Audi S3 GT3582R stroker Build (previously GT3071r)

[ReDBull]

I'm very interested in fitting WMI but there's so many kits, ideas on how to use it and potential problems I don't know where to start.

How are you finding the new VT mounts? I had some fitted last week and I'm very impressed with them so far.

 

[tufftybloke]

I like how the 'bodge' solution is probably 100% better than how most other 'tuners' would let things leave their workshop

lol... cheers dude, hindsight being what it is I don't know what I was thinking lol... it won't happen again thats for sure

I'm very interested in fitting WMI but there's so many kits, ideas on how to use it and potential problems I don't know where to start.

How are you finding the new VT mounts? I had some fitted last week and I'm very impressed with them so far.

WMI is as simple as a high pressure pump (current DO pumps as 300psi iirc), pressure switch, nozzle of some description, check valve, tank and some wiring...

Progressive controllers from most if not all vendors seem unreliable at best but depends if you are chasing numbers or just looking to keep everything nice and happy... don't go too big a nozzle, multiple smaller ones provide better atomisation and increase in WMI volume as needed... progressive controllers and lower pressure pumps (150psi typically) tend not to atomise as well until on full chat but considering boost comes on fairly quickly you have to ask what the point of a progressive controller is when using it with boost... airflow is a better shout... some controllers now will work with airflow from the MAF but the atomisation thing is still relevant... the 300psi DO pump might work better with progressive controllers and airflow as the lower flow rate should (in theory at least) atomise better than using a lower pressure pump...

VT mounts have settled nicely, feels connected but obviously there is inherently more vibration on idle from this kind of setup...

<tuffty/>

 

[Pimped up vario]

The vibratechnics engine mounts fairly cut out engine rock/slap but they're very hard to live with in a diesel engine.

 

[rae1001]

Any more updates on this mate?

 

[tufftybloke]

<tuffty/>

 

[tufftybloke]

<tuffty/>

 

[rae1001]

Ahh fully forging? This just for reliabilty or going for even more power?

 

[tufftybloke]

The engine is fully forged currently... OE pistons, crank are forged and I have replaced the rods... just decided on rebuilding the bottom end so I have essentially a new engine as the top end is all new..

<tuffty/>

 

[Nottz Fynest]

Wooow

 

[tufftybloke]

More parts...

Difference between the TFSI oil pump drive and the 20v one (top)

Block should be going off next week to be bored, will also be getting the crank pulley double dowelled... will do an initial build to make sure pistons clear the squirters etc then the crank, rods and pistons will go off to be balanced..

<tuffty/>

 

[tufftybloke]

Prepared an old tensioner damper ready for a manual tensioner conversion...

End cover and tensioner ready to be blasted...

Removed the TFSI oil pump drive gear (pictured right) from the crank...

...and pressed on the new 20v gear...

All ready to head off to the machine shop to be bored and crank pulley to be dowelled...

<tuffty/>

 

[rae1001]

Your getting it bored out? 1.9? What crank is that mate? New standard? Fairly getting all the work done there, be good to see results

 

[tufftybloke]

Basic spec is 82mm 9.5:1 CP stroker pistons, IE rifle drilled rods, ACL main and big end race bearings, TFSI crank, ARP main studs, ARP head bolts, balanced crank and rod/pistons, dual dowelled crank pulley, new oil pump, new oil pickup, new crank seals, new oil pump chain, new oil chain tensioner, new water pump, manual cam belt tensioner, new crank pulley bolt...

I chose 82mm for a few reasons (rightly or wrongly), no need for a special or NA gasket to accommodate the extra bore, I wanted CP pistons as they appear to get good write up and Arnold at Pag Parts swears by them, I couldn't get a lower comp ratio piston without them being custom to accommodate the increase in compression the thinner gaskets would have provided and I didn't want 8.5: or more than 9.5:1 comp ratio, 82mm means a capacity of 1960cc vs 2008cc and figured I make decent enough power on my current 1781cc setup... hindsight being what it is maybe I should have gone 82.5mm or even 83mm but meh... its done and tbh I am not really bothered either way..

I was going to rebuild using my current block but as a good friend pointed out it will make an easier swap and I'll be able to sell on my current bottom end...

<tuffty/>

 

[rae1001]

Sounds like a top spec. Ive noticed a few people on here running at a 9.5:1 ratio. Judging by the way you have done all the previous work it will be very reliable all the same. So does the standard gasket have a big enough bore for the 82mm piston bore? What is the standard bore size? Will you still be keeping the bay as oem as possible? Will bill be doing all the mapping again?
Will be good to try to understand all the logs etc once done, keep up the amazing work

 

[tufftybloke]

Sounds like a top spec. Ive noticed a few people on here running at a 9.5:1 ratio. Judging by the way you have done all the previous work it will be very reliable all the same.

Thanks

So does the standard gasket have a big enough bore for the 82mm piston bore? What is the standard bore size?

yeah, OE gasket is fine on 82mm bore, std bore is 81mm

Will you still be keeping the bay as oem as possible?

Of course

Will bill be doing all the mapping again?
Will be good to try to understand all the logs etc once done, keep up the amazing work

The mapping will only need a little tweaking I think... Bill will be using his emulator on her this time... bit more fine tuning and exploring of the mapping to do

I don't expect to be producing much more in the way of power tbh and not really looking for 'more' as such... there are a couple of tweaks and small revisions I am looking to do to aspects of the build... the sort of bits that you'd do different if you were doing it again so seeing as I have the opportunity to do so I will look at sorting those little niggles out..

I also plan to jig up the exhaust manifold with the aim in the future to build a tubular underslung manifold that should essentially be the last piece of my build... I don't intend to go larger on the turbo as tbh I am more than happy with the power she produces I do however aim to try and get to a point that she will produce that power consistently and at a sensible boost level...

While I have a 1.8bar map I can use I typically drive day to day on the 1.5bar map... would be nice to get to 400hp and 350 or more ftlbs at around 22-24psi and leave the 1.8bar map for dyno days ;P

<tuffty/>

 

[rae1001]

It definately sounds like it will be reliable judging by all your previous work on her. I would imagine by increasing the capacity, even if by only a small amount, would that give you more power straight away? Run at a lower boost level for the power you are happy with? It wouldnt leave any reliablity issues would it? I would love to have this knowledge to do the same type of work but i guess im in the best place for all the info

 

[tufftybloke]

It definately sounds like it will be reliable judging by all your previous work on her. I would imagine by increasing the capacity, even if by only a small amount, would that give you more power straight away? Run at a lower boost level for the power you are happy with? It wouldnt leave any reliablity issues would it? I would love to have this knowledge to do the same type of work but i guess im in the best place for all the info

Modding to this level inherently compromises overall reliability regardless... after all... you are taking an engine that when normally aspirated produces around 125hp and bumping that up to over 400hp... thats always going to narrow the window a little but of course its all very subjective...

These engines when built right will do this quite happily though and as long as its not turned up to 11 then there is no reason why it won't be reliable...

To be fair the only real failures I have had have been little issues like coolant pipes and stuff that just plain old...

<tuffty/>

 

[rae1001]

Sounds like you got it down to a tee then. The only thing that scares me with my ibiza is reliabilty, i know everything is done internals wise but still sometimes a little weary. Ill definately be keeping an eye on this, top quality work, and love the fact engine bay still looks standard. Hats off to you man, keep it up

 

[tufftybloke]

Small update as I am waiting on the block to come back from being re-bored (hopefully this week)...

Got a couple of items back from good friend George after a bit of media blasting to clean them up..

Before...

...after

Took the opportunity this weekend to do a full valet of the interior of the car and give her a paint protection top up...

She stills scrubs up well for an oldie

Hopefully some more news this week if the block arrives and some pre build checks before the rotating assembly goes off to be balanced...

<tuffty/>

 

[Pete225]

I had full leather interior in my s3 210 and I searched and searched for the baige/white suede and leather interior!! Absolutely lush!! Not keen on the blue suede though :|


Cupra R 225 -80mm Jetex Cone -De Cat -Forge Boost Pipe -More to come http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=380366