Boot opening

That does look like a linkage with a return spring built into it, but that does not answer your question. I would hope that is just an extra one from initial assembly, or from a previous repair - though if not I'd expect a few more bits to be lying around.

A question, does the badge release still have an "spring return" action? My daughter's late 2009 boot probably still worked, but I got her to question the lack of "spring return" feeling for the boot release at its first service, that got sorted by I didn't get to know what was wrong/done!

Another option, I'm assuming that you know that the badge will not open the boot if the car has stopped and the driver's door has not been opened (been there done that a few times!). With wife's new Polo, I take no risks when/if I pick her up with that car, I always press the unlock button even if it is not lit and that makes sure the boot can be opened.

You say that you could not reach the latch through the emergency access slot - did you find out why when you took the trim off?

Sorry for not providing a definitive answer

Edit:- have you tried tripping the latch as in what happens when the boot is closed, then tried to see if the badge release unlatches it, or what you need to do to unlatch it?

Ah, so that white bit is maybe the emergency release mechanism, so that needs refitting so that moving that finger to one side releases the latch.

Maybe try tripping the latch with a screwdriver etc while the trim is off and see if you can get the emergency release to work - and go from there to get the badge to release the latch.

The badge thing might just be down to the latch being too stiff and needing lubricated - or the lock needs adjusting?

Edit:- getting back to your description of the noises the lock makes while it is opening - my wife's old 9N Polo used to make these noises, but I'm sure that my daughter's late 2009 Ibiza does not make any noise, just releases the boot latch!

Okay, I was wrong, there is a slight noise then another noise when I lift the badge!

I had a look through the slot and the release mechanism starts life as a shiny metal part and it does slide across okay.

Edit:- I'm guessing that as that noise is less and quicker/shorter than wife's old Polo was, that Seat have used a solenoid, now a couple of things can, in my experience, happen to that - firstly, if the linkage is lengthy, and covered by a rubber boot, the boot can move and stay compressed, so that limits what the solenoid can achieve as its action is a pulse and it needs to be free to move its full travel at the intended speed, which is needed to release the latch at all times: secondly any other sources of friction/stiction need resolving by cleaning lubricating: lastly, that solenoid might be u/s.

That is not too good!!

Two and a half years for a lock, still it lasted its warranty period I suppose, not what you expect from a genuine VAG spare part!!!

Edit:- or is that the second lock in the car's life?

Sorry but no idea of which fuse covers that, you said that the car "side" connector was filthy, does it look like water is getting in to that connector? Also, are all four connector socket pins "empty" - what I mean is, has a couple of the lock pins maybe corroded and broken off and are now inside the car "side" connector? I would think that that lock does need all four pins without being able right now to say which pin does what. There must be a switch which lets the car know that the hatch is closed, so maybe that uses two pins, then the power to the solenoid might be the other two. So not really much chance of not needing all four pins.

Now, what you need to find out is what is causing that switch to get filthy, any signs of fluid leaking out of the rear screen motor housing? If so you will need to get a repair kit from Seat, one clue to the washer being faulty is that the spray jet moves with the wiper arm - it should stay spraying vertically - though it could be faulty I could imagine without the spray jet being affected.

Water/moisture is nasty stuff, it "dissolved" one of the contacts of the high level brake light on wife's Polo - and I needed to replace the light (a section of its bus bar dissolved) and the connecting socket as I could not get the broken/corroded bit of bus bar out!!

Edit:- maybe spray some WD-40 into the new lock connector and the car's plug - but make sure first before you fit that new lock, that in the positions where the lock pins are missing, there are not the remains of the missing pins of the previous lock.

Maybe that car has had water leaking into that lock for a long time?

Maybe to hit this problem from both ends, as well as looking for and fixing any leaks you find, buy a tube of silicon grease and once you have made sure that the new lock is doing its job, remove the connector and put some silicon grease in the motor end, refit the connector and then fill the top side of that connector with silicon grease as that will stop the moisture/water/fluid getting into that connector.

Hey guys i am newbie to this, just joined today. But thought would be good if i posted an image of the fuse box ALSO WITH LABELLED TAGS TO SHOW YOU WHERE EACH FUSE IS STATED BY OWNERS MANUAL. As we all know where to find it be seat dont seem to put an illustration on the cover to tell you which slot is which??? see image 1




Now i have a problem with my fuse box. I bought my car brand new back in 2009 so i am only owner. But my boot is not working. you press the button on key fob and nothing, try opening it via seat logo switch and nothing. I looked in my fuse box and based on the owners manual, i appear to have two fuses the wrong spec. (See pic 2) . Slot 45 is supposedly for rear window heater and should be a yellow 20 amp but there appears to be a green 30 amp?

slot 48 is for Locking Unit and should be a blue 15amp fuse but a white 25amp is in its place? Now could this be related as the colour of fuses are there for a reason and if i am right with fuses slot layout then these are incorrect? but would this be cause my boot to fail from working?

Sorry for long post, but hope it helps someone and hopefully someone can help me back.

beano_cupra said:

That's the second lock in the cars life. When I bought the car the boot wouldn't open so it was replaced and worked for 2.5 years (up until this point) the car is a 2010 plate and I bought it second hand 2.5 years ago. I've had it off and all seemed good apart from the electric plug if you would call it that going into the lock itself was filthy inside, I have cleaned that but still not working. Also the pins seem to be missing 2 out of the 4 in the lock section but not sure how many there should be? I may buy a new lock for all its worth and change it. Do you have any idea what fuse is for the boot as well? I have looked in the handbook but it doesn't indicate one, only the locking system which I have checked and the fuse is fine

Click to expand...

HI
I have the same problem, I have fitted a new lock and still doesn’t open? There is no sound from the boot when using the handle, but I do hear a clicking noise in the footwell fuse area, drivers side.? The remote doesn’t;t open the boot either?

Which fuse did you find it to be ? I also have a 2010, 1.4 TDI BMS

Thanks