• Evo Magazine are looking for a mint and (and ideally unmodified) Leon Cupra Sub8 to drive and photograph for a feature. Find out more here .
  • Hey Guest👍👎 We're looking for reviews of your local CUPRA or SEAT Dealership - it's quick and easy to do: Leave a review now
These are the usual pressures for tuning:
before (after)
Golf TDI 90 hp (115 hp).......... 0,8 bar - (1.1 bar)
Golf TDI 110 hp (140 hp)........ 0,9 bar - (1.2 bar)
Golf TDI 115 hp (150 hp)........ 1,2 bar - (1.4 bar)
Golf TDI 150 hp (175 hp)........ 1,4 bar - (1.5 bar)
These are the maxximum pressure in the range of maximum torque, not across the whole rev range!

They say you can run a VNT15 safely at 18psi (1.25bar). Any more than that and it's bye-bye turbocharger.
Just by increasing the turbo pressures will get you 0 bhp over standard, you will need to increase fueling aswell:)
 
Of course, you're absolutely right.

You have to change the way the vanes move as well and the injection timing ;)

But we're speaking about the turbo pressures here.
 
Of course, you're absolutely right.

You have to change the way the vanes move as well and the injection timing ;)

But we're speaking about the turbo pressures here.
I know you are talking turbo pressures, but the figures you posted mean nothing, and are totally misleading, in a perfect pressure/fuel ratio maybe, but not to be taken as gospel, timing is not such an issue and neither are the VNT veins when we are talking of a standard turbo setup with only boost increases within acceptable limits.
 
btw guys, what's your opinion on cheap boost gauges from ebay? I've found something that seems quite ok for my red dials but once cordobabrendy told me they're not good cos they float a lot when the car is at idle,,, my mechanic told me tho that if you put a small screw into the pressure tube then they work ok,,, any opinions on this?
It is std practise to "damp" down a pressure/vaccum line that has a lot of low frequency pulses, you can do this by clamping the pipe and adjusting the restriction so a steady gauge needle is observed. As to the type of check out "boost gauge" threads in this site.
 
We are talking about a full remap, with changed fueling, turbo pressure, timing and VNT. The figures about max pressure are just informative and say how far you can go safely with a standard turbo.

And the veins ARE important. You don't want your pressure to spike like crazy, or do you?

I know you are talking turbo pressures, but the figures you posted mean nothing, and are totally misleading, in a perfect pressure/fuel ratio maybe, but not to be taken as gospel, timing is not such an issue and neither are the VNT veins when we are talking of a standard turbo setup with only boost increases within acceptable limits.
 
It is std practise to "damp" down a pressure/vaccum line that has a lot of low frequency pulses, you can do this by clamping the pipe and adjusting the restriction so a steady gauge needle is observed. As to the type of check out "boost gauge" threads in this site.

thx.
another question: shouldn't pressure change if I apply a restriction [screw, clamp or whatever] ? isn't pressure relative also to section of the pipe the air is passing thru?
 
Anyone know how to get a boostgauge working again after you mistakenly remove the front and the mechanism to change the light bulb, when it's actually just accessed from the back??? Changed the bulb in mine, put it together and now it doesn't move.... damnit, I always seem to break stuff I touch.
 
We are talking about a full remap, with changed fueling, turbo pressure, timing and VNT. The figures about max pressure are just informative and say how far you can go safely with a standard turbo.

And the veins ARE important. You don't want your pressure to spike like crazy, or do you?
Like you say this should be taken care of with a full remap, the only possible problem is VNT surge, which can be overcome if you dont use full throttle till 2k rpm, and if you use an MBC spikes will be kept to a minimum.
 
I am seriously considering capping the boost spike by using some kinda valve - set it somewhere near where it would be in danger territory so that if it overboosts a tad, the valve opens to cut the boost back quickly. Only catch is to adjust it in such a way that it doesn't impact max achievable boost :)
 
Anyone know how to get a boostgauge working again after you mistakenly remove the front and the mechanism to change the light bulb, when it's actually just accessed from the back??? Changed the bulb in mine, put it together and now it doesn't move.... damnit, I always seem to break stuff I touch.

Me thinks that you will have to trash the gauge unless you have access to a master pressure gauge so you can set the needle position correctly at given pressures - do you realy need one though co's most of the values are set up in the ECU mapping and if you loose pressure it will show up in a drop in performance??
 
Me thinks that you will have to trash the gauge unless you have access to a master pressure gauge so you can set the needle position correctly at given pressures - do you realy need one though co's most of the values are set up in the ECU mapping and if you loose pressure it will show up in a drop in performance??

I like it for the novelty aspect, but it does help to keep an eye on wobbling pressures that may indicate an issue before I really feel it. Just can't believe I broke a £40 gauge trying to change a £2 light bulb [:@] Hoping I might be able to tweak the screw on the back which holds the internals in place. Could be I've done it up too tight.
 
I like it for the novelty aspect, but it does help to keep an eye on wobbling pressures that may indicate an issue before I really feel it. Just can't believe I broke a £40 gauge trying to change a £2 light bulb [:@] Hoping I might be able to tweak the screw on the back which holds the internals in place. Could be I've done it up too tight.

I do have a master digital gauge that I could perhaps set it up for you [thats if you took the pointer off the sharft]??
 
I am seriously considering capping the boost spike by using some kinda valve - set it somewhere near where it would be in danger territory so that if it overboosts a tad, the valve opens to cut the boost back quickly. Only catch is to adjust it in such a way that it doesn't impact max achievable boost :)

The only way you will smooth the spike you see is by fitting a electronicaly actuated dump valve, this is linked to one of the ECU outputs which are available at a cost - motorsport developments near Blackpool used to do one [has several cars chipped by them when I lived up north - they do Nos too]
 
Run a Dawes MBC in parallel to your N75 set to the desired BAR you want which will eliminate your spikes.
 
Hello mates,
I just got myself a new 2006 LEON 1.9TDI, 105HP and I'm thinking to tune it but this been my first Diesel engine car I don't realy know what could I tune in it and where could I get the required parts/accessories for it.
Could anyone give me some pointers please?
Realy do appreciate it.
 
Hello mates,
I just got myself a new 2006 LEON 1.9TDI, 105HP and I'm thinking to tune it but this been my first Diesel engine car I don't realy know what could I tune in it and where could I get the required parts/accessories for it.
Could anyone give me some pointers please?
Realy do appreciate it.

Hi,

There are a million and one threads answering your question, but a very simple route is to look at this page:

http://www.allardmotorcompany.com/pages/products/products-cat6.asp?cat=6

A simple remap would see over 190BHP - search for Revo, Custom Code, etc...

T