Another Noob Question HIDS

waitsey

Seat Leon Mk2 2.0
Oct 28, 2008
94
0
Sorry if this p***'s everyone off, with another topic on hids ;)

I have the these lights "SEAT LEON MK2 -LED R8 STYLE HEADLIGHTS" so dont have the big box on the back like the orginal headlights did.

Which Hids will be best, i understand the 35W is what most go for,
On Hids-direct, it asks which type you want
35W Canbus Kit
35W Canbus pro
35W Canbus Terminator
35W Slim non-canbbus

Confused which will fit?

Yep probs a very noobish question but ill throw it out there :whistle:

Thanks
:p
 
Feb 24, 2010
378
1
London
I think normal canbus pro will do with the correct bulb size, the canbus terminator gets rid of a warning message on cars which are fitted with broken bulb detection or what ever its called.

So if you've got the bulb warning thing go for terminator, if not simple canbus pro, I think the rest are just different makes and names....

Maybe someone who has bought them recently could advise you better
 
Dec 28, 2011
1,250
2
Cairo, Egypt
Just go for the 35W canbus terminator kit, it's what almost everyone on here goes for. By the way, I have nearly the same headlights as yours, but by Dectane (LHD) not AutoArt (which is for RHD Leons) and I have a 35W canbus kit (not a known brand, bought it locally) and 6000K bulbs which match the LEDs perfectly, but I am going to be changing to 4300K soon since the output is better and doesn't have that blue tinge.
 

Deleted member 74601

Guest
Terminator is the one everyone else has on here.
 

waitsey

Seat Leon Mk2 2.0
Oct 28, 2008
94
0
Thanks guys,
ill go with that then "35W Terminator"
So which Bulbs? H7? Plastic Base Or Metal Base - Reflector?
And since i changed the headlights will these still fit with the new Hids connections?

Thanks
 
Dec 28, 2011
1,250
2
Cairo, Egypt
The bulb type depends on your headlights, mate. The stock headlights (original reflector ones) were H7 for low beams, H1 for high beams, and W5W for sidelights. The new headlights you have, however, have projector lenses, and if they're like mine, the bulb type is H1. You can just remove your current halogen/HID bulb that is in the lens and check its type.

Also you'd want a plastic base (if you're talking about the bulb) because the metal base gets really hot quickly.

Yes, everything will fit just fine assuming these are similar or identical to the ones you have:

ST-LN-5101-500x500.jpg


I am assuming the back of the bulb slot is covered by a rubber cover rather than a plastic one, though, so you'll still have to make a small hole in order for the bulbs' wires to go through and into the HID ballast itself - it should be simple and foolproof.

Can you please explain what you mean by plastic base or metal base? I've a feeling my assumption (above) is regarding something different.
 

waitsey

Seat Leon Mk2 2.0
Oct 28, 2008
94
0
Yea same lights as mine, and they have the rubber on the back like you said. It was just an option on there website for bulb type plastic - metal.

Ill order them up now m8 thanks again for everyones help :)

Ill post a pic once done ;)
 
Dec 28, 2011
1,250
2
Cairo, Egypt
This is my thread regarding aftermarket head light units and their alignment

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=364428

Just in case it may help you in some thing or another.

And this is how my current alignment is:

img2012100200032.jpg


Or at least that's how they were when I first installed the headlights.. (at the time I had 8000K hid bulbs thinking they were 6000K, basically the seller fooled me and I didn't check the label on the bulbs). As you can see, the kick-up is pretty high, while the alignment itself was low at the time, I have raised it since then so I can get a better view of the road ahead, pavements, etc.

Ever since I raised the lenses using the allen keys, however, the kick-up became even higher and I believe that they are a bit bothersome to people who are on the right lane (while I am in the middle) in front of me, not next to me. It kind of hits them in the left wing mirror, but I have received no complaints so far. I am not sure why companies like Dectane and AutoArt prefer that large kick-up as opposed to lenses in (most) OEM headlights which have a fairly small kick-up.

I am not sure, but I believe the cut-off and kick-up in your headlights are almost exactly the same as in mine, and I know that because there's a user here named Willz who has the same headlights as yours and he was sort of complaining about it. So when you raise the lenses (you probably will) take care of the kick-up or it might bother people or even fail the MOT test. Also although cutting a hole in the rubber cover in order to pass the wires is easy and simple, be careful because the rubber itself is very weak and it may keep tearing and the hole getting larger while you adjust the bulbs or wires or something.

So I was right, go for the plastic bulb base FOR SURE because it doesn't get as hot and you'll be able to touch and adjust the bulb using the plastic part even if it has been on for a while.
 
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waitsey

Seat Leon Mk2 2.0
Oct 28, 2008
94
0
Thats great mate, Yea im haveing problems with the light output. Driveing at night is a massive issue - i cant see a thing lol All the light hits the floor so i raised them and its alittle better. But light output is weak so Hids is the way forward.
 
Dec 28, 2011
1,250
2
Cairo, Egypt
Yeah, I understand your frustration, especially if you're using the very same halogen bulbs that came with the headlights which are very, very weak. I removed the HIDs for a while and used Osram Nightbreaker Plus halogen bulbs and they were magnificent; of course they are not as strong as HIDs, but they were the strongest halogen bulbs I have ever seen or tried.

Just go for the terminator kit (4300K is the way to go, but 6000K is fine too, in my opinion) and you'll get a great light output. Don't let the kick-up bother you too much, I've come to realize it bothers us (owners of the headlights) more than people around us lol. I am a bit nit-picky when it comes to output, alignment and such which is why it used to bother me so much but not anymore, especially after I finally came to the conclusion that the only way to eliminate or lessen the kick-up is to pry the headlights open and that's NOT a good idea.
 
Dec 28, 2011
1,250
2
Cairo, Egypt
Well when I first got the headlights I was very inexperienced with HIDs and such therefore I let professionals do it for me, but then I noticed I was changing HID kits and bulbs quite a lot and going to a professional every time was getting annoying, so I decided I would learn and now I can do it in less than five minutes total (of course that's if the rubber is already cut and ready for the wires to go through). However on the OEM halogen reflector headlights, I can only replace the low beam bulb while the high beam once was very tricky because it is in a weird, confined space.
 
Feb 24, 2010
378
1
London
Just go for the 35W canbus terminator kit, it's what almost everyone on here goes for. By the way, I have nearly the same headlights as yours, but by Dectane (LHD) not AutoArt (which is for RHD Leons) and I have a 35W canbus kit (not a known brand, bought it locally) and 6000K bulbs which match the LEDs perfectly, but I am going to be changing to 4300K soon since the output is better and doesn't have that blue tinge.

Let us know if you feel the difference of the light output
 

waitsey

Seat Leon Mk2 2.0
Oct 28, 2008
94
0
Got the Hids,

Tarek does yours look like this?

Black is from Car, White is to my lights
hids.jpg
[/IMG]

Hid kit wont fit that part
hidkits.jpg
[/IMG]




Help, im gutted lol
 

Jarre

Active Member
Dec 9, 2011
5,152
11
Stockton-On-Tees
Where are you based? Your profile photo looks like one from a car dealer on thornaby (may be wrong)?

The hid kit consists of the ballast and bulb. The ballast and bulb connect together. The only thing you connect to the cars wiring is the positive and negative spade connector. They go on the car headlight bulb connector.
 
Dec 28, 2011
1,250
2
Cairo, Egypt
Hey mate

Leave the harness (wires) in the first picture alone. Regarding the HID kit, yes that's what my older one looks like, the small black box you're holding is the decoder, which basically makes the HID kit canbus compatible.

As Jarre said, you'll need to remove the halogen bulbs from your projector lenses, install the HID bulbs, and the projector lens itself will have to wires coming out of it, if I am not mistaken black and red, and those connect to two wires coming out of the HID bulb itself. It's a very simple process but explaining every step will make it seem complicated.

So anyway:

1) Remove halogen bulb
2) Insert HID bulb
3) Connect two (black & red I think) wires coming out of the projector lens to the two (blue and black I think) wires coming out of the HID bulb.
4) There is a third, big wire coming out of the HID bulb which connects to the plug you're holding in the second picture.

And that'll be it.

Actually after looking at the second picture again I realized I am right.. you see those small red and black wires? There are two identical plugs coming out of the projector lens that you connect those to!

If you still can't figure it out, I don't mind taking a video showing you how you connect them and how the wires are setup, just give me the word.

Good luck!