What year is your car?
I replaced the offside headlamp bulb just this weekend in our 2002 TDi - a little fiddly but not the hardest of vehicles by a mile!
Nearside looks like it might help to remove the battery - guess I'll find out when that bulb goes!
Never had to reaplce O/S headlight bulb on my 02 Alhambra, but did do the N/S.
As 'techie' says remove battery cover and then you can 'flick' the headlight assy rear cover plate clip off and fiddle around to replace the bulb.
I found the hard part was getting the headlight assy rear cover plate wire clip back on. As I remember it was awkward/impossible to get any leverage on it to snap it into place. I used a length of wire, looped it through the clip and pulled upwards and to the front (or was it to the back) of the car. Apologies as havent got the car anymore.
Elsawin and 'Pocket mechanic' manual typically dont say anything about removing anything else to gain access.