1.2 wont start when warm

joestella28

Active Member
Aug 21, 2010
63
0
Hi all, my 1.2 has been playing up recently, it starts no problem when cold (even when it was minus 9.5 the other week) but when it's warm it will not start. It first happened at a petrol garage, I had to let it sit for half an hour and still nothing. My dad came up in his truck to tow me home but managed to get it started when rolling, not sure it bump started or just started off the key but it started none the less. Drove the short journey home, parked it, turned off and then tried starting it again, nothing again. The car started fine the next morning but once i got to work it wouldn't start again. Home time it started again but wouldn't start once home. All very strange? I have the classic engine management light on but it has been since I got it and that was 8k ago, I had it checked and was told it was no more than a faulty sensor.

Has anyone had this before or know how to solve my problem?

Kind regards

Joe
 

posterboy

Active Member
Apr 7, 2010
91
0
Suffolk
Faulty engine temp sensor keeping the engine in cold start mode otherwise known as choke.


I agree it could be this, I had the same issue with the temp sensor, I thought "cold start" mode would mean more fuel being dumped into the engine? Why would it choke?

It also could be the engine crank/speed sensor

vagcom is needed to clarify this
 

Nath.

The Gentlemans Express
Jan 1, 2006
8,619
16
EASTLEIGH, HAMPSHIRE
, I thought "cold start" mode would mean more fuel being dumped into the engine? Why would it choke?




Too much fuel "running rich" is good for getting a cold engine running however once it is up to temp it can make it splutter, be poor to start or even not start.

With regard to "choke" this is the knob you had to pull out on old cars with a carburetor to help cold starts, It closed a flap on top of the charb barrel to reduce air intake and make the mixture rich "choking it". You knew when the engine was warm enough to push it back in when the engine spluttered and died when you pulled up at the traffic lights and wouldn't start again. You pushed the choke knob back in and it started fine.

This may have been before your time though, I've had many cars with a choke knob but then I have been driving 20 odd years.


From wiki reference choke

Automotive
A choke valve is sometimes installed in the carburetor of internal combustion engines. Its purpose is to restrict the flow of air, thereby enriching the fuel-air mixture while starting the engine. Depending on engine design and application, the valve can be activated manually by the operator of the engine (via a lever or pull handle) or automatically by a temperature-sensitive mechanism called an autochoke.

Choke valves are important for normally-aspirated gasoline engines because small droplets of gasoline do not evaporate well within a cold engine. By restricting the flow of air into the throat of the carburetor, the choke valve reduces the pressure inside the throat, which causes a proportionally greater amount of fuel to be pushed from the main jet into the combustion chamber during cold-running operation. Once the engine is warm (from combustion), opening the choke valve restores the carburetor to normal operation, supplying fuel and air in the correct stoichiometric ratio for clean, efficient combustion.

Note that the term "choke" is applied to the carburetor's enrichment device even when it works by a totally different method. Commonly SU carburetors have "chokes" that work by lowering the fuel jet to a narrower part of the needle. Some others work by introducing an additional fuel route to the constant depression chamber.

Chokes were nearly universal in automobiles until fuel injection began to supplant carburetors in the late 1980s. Choke valves are still common in other internal-combustion applications, including most small portable engines, motorcycles, small prop-powered airplanes, riding lawn mowers, and normally-aspirated marine engines
 
Feb 26, 2009
5,275
1
Wolverhampton
I have to admit, sometimes I use the phrase 'choke' and it scares off the young'uns!! For some reason 'fuel enrichment stage' doesn't seem to have the same effect.

I'd agree with the other comments though, faulty temperature sensor causing too much fuel, the engine is unable to burn such a rich mixture and becomes flooded, and then becomes impossible to start. There's a few VAG engines that sufer from faulty temperature sensors, it's not an overly difficult or expensive fix.
 

joestella28

Active Member
Aug 21, 2010
63
0
Hi guys, the suggestion of faulty temperature sensor makes sense, though only a young un' I've had plenty of experience with carbs, most of Tue motorbikes I have owned have been carbed, I've had to explain how a choke works a few times myself as it does seem odd to choke an engine.

Now the big question, are there more than engine temperature sensors? Are they called just that or do they have a particular name? I'll get a new one ordered ASAP and get it fitted.

Thanks once again, you guys are great,

Joe
 

GT5

Guest
Hi all, my 1.2 has been playing up recently, it starts no problem when cold (even when it was minus 9.5 the other week) but when it's warm it will not start. It first happened at a petrol garage, I had to let it sit for half an hour and still nothing. My dad came up in his truck to tow me home but managed to get it started when rolling, not sure it bump started or just started off the key but it started none the less. Drove the short journey home, parked it, turned off and then tried starting it again, nothing again. The car started fine the next morning but once i got to work it wouldn't start again. Home time it started again but wouldn't start once home. All very strange? I have the classic engine management light on but it has been since I got it and that was 8k ago, I had it checked and was told it was no more than a faulty sensor.

Has anyone had this before or know how to solve my problem?

Kind regards

Joe

Got the same issue here with my 1.4 sports ibiza (2003), great at until its about 5 degrees or above outside and hit and miss if it will start (will start eventually after turning engine for about 30 secs), i will change the sensor as the above people have suggested, now without sounding daft, where is this sensor? Will nip to GSF tomorrow on the way to work to pick one up, I did take it to a local VW specialist who said he could not replicate the problem, funny thing was when I got in the car it wouldnt start and when I got him it bloody started! grrrr
 
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