Leon "spluttering" on start up

dezmond02 · Oct 21, 2010

Hi,

i have a 2003 Leon 1.8T and the problem is that if the car has been sitting for quite a few hours (i.e. overnight or while i'm at work) when i go to switch it on and drive off, often the car will start "spluttering" as if it isn't getting enough power. After a few minutes it is fine, it's just the initial drive away. It seems to be getting worse with the cold weather

Has anyone come across this problem before or have any ideas as to what the problem might be?

any info would be appreciated.

Thanks

Yaboy · Oct 21, 2010

you should let it warm up before driving it

dezmond02 · Oct 21, 2010

is there a specific reason why i should let it warm up before driving it?

any other car i've driven i have never needed to let the engine warm up before driving away.

stepaway · Oct 21, 2010

Sounds like your secondary air pump has a leak. This is a common problem from what i gather, it's a pretty straight forward fix, takes about an hour if your handy with the spanners and involves removing the pump, drilling the old rivets out from the casing seal and replacing them with nuts, bolts and washers to re seal the split.

Theres a very helpful thread over on UK-MKIVS.net

http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/p/141240/940861.aspx#940861

Hth

Cowie · Oct 21, 2010

dezmond02 said:
Hi,

i have a 2003 Leon 1.8T and the problem is that if the car has been sitting for quite a few hours (i.e. overnight or while i'm at work) when i go to switch it on and drive off, often the car will start "spluttering" as if it isn't getting enough power. After a few minutes it is fine, it's just the initial drive away. It seems to be getting worse with the cold weather

Has anyone come across this problem before or have any ideas as to what the problem might be?

any info would be appreciated.

Thanks

Let it idle until the secondary air pump turns off,you can tell this by the noise and drop in revs from circa 1100 down to 720-750ish,then pull away,all will be smooth then.It's normal for the car to do this.

Yaboy · Oct 21, 2010

most tubo cars should be warmed up before driving not for long thou say 3 mins or so

traumapat · Oct 21, 2010

dezmond02 said:
is there a specific reason why i should let it warm up before driving it?

any other car i've driven i have never needed to let the engine warm up before driving away.

You dont need to let the car warm up before pulling away, the high revs might make the car feel a bit different but yours sounds problematic.

When you first start the car and it idles on high revs, is the rev counter needle steady?

Pyro · Oct 21, 2010

Reason for warming: if you drive off straight away then the oil in the car is still cold so the oil circulating around the turbo cold thick oil = bearing corrosion among other things

so yea let it warn up even if is for a min

traumapat · Oct 21, 2010

Pyro said:
Reason for warming: if you drive off straight away then the oil in the car is still cold so the oil circulating around the turbo cold thick oil = bearing corrosion among other things so yea let it warn up even if is for a min

The longer your sitting on the drive the longer the oil stays thick and cold , quicker you start moving the faster it warms up. Just stay progressive until your up to temp.
Ive seen oil take 15-20mins to get up to temp in the winter so sitting there for 2 mins wont make any difference other than making the warm up period last longer.

Pyro · Oct 21, 2010

Valid point but IMO you shpuld give the car a min or to to setle and get going we all know how temremental these bad boys are

traumapat · Oct 21, 2010

Pyro said:
Valid point but IMO you shpuld give the car a min or to to setle and get going we all know how temremental these bad boys are

Many are, but they really shouldnt be. If the OPs is getting worse then Its worth a looky

Rocky Rocastle · Oct 21, 2010

you can drive straight away no problem, its just recommended you don't boot it for a while. I usually wait til it hits 90 degrees temp wise before i give it any boost what so ever. Just means driving like a pensioner for about 3 or 4 mins

t0m · Oct 21, 2010

Always let her warm up gently

armo · Oct 21, 2010

mine does this every now and then, and it is indeed the secondary air pump, like already said let it run for a min and the revs will drop from 1100 to 800 ish then it should be smooth, once the revs drop i pull away, but keep it off any boost as much as poss until i hit 90 on the temp gauge, main thing for me is running it down after a lashing to prevent the bearings cooking

welchy · Oct 21, 2010

No no no!its your engine coolant sensor i do believe, had in my a3 last year, about a £15 part gen and bobs your uncle,, it basically feels like it will stall yes?

Cowie · Oct 21, 2010

Think the OP needs to clarify just when exactly this spluttering is occurring, is it after he's let the secondary pump switch off then pull away,or is he just getting in his car first thing in morning and pulling straight away.If it's after he's let the car sort itself out then there's other issues.

traumapat · Oct 21, 2010

armo said:
mine does this every now and then, and it is indeed the secondary air pump, like already said let it run for a min and the revs will drop from 1100 to 800 ish then it should be smooth, once the revs drop i pull away, but keep it off any boost as much as poss until i hit 90 on the temp gauge, main thing for me is running it down after a lashing to prevent the bearings cooking

Unless youve fitted an oil temp gauge Id leave it a bit longer, oil takes longer to warm up.

dezmond02 · Oct 21, 2010

hi guys,

thanks for all the info

Traumapat- when i first start the car the needle sits at approx 1100 and is steady.

Cowie - i'm (rightly or wrongly) starting the car and trying to drive away without leaving it to warm up for a min or two.

If i do leave it for a couple of mins to warm up then driving away is fine but because i don't know much about cars i wasn't sure if you HAD to wait for these few mins.

i've spoken to a mechanic friend of mine and he thinks it may be the EGR valve sticking or the air flow meter needing reset. Can anyone confirm that this could be one of the causes?

traumapat · Oct 21, 2010

The thing is if the symptoms only happen when the cars on auto choke and as soon as the revs level is fine it points to either a faulty coolant temp sensor, or a leak somewhere on the secondary air system.. both of these are to do with the auto choke/high revs. Id imagine other faults wouldnt improve upon the choke going off

Another thing that affects a cold car is a dirty throttle body which although idles fine the moment you move the pedal it will struggle to maintain revs, clears as the car warms.

If your friend has the software ask them to scan for faults. Im betting its the temp sensor which is an easy fix.

kevlpool24 · Oct 21, 2010

Secondary air pump mate I have same problem just turn car on and wait for it to come off choke
Or fix it some one already posted the guide
Won't be maf or it would be all the time not just on start up

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