Thanks
As long as the bills are paid my wife is the one who usually says let's get more car parts 
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2010 MK2 Leon Cupra R - Build from Stock - Stage 2+ (and beyond) including DIY guides
- Thread starter gurpz94
- Start date
As long as the bills are paid my wife is the one who usually says let's get more car parts Mine complains if I pay someone to clean it!Thanks
As HRH Lord Sir Jeremy Clarkson regularly quotes "I don't do manual labour".Clean your own car more often and put those savings into car parts
Ah yes our unofficial King Sir Jeremy Clarkson. Wise words...
We did a 300 mile round trip to go to R-Tech Performance in Nuneaton. The whole team at R-Tech are amazing and have finally sorted out all the crap issues we were having with our car from day 1. Their skill & knowledge is incomparable.
As you can see from the thumbnail, we got the CUSTOM stage 2+ remap from R-Tech along with the over run map. Goopra is now a flame throwing monster, the flames were so huge we couldn't get them on camera (the camera was mounted far back enough to cut 1 exhaust tip off the shot, and the flames were still too big). We've fallen back in love with this car, the power and responsiveness is INSANE now.
We had a LONG day full of ups and downs and now my wallet is feeling very empty and my bank account is sad, but we're happy!
And now, some dyno graphs (car was NOT running 335bhp before with the state it was in):
And for the list of issues...
Thanks
I have some really big plans for the car at a later stage, but those will probably be next year.My wife and I are buying our house so money is quite tight, I'll be doing some smaller upgrades and will need to grab some uprated brakes soon. The OEM brakes aren't good enough in the dry, I'd dread to see them in action in the wet.
Just before we got our Stage 2+ remap done at R-tech, we fitted our RS4 fuel return valve.. This was the most fiddly ball-ache of a job, not to mention our car nearly killed us 
The OEM FRV provides up to 130 bar of fuel pressure, the RS4 one provides up to 136 bar, and is essential if you want to go for stage 2+ or more power on your car.
Audi RS4 Fuel Return Valve part # - 079 130 757
The OEM FRV provides up to 130 bar of fuel pressure, the RS4 one provides up to 136 bar, and is essential if you want to go for stage 2+ or more power on your car.
Audi RS4 Fuel Return Valve part # - 079 130 757
Fair enough I've been following your videos on YouTube as your car looks similar to mine and nobody seems to document a seat Leon cupra/rThanks
My wife and I are buying our house so money is quite tight, I'll be doing some smaller upgrades and will need to grab some uprated brakes soon. The OEM brakes aren't good enough in the dry, I'd dread to see them in action in the wet.
Thanks much appreciated. That's one of the main reasons I started to make the videos - there's tonnes of videos on S3s and Golf Rs but no LCRs.
On top of that, if someone buys a standard LC/LCR they can follow the videos, save hundreds of ££ in labour and get stage 2+ ready.
Im starting from the beginning, I've only had the car a few weeks and it is completely stock so got a blank canvas to work with.
Been working and saving for our house so not much has been happening on the car side, but we did get our new clutch in
The old clutch was slipped really badly and we found out why (we show it in the video). I went for the RTS Single Mass Flywheel & twin friction clutch kit. There is slight vibration even after 200 odd miles but it takes the power nicely, I've done a few pulls in 2nd and 3rd gear and it handles the power with ease.
While everything was off, the guys at the garage also replaced the slave cylinder and the release bearing - if your release bearing is bad, when you're pulling off you will hear a rolling knocking noise.
The old clutch was slipped really badly and we found out why (we show it in the video). I went for the RTS Single Mass Flywheel & twin friction clutch kit. There is slight vibration even after 200 odd miles but it takes the power nicely, I've done a few pulls in 2nd and 3rd gear and it handles the power with ease.
While everything was off, the guys at the garage also replaced the slave cylinder and the release bearing - if your release bearing is bad, when you're pulling off you will hear a rolling knocking noise.
So it's been a while... I'm happy to announce my wife and I bought our house, so we're back to being broke now 
I thought I'd try a small but very effective mod, which is colouring in the stitching on my seats and trim with Sharpies.. no joke. The finish came out great and it took a few hours but is definitely worth it. My whole theme with this car is black and red, and having the white stitching always stood out from the rest of the car, but now it blends in. At night it looks epic so I can't wait to see how it is in Summer!
Here's a video on our tips if you want to do this yourself or just to see how it turned out, with some before and after shots. More mods coming soon!
I thought I'd try a small but very effective mod, which is colouring in the stitching on my seats and trim with Sharpies.. no joke. The finish came out great and it took a few hours but is definitely worth it. My whole theme with this car is black and red, and having the white stitching always stood out from the rest of the car, but now it blends in. At night it looks epic so I can't wait to see how it is in Summer!
Here's a video on our tips if you want to do this yourself or just to see how it turned out, with some before and after shots. More mods coming soon!
So my headlights had the dreaded adjuster cog issue whereby you can't adjust the headlights aim up or down with the cogs. The passenger side light was facing down so it was projecting light 2 feet ahead of the car, and the driver side was a bit low. I got the headlights off and tried various things, all of which failed and I ended up destroying the headlights for the most part.
I thought I'd share the video because in the comments some people had some good suggestions, such as "
I'm wondering if you could've drilled through the white cog and the shaft from the top and knocked a roll pin in, then the cog and the shaft are one and turn together."
If anyone can make use of the video and fix their cogs it can save you a few hundred pounds. Other VW models have a much simpler design where you can just pull the old cog out and JB weld another piece on and it works fine, unfortunately the MK2 Leon isn't like that.
I thought I'd share the video because in the comments some people had some good suggestions, such as "
I'm wondering if you could've drilled through the white cog and the shaft from the top and knocked a roll pin in, then the cog and the shaft are one and turn together."
If anyone can make use of the video and fix their cogs it can save you a few hundred pounds. Other VW models have a much simpler design where you can just pull the old cog out and JB weld another piece on and it works fine, unfortunately the MK2 Leon isn't like that.
In other news... we've fully moved into our house and have ordered our new kitchen and dining room. We're getting a spider specialist in because there are spiders EVERYWHERE on the outside of the house, so they keep getting into my engine bay and wheel arches on the car.
Once these have been taken care of and the weather is a bit better, we're going to make a start on levelling the driveway and paving it so I can safely start working under the car again.
I've been speaking to a bunch of different companies and although our YouTube and Instagram is small, we have a few people we could potentially work with (just helping out a bit more than they normally would with advice etc).
What I'm hoping for in 2020:
New turbo - TTE420 or Venom 430 Hybrid (100% happening)
DevilsOwn Water Meth Kit - ordered and on the way, I need to wait til I have a few days off work to give this a go
Big brake kit - Looking at 8pot brakes, but they cost a bomb
Various suspension upgrades
New engine mounts
Depending on what happens throughout the year, if my wife and I get a daily I would consider stripping this car out and turning it into a full on track car. I would forge the engine and go for a big turbo (600bhp+) and anti lag etc. If this doesn't happen, I'll be getting a project car to turn into a track car. I'm thinking an Audi TT (completely stripped out, rollcage etc) because they're much smaller and lighter than most cars out there.
Once these have been taken care of and the weather is a bit better, we're going to make a start on levelling the driveway and paving it so I can safely start working under the car again.
I've been speaking to a bunch of different companies and although our YouTube and Instagram is small, we have a few people we could potentially work with (just helping out a bit more than they normally would with advice etc).
What I'm hoping for in 2020:
New turbo - TTE420 or Venom 430 Hybrid (100% happening)
DevilsOwn Water Meth Kit - ordered and on the way, I need to wait til I have a few days off work to give this a go
Big brake kit - Looking at 8pot brakes, but they cost a bomb
Various suspension upgrades
New engine mounts
Depending on what happens throughout the year, if my wife and I get a daily I would consider stripping this car out and turning it into a full on track car. I would forge the engine and go for a big turbo (600bhp+) and anti lag etc. If this doesn't happen, I'll be getting a project car to turn into a track car. I'm thinking an Audi TT (completely stripped out, rollcage etc) because they're much smaller and lighter than most cars out there.
I'm so tired, I had to read that twice. Yup, it's what I thought it said... no way is that a thing!?!?
If you go TTE420, I assume your going to do injectors + LPFP, etc for Stage 3?
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