Cupra 180 AUQ “the shed”

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So picked the car up a few weeks ago now 2002 1.8t AUQ. Got her home and eventually stuff arrived...
Plugs oil and filters later inc fuel filter she’s running smooth

Then I see this

New shaft ordered from j and r, arriving next week.

Decided I’d delete n249 112 and Sai, all hoses ran now I just need to remove the actual sai/pump and fit my blanking plate. Delicious.

Put everything away and locked the car to find I have the ghostie dash lights, speedo cluster is illuminated a few seconds after the car locks fml. I love older cars


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Also for those of you who know a bit... when removed the n249 plumbing I noticed there was a one way valve that sat inlet manifold side of the valves. Should I refits this? Guessing it’s there to prevent airflow going the wrong way in the vac lines


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Update time!!!

So after some very tasty chicken wings I decided to unbox my new jr drive shaft. Some very good build quality as far as I’m concerned solid heavy piece of metal. Came with a new hub nut loose on the end ready to go and both joints already assembled and attached.

Got outside found it extremely easy to remove the old shaft, got the new one measured up to make sure it was the correct one then in it went. Hub nut on very loose, did the ball joint bolts back up then attached the shaft to the box, all finger tight at this point. Tightened everything from ball joint to gearbox to hub nut. Gave her a spin and it’s delicious.

Fair to say I think I found the cause of my front end knock, I didn’t know cv joints could be telescopic first photo is it compressed, then extended.

Oh and for the amusement of you all, my battery led work light ran out as soon as I got the old shaft out so I had my phone balanced and in my mouth until it had some more charge. I really struggle to half a job then come back to it, forget where I am


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[Rich.T]

Re-check the splined bolts in a few days to make sure they are all still tight.
Im sure they will be fine but worth a look.

 

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Yeah I got into the habit of re checking it all a week later. Learnt that from my dad


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Well what a day. Got a lot done but... while removing my drivers side wiper arm which had been soaking in penetrating oil a few hours.. the bolt sheared off is this a new motor?


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[Rich.T]

You maybe able to get the wiper mech on its own. Will be cheaper.

Rich

 

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**** the bed lol. Nuts were so shiny. The other one came off so easy


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Will cupra r clocks go straight into mine? Taking the cluster apart to repair it and might just buy another haha


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[Connor H]

Also for those of you who know a bit... when removed the n249 plumbing I noticed there was a one way valve that sat inlet manifold side of the valves. Should I refits this? Guessing it’s there to prevent airflow going the wrong way in the vac lines


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Picture of the check valve?

 

[Yellow fr]

Will cupra r clocks go straight into mine? Taking the cluster apart to repair it and might just buy another haha


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Yes but will have to be coded to your to your car


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Yes but will have to be coded to your to your car


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I went full DIY and fixed my old ones


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Picture of the check valve?

I’ll stick one up tomorrow. It’s just a small L shaped black plastic one. I blew in both ends to see what it did. Was attached to the n249 mess


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Roll bar bushes done in half hour. What an easy job and my forge motorsport tip arrived today


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So. Thought I’d have a scan of fault codes. Usual guff in there sai airflow incorrect (it’s not there) coolant sensor/thermostat which I both have sat here ready to replace.

Then this one 17705, http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17705/P1297/004759

Interesting however I accidentally knocked a vac pipe off a few weeks ago. I wonder if this could’ve caused it. I believe my dv is working ok and I don’t seem to be noticing any anomalies on the boost gauge. Suppose I’ll see if it comes back in a few days.


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[Connor H]

So. Thought I’d have a scan of fault codes. Usual guff in there sai airflow incorrect (it’s not there) coolant sensor/thermostat which I both have sat here ready to replace.

Then this one 17705, http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17705/P1297/004759

Interesting however I accidentally knocked a vac pipe off a few weeks ago. I wonder if this could’ve caused it. I believe my dv is working ok and I don’t seem to be noticing any anomalies on the boost gauge. Suppose I’ll see if it comes back in a few days.


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Lol good luck finding the cause of that. I’ve replaced every vacuum and intake hose and quadruple checked everything looking for it. Figure it’s just the ECU being a little spastic about the mods


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I only checked cos MIL light came on the other day. Guess it was SAI that triggered it


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[Connor H]

I only checked cos MIL light came on the other day. Guess it was SAI that triggered it


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I’ve been getting it since before I put my FMIC on, which was an effort to rule out the entire OEM cooler set up, also changed map sensor and got rid of the whole brake vacuum set up. Need a smoke test done really but it holds boost fine so I’m pretty sure it’s ecu related.


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I don’t think smoke tests are expensive?


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[Connor H]

I don’t think smoke tests are expensive?


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No one in my area that do them, there was one guy but he had me come in just to give me some excuse about it suddenly not working and no idea when it will be fixed.


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