear holes but you will need to buy the centre stool/plug as well as the rubber pads for that end.

 

[Steve J]

Yes and in there can lie an issue, ie they will always be used as a set of 4 and mainly with a lightly populated car body - in the states some silly people started using them on VW Passats and got annoyed when the "provided" points for fitting the Audi TT jacking protectors to their VW Passat was not strong enough to stop distortion when jacking up at one point.

These front ones must be okay to use though as why would retro covers exist and why would that undercovering have that convenient small original cover - I used my modified Jackpoint bits to fit Winter wheels to my older daughter's 2019 Leon Cupra and it did make some creaking plastic noises at the front - from the pictures on that link I can see why, same happens when jacking up my Audi S4 but I don't mind - I have no other options available to me.

For the rear of the Leon I'd be avoiding using any parts other than the body and a reinforced convenient area of it - and there must be a pair of handling holes back there as well - the Audi TT bits will fit the rear holes but you will need to buy the centre stool/plug as well as the rubber pads for that end.

This is interesting, thanks. In the rear where the two rubber holes are would using a piece of wood and a jack to raise the car be safe without causing damage?

 

[Mr Pig]

I did my back brakes recently and jacked on the round section beam that run across the centre of the car.

It's always a risk jacking on a part that you don't know to be designed for it. They may be strong but it might not be strong enough in the direction required. For instance it's common for people to jack on suspension mounting points but lower suspension arm locating points are not load bearing. The strut takes the weight and the lower arms just locate it laterally. The lower arm locating point is not required to take any vertical weight at all!

If you jack on a point like that and the area of the bodyshell bends or caves in? That's not an easy fix.

Yes and in there can lie an issue, ie they will always be used as a set of 4 and mainly with a lightly populated car body .

This is interesting and makes sense. There could be some kind of certification issue which stops VW stating that they are jacking points even if they are strong enough. How come they sell kits for them I don't know but there is obviously some bureaucratic reason behind it all.

The kits include parts for the rear as well so I'm fairly confident both the front and rear points are up to the job. I've jacked on the front ones many times, oil changes etc. I've not jacked on the rear ones as often but I have used them.

A block of wood on top of the jack is not a good idea as it would be too easy for the car or jack to slide off the wood. I use wood blocks but they are shaped to fit into the jack and axle stands and grooved to locate on te sills.

 

[RUM4MO]

This is interesting, thanks. In the rear where the two rubber holes are would using a piece of wood and a jack to raise the car be safe without causing damage?

Yes that would be okay when using a wooden spreader.

 

[RUM4MO]

It's always a risk jacking on a part that you don't know to be designed for it. They may be strong but it might not be strong enough in the direction required. For instance it's common for people to jack on suspension mounting points but lower suspension arm locating points are not load bearing. The strut takes the weight and the lower arms just locate it laterally. The lower arm locating point is not required to take any vertical weight at all!

If you jack on a point like that and the area of the bodyshell bends or caves in? That's not an easy fix.



This is interesting and makes sense. There could be some kind of certification issue which stops VW stating that they are jacking points even if they are strong enough. How come they sell kits for them I don't know but there is obviously some bureaucratic reason behind it all.

The kits include parts for the rear as well so I'm fairly confident both the front and rear points are up to the job. I've jacked on the front ones many times, oil changes etc. I've not jacked on the rear ones as often but I have used them.

A block of wood on top of the jack is not a good idea as it would be too easy for the car or jack to slide off the wood. I use wood blocks but they are shaped to fit into the jack and axle stands and grooved to locate on te sills.

Yes I should have added that in my previous reply, I tend to chisel out a pattern so that the jack shoe bits and grips in one location and ideally a vertical raised edge on the wooden blocks to get It located in the correct position and to keep it there, so strong long screws and not just nails, though once you have mastered the "gentle" art of lifting a car and staying unharmed you end up only doing things the best way - it would take a lot of checking before I remove any wheels as there is no point in breaking something when doing preventative maintenance or repair.

 

[Steve J]

Yes I should have added that in my previous reply, I tend to chisel out a pattern so that the jack shoe bits and grips in one location and ideally a vertical raised edge on the wooden blocks to get It located in the correct position and to keep it there, so strong long screws and not just nails, though once you have mastered the "gentle" art of lifting a car and staying unharmed you end up only doing things the best way - it would take a lot of checking before I remove any wheels as there is no point in breaking something when doing preventative maintenance or repair.

Thankfully I'm not going under the car at all so safety wise I'm not at risk of being crushed. But I appreciate all the replies.